Exploring The Amazing South of Scotland With Literary Tourism
When it comes to stories, the South of Scotland is full of them. Even better than that, this region of rolling hills and Border Ballads has plenty of storytellers as well. The storytelling tradition is strong here, so there really is no better way to explore the South of Scotland than with literary tourism.
What is it about this area that caused it to produce some of our country’s greatest literary figures? Is it the landscape? Or the history? Maybe it’s just something in the water!
The South of Scotland Destination Alliance asked me to visit the South of Scotland – Borders, Dumfries & Galloway – to try and find out.
Hike The John Buchan Way
First up was a chance to follow in the footsteps of John Buchan, author of The Thirty Nine Steps and inventor of the Spy Thriller genre. Both of Buchan’s parents grew up here so he would regularly visit the South of Scotland. The writer spent much of his childhood being inspired by the landscape during regular trips to his grandparents.
If you’re feeling energetic, then you can hike a route between Peebles and Broughton that’s named after the author – The John Buchan Way. The hills aren’t too steep and you don’t have to hike the entire 13-14 miles either. I got the bus from Peebles to Stobo Kirk, roughly the halfway point, so I could hike back into town.
This is proof that literary tourism in the South of Scotland isn’t just about sticking your nose in a book. Up here, you’re immersed in the wild beauty that featured in so much of Buchan’s work. Wandering alone amongst the heather and the sheep, it’s easy to imagine you’re on the run from the authorities, in a desperate race to save the nation!
Learn More In The John Buchan Story Museum
If long walks through the countryside isn’t you’re thing then don’t worry! Back in Peebles, you have the John Buchan Story Museum to keep you occupied. Inside, local volunteers take visitors through Buchan’s life and visitors can explore the collection of memorabilia. This storyteller has plenty of stories of his own, such as paying his way through Oxford University by publishing books as a student!
Like many great authors, Buchan craved a life of adventure for himself. When illness sadly cut this dream of his short, he lived through writing novels and biographies of historical greats instead. Buchan wrote his classic Thirty Nine Steps while bedbound during WWI and the wild story became a bestseller. It helped soldiers on the front line escape their despair for a short while and became the first ever spy novel!
There’s a large section in the John Buchan Story Museum on the man’s later life as Governor General of Canada. To take up the role, he was elevated to the peerage and chose to be known as Lord Tweedsmuir, after a village in the area and the River Tweed that flows through Peebles.
If that’s not a huge nod of respect towards the impact exploring the South of Scotland had on his writing, then I don’t know what is!
Take The Waters At St Ronan’s Wells
The pretty little village of Innerleithen is probably best known today for the surrounding mountain biking trails, but of course there are stories here to discover. One of the earliest references surrounds one of Scotland’s holy men St Ronan. He was said to have grabbed the Devil and banished him from the land!
There has been a celebrated mineral spring here for centuries, attracting people to “take the waters”. It was said to be a cure for all manner of illnesses and even attracted Robert Burns, although even this couldn’t extend his tragically short life.
The spring got the Walter Scott treatment in 1823 when he based his novel “Saint Ronan’s Well” here. As the owner and a keen businessman, the Earl of Traquair saw an opportunity. He renamed the spring after the book, establishing the St Ronan’s Wells pavilion and garden which you can still visit today.
If you feel particularly refreshed from the special water, then take the very short hike up Pirn Hill. This is an old Iron Age fort and with the views from the top stretching out across the South of Scotland, it’s easy to see why. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a circle of stone panels, each carved with an image representing a different stage in the history of Innerleithen.
Explore The South of Scotland’s History At Traquair House
It doesn’t take a story expert to tell you that Scotland’s longest inhabited home is going to be packed full of tales. Traquair House has been around for over 900 years, being visited by 27 Kings and Queens in that time and still holds plenty of relics from their visits. A particular highlight for me was the crib of King James VI, left behind by his mother Mary Queen of Scots!
This isn’t a stuffy museum though, it’s still a family home for the 21st Lady of Traquair, Catherine Maxwell Stuart. I was lucky enough to get a private tour from the Laird herself and hear about the many goings on in this historic house.
There are plenty of authors, both old and new who have been inspired by Traquair and it was a particular favourite of legendary author Walter Scott. He lived just over the hill and would frequently ride across to visit the 8th Earl and his sister Louisa. It’s obvious from his expert descriptions that the house inspired a few locations in Scott’s novels – Tully Veolan in Waverley for one.
A favourite story of mine is the reason that every visitor to Traquair House enters through the side entrance today. That’s because the impressive bear topped gates are firmly locked shut. The family have always been staunch Catholics, even when it was a dangerous way of life, and therefore they were firm Jacobite supporters.
Bonnie Prince Charlie rested here during the 1745 rising and as his army marched south, the 5th Earl closed the Bear Gates behind him. He optimistically declared that they wouldn’t be opened again until a Stuart sat on the throne. That’s 277 years they’ve been locked now….
See Where The Bard Worked At Ellisland Farm
To really explore the South of Scotland’s literary history, we can’t focus only on the Borders! Head cross country to Dumfries and you’ll discover there’s plenty of stories to be told here as well, not least around Scotland’s National Poet – Robert Burns.
Burns spent the final 8 years of his life around Dumfries and that began with a move back to his farming roots. It’s often said that Ellisland Farm wasn’t a great plot for crops, but it was the prettiest option or the poet’s choice! It was a real tough slog for him to build the farm buildings from scratch and try and make a living off the land
Even with all the hard work he put in, Burns struggled to make ends meet. He took on an extra job as an excise officer, riding up to 200 miles a week around the region to deal with local tax issues. Ellisland must have been good for him though since this was one of his most prolific periods of writing. This wee farm saw the creation of classics like Tam o’ Shanter and Auld Lang Syne.
Ellisland Farm is run today as a fascinating museum, telling the story of Burns time on the farm. This place shouldn’t be a hidden gem, it should be a must see spot in the South of Scotland!
Spend A Night In Historic Friars Carse Hotel
During his time living at Ellisland Farm, Robert Burns quickly became good friends with his neighbour Robert Riddell who lived in the nearby mansion Friars Carse. It’s a peaceful, flat walk between the two locations and maybe you’ll feel some storytelling inspiration along the banks of the River Nith too!
Halfway along the route, you’ll spot a wee building called the Hermitage nestled amongst the yew trees. This is a restored version of somewhere that Burns would often sit and muse when he wasn’t busy with farm chores.
Friars Carse was also the location of a very specific form of inspiration for the poet. Burns witnessed a drinking competition between a group of local Lairds who were competing to win the prize of a ceremonial Whistle. An awful lot of claret was drunk in the process, which was immortalised in Burn’s poem “The Whistle”.
Friars Carse is now a lovely hotel, but you’re not going to win any prizes no matter how much you drink there….
Walk The Dumfries Burns Town Trail
Even after building the farmhouse, putting in the hard graft and trying to make Ellisland succeed, Burns struggled to make a good living for his growing family. Fortunately a promotion in the excise office allowed him to work purely in town rather than riding across the South of Scotland. The family moved into Dumfries where Burns would tragically die at the young age of 37.
Follow the town centre trail and discover the long list of places in Dumfries with a connection to the poet. It can take anything from an hour to all day depending how long you want to spend in any one place. The house where Burns lived and died is open for visitors along with the Robert Burns Centre, a real deep dive into his life and works.
Head to St Michael’s Church, past the statue to Jean Armour (a true hero of Burns’ story), where you can find Robert Burns burial. He was originally laid to rest in a simple grave in the corner of the churchyard, hardly fitting for Scotland’s Poet. Around 17 years later, work began to move his body to the grand, white mausoleum we have today!
If you’re lucky, then St Michael’s itself might be open and if you have the time then pop inside. You’ll see plenty more connections to Robert Burns, such as his family pew. Aside from that, the local volunteers are an absolute wealth of knowledge on Dumfries and things to do around the South of Scotland as a whole!
Dine In Luxury At The Globe Inn
Barely changed since Robert Burns’ time, The Globe Inn is where he drank, ate, laughed and sang. This was his favourite howff or drinking establishment, where he sometimes took the opportunity to sleep upstairs. He wasn’t always alone but I won’t delve into the details of that.
Today, although the building might be recognisable to Burns, The Globe has been transformed into a culinary sensation of the finest dining. The food is remarkable, but the real draw for me can be found on the Burns Tour run by the inn. Upstairs you can discover the bedchamber that Burns’ used, complete with poetry scratched into the window panes by the poet himself.
Downstairs, the poets chair sits there and unlike a typical “hands-off” museum, you’re encouraged to try it out. Be warned though, there are rules! If you make use of the Poet’s Chair, then you have to recite some of his verse or pay the forfeit – A round for the entire bar!
You won’t find a better place to eat while exploring the South of Scotland and that’s a guarantee!
Unlock Your Inner Child At Moat Brae
The last stop on my literary tour of the South of Scotland probably surprised me the most. Moat Brae in Dumfries is the National Centre for Children’s Literature and Storytelling as well as the birthplace of one of the greatest stories of all time.
This mansion was home to friends of JM Barrie, where they played as children and let their imaginations run wild. The large garden by the banks of the river became his inspiration for Neverland, where the boys would spend every spare minute playing pirates!
By 2009 the building was falling down, but fortunately, a group of concerned locals rescued this piece of history. Through years of hard work, it’s been transformed it into something pretty special. This is much more than a museum about JM Barrie or Peter Pan, it’s a place that fuels a love of all stories!
Hunt for crocodiles in the garden, hide in the Wendy House or climb aboard the Jolly Roger, before heading inside to explore vibrant scenes from classic stories. There are books to read, a tree to hang the name of your favourite story on or you can chase tinkerbell around the walls. On top of all of that, there are regular events taking place for everybody to enjoy.
If you love stories like I do, then you have to head to the South of Scotland, just to visit Moat Brae!
Open Your Mind At Crawick Multiverse
There’s still one more place to visit, kind of a bonus attraction. While Crawick Multiverse doesn’t quite fit into the literary tourism theme, it was far too interesting to miss out! This is a modern interpretation of the most ancient of all stories – the creation of everything!
Crawick Multiverse is an enormous landscaped site, designed to represent different theories from cosmology. The mounds and neolithic style stones represent the Multiverse, Universe and our nearest Galaxies. You’ll also find displays of meteor strikes and the navel of the earth!
This is more than just a wacky art project though. Crawick Multiverse was once an open cast coal mine and a real scar on the landscape. After it was abandoned, the Duke of Buccleuch wanted to do something different to revitalise the area. Thankfully the legendary landscape artist Charles Jencks was able to create this masterpiece.
It’s an enormous, dog-friendly site that really has to be seen to be believed!
Where to Eat in the South of Scotland?
Ramblers CafĂ© – I fuelled up for my hike across the John Buchan Way with a hearty meal in the Ramblers Cafe. Delicious food in relaxed surroundings and definitely worth stopping by.
Kilnford Farm Shop – You know you’re going to get a good burger at a local farm shop famous for their Belted Galloways! After lunch, browse the rest of the shop, including local produce and an enormous butcher’s counter.
A’ The Airts – Much more than just a cafe, A’ The Airts is a community led space packed with activities and workshops. This is a place where art and artists can thrive in Sanquhar. It also happens to be run by the nicest people!
Where to Stay in the South of Scotland
Tontine Hotel – In the heart of Peebles you’ll find the Tontine Hotel, a warm and welcoming place to stay. The highlight here for me was the food and I gorged on scallops followed by lamb stew.
Friars Carse – First and foremost, Friars Carse in the Dumfries countryside is stunning both inside and out. You’re sleeping in a piece of history here, but that doesn’t mean that it’s dated. The staff are friendly and chatty, the food was filling and the bar was very much appreciated!
This article is part of a paid promotion for the South of Scotland Destination Alliance, but every word and impression is mine alone!
0 Comments