The Dramatic Legends Of Dunnottar Castle – Beauty, Battles & Bravery

There’s no doubt that Dunnottar Castle is one of the best loved castles in Scotland and for good reason. Perched on a rocky peninsula, surrounded by the crashing waves of the North Sea, it’s the epitome of a clifftop castle. There’s a whole complex of buildings here rather than just a single tower, only accessible by one narrow path

The dramatic scenery might be popular with photographers, but there’s far more to this fortress than just a nice view. This medieval marvel is packed with stories of battles, bravery and barbarity. It’s a place that captures my imagination every single time I visit, with a feeling that never seems to fade.

How To Get To Dunnottar Castle

You’ll find Dunnottar Castle just a couple of miles south of Stonehaven, not far from the road up to Aberdeen. The castle sits out on a cliff, but there’s a car park with a food trailer just a short walk away. It’s worth pointing out that there isn’t a lot of spaces for cars there, so be prepared to either wait or walk in from further away.

There isn’t a lot of public transport to the castle, although it is walkable from Stonehaven in about 45 minutes. I would usually recommend driving if possible and here’s the best place to find car hire in Scotland. If you’re nervous about driving at all, this article will help you!

Alternatively, you could visit Dunnottar Castle as part of this small group tour from Aberdeen! You’ll also get the chance to see some more beautiful spots in the Cairngorms National Park. Regardless of how you arrive, the very nature of the castle means that it’s not suitable for those with limited mobility.

Quick History Of Dunnottar Castle

Probably the most famous castle in Aberdeenshire, Dunnottar Castle is thought to have been inhabited for at least 1500 years. That’s a very long history and it’s no surprise that this easily defended lump of rock was chosen for a fort. The name comes from Dùn Fhoithear, meaning the Fort of the Shelving Slope.

From its earliest days, Dunnottar defended the Scottish coast from Viking raids before being caught up in the Wars of Independence. Eventually, it was passed the Earl Marischal, the chief of Clan Keith. Any monarch visiting Aberdeenshire made a point of visiting the castle and it was chosen as the safest place to hide the Honours of Scotland (aka the crown jewels).

By the 1700s, people as important as Earls didn’t want to live in a cold, clifftop castle any longer. Dunnottar was mostly dismantled and left to the ruin that we see and love today!

A Pictish Stronghold

While there are stories of St Ninian founding a chapel at Dunnottar in the 5th century, the earliest confirmed reference comes from the 7th century Annals of Ulster. At that time, this was a stronghold of the Picts, people who once ruled the majority of Scotland, leaving behind mysterious carved Pictish Stones.

Just 10 years ago, archaeological work on Dunnicaer, another sea stack beside Dunnottar revealed this as an important area early on in the Pictish period.

By the 800s, the idea of a nation of Scotland as we know it began to form as a new threat emerged. Vikings were crossing the sea and conquering the north and west coast, with their eyes firmly set on the more fertile east. One of the earliest Kings of Scots, Donald II, was killed at Dunnottar Castle while defending against the Scandinavians.

Siege Of William Wallace

The year 1297 saw one of the most famous legends of Dunnottar Castle take place. Scotland had been rocked by the Wars of Independence and an English garrison held Dunnottar Castle. Legend says that William Wallace arrived with a band of warriors and a fearsome reputation. The English soldiers were rightly terrified, even a stronghold this impressive couldn’t keep Wallace out.

The English crammed into a wee chapel at Dunnottar, believing the Scots wouldn’t dare desecrate holy ground. Others took their chances jumping off the steep cliff. Neither option worked. Wallace burned the church with everybody inside and those who made the leap met a faster, but no less horrific death.

By the 1330s, Dunnottar had fallen to the English once more, even being visited by Edward III. In 1336, Sir Andrew de Moray, son of the man who masterminded the Battle of Stirling Bridge, won the castle back. Clearly, as impressive as Dunnottar Castle is, it wasn’t entirely impenetrable!

The Hidden Honours Of Scotland

Fast forward to the mid-17th century and Oliver Cromwell had his sights set on Scotland. He had destroyed the English crown jewels as a symbol of the monarchy, but the Scots had declared Charles II as their new King, crowning him at Scone Palace. Edinburgh had already fallen, so the crown, sceptre and sword, known as the Honours of Scotland, had to be kept safe somewhere else.

Dunnottar Castle was the obvious choice and to avoid any prying eyes, each piece was brought into the castle by Katherine Drummond, hidden inside sacks of wool. Regardless of the deception, Cromwell’s army eventually arrived on the Aberdeenshire coast to capture Dunnottar. The castle held out for months, but it was clear they couldn’t last forever. It was time to get the Honours back out again.

There are two stories about how that happened. Christine Fletcher, the wife of a local minister, claimed that she smuggled each piece out in three trips, right under the nose of the besieging army. A later story said that Fletcher lowered them from a window to the beach, where her servant hid them in a creel.

Either way, they were taken to her husband’s church at Kinneff and buried beneath the floorboards. Every few months, the floor was prised up and the Honours aired out to save them from damage.

Once Cromwell’s army had stormed Dunnottar Castle, they were told that the treasure they were looking for had been sent overseas and far out of their reach. Nine years later, with Charles II back in charge, the Honours were dug up and put back in their rightful place. It would become one of the greatest stories from Dunnottar Castle’s long history.

The Whig’s Vault

Not all of Dunnottar’s stories are full of patriotic glory, at least one is from a very dark chapter in Scottish history. In 1685, religious trouble was brewing and Presbyterians were being harshly suppressed by the government. They were known in Scotland as Covenanters, the term they gave themselves, but also in England as Whigs.

During wider unrest in Scotland and the fear of an uprising, 167 Covenanters were arrested and marched to Dunnottar Castle. They were held for weeks in a tiny, damp cellar now known as the Whigs’ Vault. Some died from the conditions, others during a daring escape, with the survivors transported to the colonies.

The Jacobite Risings

In Scotland, the period from 1689 to 1746 is defined by the Jacobite Risings, attempts to restore the Stuart dynasty to the British throne. There aren’t many corners of the country that were left completely untouched by the conflict in one way or another.

Dunnottar Castle was never besieged, but it was important enough to be garrisoned by the government in 1689. The Earl Marischal was still in command, but by 1715 the Keiths had swapped sides. The 10th Earl George Keith was a passionate Jacobite, leading his men at the disastrous Battle of Sheriffmuir. After fleeing the country, his title and estates, including Dunnottar Castle were forfeited to the crown.

Just five years later, Dunnottar would be sold to the York Buildings Company who began dismantling the castle. Anything of any value was removed, including the fabric of the buildings themselves. One of Scotland’s most historic fortresses, sold off for scrap.

If you enjoyed these stories of Dunnottar, you can find more like it in the Scotland’s Stories book! Pick up a copy of it here!

If you’d like to visit with an experienced guide and storyteller, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!