How To Spend The Perfect Weekend In The East Neuk of Fife

Nestled along a beautiful stretch of coastline, there are few places in Scotland more picturesque than the East Neuk of Fife. Having grown up just a short distance away, this is where my family would head to the seaside and I still regularly make the 15 minute journey for a wander with Molly the Labrador.

Each village has a distinct character with its own stories to make a visit worthwhile. There’s scenic coastal walks, hidden caves, medieval castles and delicious seafood to enjoy as you walk between colourful, historic buildings.

It’s somewhere that deserves much more than a daytrip and the best part is that things are so close, you don’t have to do anything in a specific order! So here is how to spend the perfect weekend in the East Neuk of Fife!

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Where Is The East Neuk of Fife?

The word neuk is Scots for a small corner and the East Neuk of Fife is tucked away on the region’s east coast. It’s not an official region and people will forever argue about exactly where it starts and ends. For most people, the East Neuk encompasses the string of fishing villages from Elie to Crail.

There are local buses that travel along the coast here, but to get the most out of your trip, I would recommend bringing your own car. It gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and get to some of the areas that aren’t so well served by public transport.

Here’s the best place to find car hire in Scotland and if you’re nervous about driving here, this article might help you!

Explore Elie & Earlsferry

To properly kick off out perfect weekend in the East Neuk of Fife, moving south to north, we reach the villages of Elie & Earlsferry. With no real border between them, these two are now joined together although they were once separate burghs. Earlsferry is the quieter but older of the two with most visitors heading to the historic 18-hole golf course.

Visitors are much more likely to spend time in Elie on a trip to the East Neuk these days. It’s famous for sandy beaches, pristine streets with neatly lined buildings and its chainwalk. That precarious scramble is easily one of the most peculiar things to do in the East Neuk. Make sure you read this guide before attempting it!

If you’re looking for delicious local food, make sure you visit the famous Elie Ship Inn and sample some seafood or the Harbour Cafe for lunch.

Go For A Dip At Lady’s Tower

Before you leave Elie, make sure to visit Ruby Bay. As you explore the coastline, you can’t miss the strange hollow building perched on the small cliff there. This is known as Lady’s Tower, built in the 1770s thanks to a free spirited local lady.

It was built for Lady Janet Anstruther who loved paddling around here on warm days. That wouldn’t have cause too much of a stir if Janet didn’t like to swim completely naked! She was a notorious flirt but she didn’t want to cause any real scandals so nobody was allowed to spy on her wild swims.

Any time she headed down the beach, her servant would walk through Elie ringing a bell to let everybody know to steer clear of this bit of shoreline. There’s a wee cave built into the rock just below the tower where the aristocrat would get changed. Then after her chilly dip, she would recover while gazing out to see from Lady’s Tower.

While a swim at Elie would be a brilliant thing to do on your weekend in the East Neuk, it might be best to bring your swimsuit with you!

Shop Local At Bowhouse Market

A large part of travelling for me is eating and that means there’s one very important place to visit on your perfect weekend in the East Neuk. Just before you reach St Monans, turn into Bowhouse Market and prepare your tastebuds for a treat. This spot has been converted into a centre for local businesses to showcase some amazing, local Scottish food!

The best time to visit is during one of their weekend markets, where you’ll find a huge selection of traders. Even during regular weekdays there’s a reason to stop though. Whether that’s to grab a coffee and cake from Baern or grab some meat from the onsite butchery. Bowhouse is all about showcasing the amazing food you can find in the East Neuk of Fife and it does that job very, very well!

Visit St Monans Auld Kirk

The wee fishing village of St Monans is one of the smallest in the East Neuk, but good things come in small packages! As well as the beautiful little harbour that’s so typical of this area, it has one of the most interesting churches in Fife.

St Monans Auld Kirk claims the title of being the Scottish church closest to the sea. It was founded by King David II in the 14th century, but we don’t know exactly why. It’s an usually quiet spot for a monarch to take interest in, but there are two stories that might explain it.

One says that the King sailed here to pray at the shrine of St Monan, a 9th century religious hermit. David had taken two arrows to the face at the Battle of Neville’s Cross ten years earlier, and one metal barb was still stuck in there. As he prayed to St Monan, the arrowhead miraculously worked its way loose and the church was built in thanks.

The second tale is more practical, with the King washing up here after his ship was wrecked in a storm. Landing safely beside St Monans shrine must have been a sign from God, well worth building a church like this.

Maybe it’s a combination of the two stories, but either way, we can be glad this Auld Kirk has stood the test of time! It is occasionally open in the afternoons during the summer months but sadly not used for regular worship anymore.

St Monans Windmill & Tidal Pool

Just along the coast on the other side of St Monans, an easy walk leads out to what looks like a windmill. In truth, it’s an old water pump that when used along with the strange hollows in the grass below, made up one of Scotland’s greatest historical industries.

These are salt pans, set up by Sir John Anstruther in 1771 to create what was known as White Gold. He realised that St Monans had an abundance of the two things needed to make valuable salt – coal and seawater. As Scotland’s third largest export after wool and fish, it was big business!

The “windmill” above would drag seawater through wooden pipes into each of the 9 pans where coal fires were lit to begin the evaporation process. It took 8 tons of coal to make 1 ton of salt, so that goes to show just how incredibly important the end product must have been!

Sir John even built a horse-drawn railway along to Pittenweem where he improved the harbour on the basis that his ships got special treatment. The St Monans salt pans only ran until 1825, abandoned after cheaper salt flooded the market. If you’re brave, there’s even a tidal pool for swimming in the sea here, but you might need a wetsuit to handle the temperature!

Pittenweem Harbour

Of all the harbours you’ll see during your trip to the East Neuk, Pittenweem is by far the busiest. It’s packed full of commercial fishing boats that bring in hoards of delicious seafood every day. There’s even a lively fish market that you can visit if you’re up early enough!

Pittenweem is both a photographer’s and historian’s dream and if you could get rid of the cars then you might have stepped back in time. Some buildings date back as far as the 16th century with many more from the 1700s. Even the more modern houses are squeezed into the historic street-layout!

This is a place to spend a good bit of time if you can, just wander around the harbour with all of its sights, sounds and smells assailing your senses. Spend time in one of the cafes, pubs or just grab an ice cream to enjoy by the waves!

Descend To St Fillan’s Cave

This is one of the East Neuk of Fife’s hidden gems – St Fillan’s Cave in Pittenweem. It’s tucked away from the pretty wee harbour up the appropriately named Cove Wynd, behind an elaborate metal gate. This is actually where Pittenweem gets its name, which translates as “Place of the Cave.”

St Fillan is one of the many Celtic missionaries who spread the gospel around Scotland, believed to have lived in the 7th century. From the stories, he was either very well travelled or more likely a combination of a few different Fillans. You can find a village called St Fillans, another as Strathfillan and some think the village of Killin might mean the church of Fillan.

This cave at Pittenweem is one of the places with the strongest association, where the saint retreated to live as a simple hermit. To ensure that he could still read the scripture down in the darkness, God granted him a miraculous glowing arm!

That arm became an important Scottish relic, so revered that King Robert the Bruce requested it to be brought before the Scots army at the Battle of Bannockburn. The Abbot in charge of Fillan’s arm wasn’t so confident that Robert was going to win though.

Scared that it might be lost to the English after the battle, the Abbot brought an empty reliquary box for the King to pray over. However, Robert demanded to the Abbot open the box so he could see the bones for himself. The Abbot was in trouble…

Not brave enough to stop the King, he could only watch as Robert reached for the latch. Suddenly, the reliquary began rattling and shaking…when the lid was lifted, the Holy relic had miraculously appeared inside! It was a sure sign that St Fillan was on their side and Robert the Bruce led the Scots to victory that day.

If you want to explore St Fillan’s Cave like Molly and I, then head to the Cocoa Tree Cafe in Pittenweem, just up the hill. It cost us £1 per person to help keep with the upkeep and electricity for the lights. They do an excellent coffee and even better chocolate while you’re there!

Discover Kellie Castle

Step away from the coastal section of the East Neuk for a second and discover Kellie Castle. It’s one of my favourites, partly because it’s one of the most unappreciated castles in Scotland, partly because I used to work there! Inside, it feels like an Edwardian home, but don’t be fooled, this place dates back to the 14th century!

In the early 17th century, Thomas Erskine, a close friend of King James VI, purchased Kellie and it hosted the monarch on his only visit to Scotland after moving down to London. Unfortunately, the castle was eventually abandoned and ignored. The impressive decorated ceilings were left for the rooks and the owls to enjoy. The great hall was used by farmers to store their grain.

As luck would have it, Kellie Castle was given a second chance in the 19th century. Professor James Lorimer fell in love with the romantic ruin and restored it as the family summer home, away from the noise and pollution of Edinburgh.

There’s a very good chance that the castle is haunted. I heard plenty of unusual bumps, bangs and creaks while on my own there and a housekeeper I knew heard distinct footsteps above them one day. A guest of the Lorimers once actually fled the castle into the night after seeing a ghost!

The only ghost that we can name is Anne Erskine. She either fell or was pushed from a high window in the oldest tower. Her ghost, or sometimes just a pair of shoes, has been spotted running up and down the staircase. Kellie Castle might feel like a home, but I’m not sure I would be brave enough to live in it.

Explore Anstruther’s Fisheries Museum

Back to the seaside and to the largest, busiest of the East Neuk communities in Anstruther. Today, it’s popular for its many shops and cafes, with tables and chairs lining the street beside the harbour. You’ll often see a queue down the pavement for the Anstruther Fish Bar’s award winning fish and chips – Scottish food at its best!

Anstruther was once an enormously successful fishing hub, so busy that you could walk right across the harbour from boat to boat. The herring shoals disappeared and so did most of the industry, but it’s not forgotten!

I’d highly recommend a visit to the Scottish Fisheries Museum which looks small, but is like a TARDIS inside. As well as local history, it tells the story of all those who fished across Scotland and it’s so big, there’s even an enormous wooden fishing boat inside!

Don’t Miss Cellardyke!

When most people visit the East Neuk of Fife, they don’t even realise that Cellardyke is there. I like to think of it as the wee neuk of the East Neuk, tucked away and practically swallowed by its larger neighbour Anstruther. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a charm all of its own though.

You won’t find many things to do in this East Neuk village but that’s the beauty of it. On a sunny day, you’ll find Anstruther swarmed with locals and tourists alike. Trying to find a bench to enjoy your fish supper on can be a mission.

However, take a stroll down to Cellardyke and you can often sit on the harbour wall in perfect peace and quiet. On the way, you’ll see some of the oldest and least touched buildings in the area, giving you the best idea of what these places were once like.

Finally Reach Crail

The harbour at Crail is probably the most photographed in Scotland and you can see why!

This little fishing village is right at the edge of the East Neuk, almost the very tip of Fife. One of the oldest settlements in Fife, Crail features in early Royal Charters from 900 years ago although we know it was already well established by then. King Constantine I was supposedly killed while fighting Vikings nearby in the 9th century!

The fortunes of Crail naturally revolved around this beautiful harbour, the main catch being herring for salting and haddock known as Crail Capons. It was seen as on par with Leith, as one of the two harbours chosen to be allowed to trade internationally in the 16th Century.

It’s hard to believe in the quiet town today but the market here was apparently once the largest in all of Medieval Europe! The main connection and partner in trade for Crail was the Netherlands and the harbour was even built with help from the Dutch. You won’t many medieval buildings but you will find plenty from the 1600s instead.

In the summer, you can find fresh seafood being served down by the harbour to enjoy in the sun. There’s also the fantastic little Crail Harbour Gallery & Tearoom on the walk down there. The town is the perfect place to end your weekend in the East Neuk of Fife and somewhere that I enjoy coming back to time and time again.

Visit Robinson Crusoe In Lower Largo

I’ve left this until last, because technically it isn’t in the East Neuk! Found just to the south of the region, Lower Largo is another beautiful wee fishing village and it has a story that’s too good not to share! This was home to the inspiration for Robinson Crusoe!

Always a disruptive child, Alexander Selkirk ran away to sea after finding himself in one violent altercation too many. Then, in 1704, his ship stopped at a deserted island when Selkirk claimed that it wasn’t seaworthy enough to cast off again. He claimed that he would rather stay on the island than risk travelling. and the captain called his bluff!

The stubborn Alexander Selkirk was abandoned, hoping his crewmates would return. They never did because he had been right, the ship sank shortly after leaving him! With his few supplies, the lonely sailor survived for four years and four months before being picked up by a British vessel.

Not only did he inspire the famous novel, but his castaway home was renamed Robinson Crusoe Island and its neighbour Alejandro Selkirk Island. Closer to home, a house built on the spot where he grew up displays a statue above the door as a reminder of this local legend’s roots!

Walk The Fife Coastal Path

If you want to turn your weekend in the East Neuk into a longer trip, why not walk the Fife Coastal Path? Stretching 117 miles from Kincardine on the Firth of Forth to Newburgh on the Tay, it’s a very long trek! If you’re not bringing a car, then following the Coastal Path instructions is the best way to explore the area.

Your best idea would be to stay somewhere central like Pittenweem or St Monans and then it’s only a couple of hours to reach either Elie or Crail in either direction. Just be aware that coastal erosion or bad storms can impact the route. Have a look at this site to stay up to date with the trail.

Where To Stay In The East Neuk

There are no shortage of amazing places to stay in the East Neuk and I’ve split these tried and tested options into the different villages along the coast.

Elie & Earlsferry

Elie Beach House – With space for 6 guests and beautiful seaside views, this place is a perfect option to stay!

The Cupboard – This tiny place is perfect for a couple or family with kids and is packed full of character!

The Ship Inn – Very small inn with a very famous restaurant, well worth visiting even if you don’t stay here!

St Monans

House On The Square – Perfectly central, in a beautifully decorated historic townhouse, this place sleeps 6 comfortably!

Crows Neuk – Fresh and modern inside, this is another excellent location for groups of up to 6!

No 3 By The Sea – This wee cottage is better for smaller groups or couples, in a great location with a woodburner to warm up after a day by the sea!

Pittenweem

Merchant’s House – For larger groups of up to 7, the views are spectacular and the interiors beautifully furnished and well equipped for your stay.

The Crow’s Nest – In a similarly excellent location, with space for 4 and an open fire to relax in front of!

Seaspray – Sleeping up to 4 people, this traditional building right by the water is fitted out to an incredibly high standard. You won’t want to leave!

Anstruther

The Waterfront – A busy hotel just a stone’s throw from the edge of the harbour!

Harbour Inn – Another very good quality hotel, just a short walk from the water.

Shorefront Apartment – The sea views are excellent and the living spaces luxurious in this 3 bed apartment.

Merchant’s House – Sleeping up to 7 in a quiet spot but still close to the coast!

Murray Library Hostel – The budget option, but still comfortable and safe. There are bunkbeds in dorms or private rooms to hire here!

Crail

Sand & Sea Cottage – Just a short walk from the harbour, this beautiful terraced house is an amazing place to stay in the East Neuk!

Turret House – I’ve always wanted to live in a house with a turret, at least you can stay in one for a night or two!

Shoregate – This small hotel has a few large, comfortable rooms with a well stocked bar just downstairs!

Where To Visit After A Weekend In the East Neuk?

The East Neuk might be tucked away in a corner, but there are still lots of places to visit from here. It’s a very short trip into St Andrews which makes for a perfect day out. You could also easily keep heading around the coast to visit Dundee or into Angus further north!

In the other direction, you can never go wrong with spending some time in Edinburgh! Lastly, if you’re interested in harbour towns and the seaside, consider a day out in Dunbar!

Wherever you want to visit, consider doing it on a Scotland’s Stories Private Driving Tour!

If you want to do it on your own, then you might find a copy of the Scotland’s Stories Book useful. It’s packed full of stories based on real places around Scotland! Grab a copy of the book here!