Visiting Scotland’s Borders Abbeys
The Scottish Borders is a place full of history, culture and beauty, with something for everybody to immerse themselves in. You could spend your time exploring castles and stately homes, shopping in picturesque towns or walking in nature. Those are all great options, but if you have the time, then I’d recommend visiting Scotland’s four ancient Borders Abbeys!
These were far more than just dusty homes for musty monks. The Borders Abbeys are masterpieces of architecture and symbolism. They were intended to display Scotland’s place on the European stage as well as creatin wealth for the crown. Even 900 years later, standing amongst the ruins, you can’t fail to be impressed by what remains!
Historical Context For Scotland’s Borders Abbeys
It might seem a strange place for Scotland to build four enormous, rich abbeys – within spitting distance of the border with the nation’s greatest threat. They all have their roots in the 1100s, founded by David I, often considered the greatest King of Scots. The location is important, an attempt to prove that the Borders region didn’t have to be violent.
Unfortunately, David also seems to have been the most optimistic or delusional King of Scots. All four of Scotland’s Borders Abbeys saw a disproportionate amount of conflict. Two periods of history stand out, with the Wars of Independence beaten for notoriety by the Rough Wooing. Henry VIII of England sent his armies to devastate the Borders in the mid 1500s as a marriage proposal to Mary Queen of Scots.
Today, all four of the ancient Borders Abbeys are managed by Historic Scotland. There is so little left of Kelso that there’s no charge to visit, but the other three have a small fee for non-members. They can all be visited in one day or each abbey could just as easily be the focal point of four separate trips!
I’ll leave that decision up to you, but here are some stories to help you decide which of the Borders Abbeys to visit first!
The Important Melrose Abbey
Founded by King David I in 1136, I’m starting with a real bang with Melrose Abbey. It’s not the grandest of the Borders Abbeys or in the prettiest spot, but it has something that’s hard to beat. Not the bagpipe playing pig or rumour that Michael Scott the Wizard and his magic books are hidden somewhere inside. The real draw is that Melrose is the burial place of King Robert the Bruce’s heart.
The warrior King’s body is buried at Dunfermline Abbey, but even after death, his heart had one last journey to make. Bruce had always wanted to go on crusade to make up for his past sins, however, his position was never secure enough to leave Scotland. Instead, he entrusted his friend James Douglas to carry his heart against the enemies of the church.
Douglas dutifully carried the embalmed heart in a lead casket as far as southern Spain. While many of the Scots fell there in battle, their remains were returned to Scotland. It was believed that Bruce’s heart was buried in Melrose Abbey as he had requested, but nobody knew where. Then in 1996, a mysterious lead cone was dug up with the heart inside.
A memorial stone now marks the spot for visitors to pay their respects. Don’t leave without heading across to the museum for a close look at many of the old stone carvings.
The Peaceful Dryburgh Abbey
Not far from Melrose, but far more peaceful, you’ll find the serene Dryburgh Abbey. Unlike the other Borders Abbeys, Dryburgh is situated well out of the way from any big town, making it especially peaceful. The secluded setting and substantial remains of the domestic buildings gives visitors an insight to daily monastic life that’s usually missing.
It might not be able to claim Kings of Scots as its permanent residents, but Dryburgh has the next best thing. Sir Walter Scott loved these Borders Abbey ruins so much that he was buried here in a simple tomb. Modern Scotland wouldn’t be the same without the work that Scott put in. Nearby, you can see the even simpler soldier’s grave of Field Marshal Earl Haig.
Dryburgh Abbey might be peaceful, but it has picked up a couple of ghosts. The spirit of a young woman is said to wander between the grounds and nearby hotel. She had a secret relationship with one of the monks, who was executed when his brethren discovered their affair. The girl was so distraught that she drowned herself in the River Tweed.
Shortly after the 1745 Jacobite rising, a woman who had been made homeless took up residence in Dryburgh Abbey’s ruined halls. She claimed to be kept company by a strange ghost called Fatlips. Any time the woman was away, Fatlips would tidy up her makeshift home and stamp the cold from the flagstones. Sounds much more like a Scottish Brownie than a ghost to me!
The Impressive Jedburgh Abbey
The enormous Jedburgh Abbey was clearly built to show off Scotland’s wealth and it’s still impressive 900 years later. It was filled with Augustinian monks who were always close to monarchy and with the royal Jedburgh Castle nearby, this was no exception.
This grand Borders Abbey even hosted the wedding of King Alexander III and his young bride Yolande. While the ceremony went without a hitch, the afterparty didn’t go so smoothly. During the celebrations, the dancing nobles were stopped in their tracks by the figure of a ghostly skeleton. Without saying a word, the uninvited guest just raised a finger and pointed at the King.
It was clear to everybody that this was a terrible omen, but nobody could predict just how bad it would be. Within a year, Alexander had died while riding along the coast of Fife without an heir. Soon, Scotland was plunged into the succession crisis that led to Wars of Independence.
Situated so close to the English Border, Jedburgh Abbey was one of the first stops for invading armies travelling north. Through those Wars of Independence, Jedburgh suffered badly although it was continuously rebuilt a little better than before.
If you want to learn a little more about the town of Jedburgh, then don’t miss the Mary Queen of Scots House and Jedburgh Castle Jail!
The Defiant Kelso Abbey
It was once the largest and richest of the four Borders Abbeys, but there’s very little left of Kelso Abbey today. The abbey was founded close to the new town of Roxburgh, the royal centre for the entire Borders region. That brought a huge amount of wealth to the monks, along with plenty of conflict.
When news arrived one day that the Borders Abbeys were in danger once again, Kelso prepared for the worst. Refusing to lose their expensive bells, the Abbot decided to hide them in the depths of the River Tweed. Once the danger had passed nobody could find them again! However, when danger is near, the bells are said to chime from somewhere under the surface.
During one English attack in the mid-1500s, the town of Kelso fell quickly but the residents barricaded themselves in the abbey. The central tower became a makeshift castle as the invaders threatened to destroy it with cannons. Sensible heads abseiled down the walls and fled, while stubborn souls fought a losing battle in the morning.
There are only a few walls still standing, but amazingly, parts of Kelso Abbey were still used as a parish church in the 18th century. Much of the old stone was re-used in the town’s buildings, so look out for lintels that look impossibly old!
The Borders Abbeys Way
Want to turn your visit to Scotland’s four ancient Borders Abbeys into more of an adventure? You could always hike the 68 miles of Scotland’s Borders Abbeys Way! It’s a scenic circular route, split into five stages and ending in picturesque towns with plenty of accommodation.
Along with Melrose, Dryburgh, Kelso and Jeburgh, the Borders Abbeys Way stretches out to include Hawick and Selkirk as well. With good bus links, you could easily just complete one section at a time, or you could turn it into a week long trip.
Don’t miss some of the other highlights on the route such as Abbotsford or the Great Tapestry of Scotland. There are beautiful gardens to visit nearby or just take in the wild scenery across the low Borders hills. The Borders Abbeys Way is the perfect introduction to Scotland’s many incredible long distance hikes!
If this trip to sounds like something you’d like to do with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!
If you’re looking to extend your trip in the Borders, have a look at some of the Literary Tourism to be found in the South of Scotland!
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