How To See The Corryvreckan Whirlpool – Scotland’s Raging Cauldron
Scotland has a vast coastline, fringed with islands and punctured by sea lochs. It’s a dramatic place with spectacular views, said to be the haunt of dangerous monsters. I’ve spent lots of time enjoying Scotland’s coast, but one thing that stubbornly remained on my bucket list was to see the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.
It’s the third largest whirlpool in the world and when churning at full power, can be heard miles away. This awe inspiring force of nature isn’t the easiest to get to, but it’s well worth the effort. Good things come to those who wait and this year, I finally decided it was time to see the Corryvreckan Whirlpool for myself.
Where Is The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
You can find the Corryvreckan Whirlpool off the north tip of the Isle of Jura, close to the small island of Scarba. Neither of those are busy tourist locations like the Isle of Mull or neighbouring Islay so the whirlpool remains out of reach to most. Jura is home to just a couple hundred people, clustered around the south of the island while Scarba is entirely uninhabited.
The Corryvreckan’s remote location makes it all the more attractive and a real adventure to get there! It’s not something to try and do on your own, this is far too dangerous a stretch of water. The Admiralty pilot guide refers to it as “very violent and dangerous…no vessel should attempt this passage without local knowledge.”
When Is The Best Time To See The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
There are only a limited number of opportunities to see the Corryvreckan Whirlpool every year. It’s best witnessed on a Spring Tide, something that has nothing to do with the seasons! It’s the time around New or Full moons which mean that the difference between low and high tide is at its greatest.
The whirlpool is formed when the tide starts to go out and a huge quantity of water is quickly squeezed through the narrow Gulf of Corryvreckan. That speed of rushing water hits unusual underwater geology consisting of a huge 219m hole followed by a pinnacle reaching almost to the surface. If conditions are just right, those combine to form the Corryvreckan whirlpool.
Even on the right tide, you may not see a proper swirling maelstrom. It’s far more common to see what are known as “standing waves”, large waves of water that foam up and down but don’t seem to move anywhere. Trust me when I say that experiencing those while out on the water is still impressive and scary in equal measure!
How To See The Corrvreckan Whirlpool By Boat
The easiest way to see the Corryvreckan Whirlpool is by boat from one of the operators on Scotland’s west coast. You have a few different options depending on where else you might want to visit. If you’re already on the Isle of Jura then Jura Boat Tours leaves from the main settlement of Craighouse. More people are likely to be on a whisky tour of Islay, giving you the option of Islay Sea Adventures operating from Port Askaig.
On the mainland, there are two popular options to choose from. Seafari Adventures leaves from Easdale, one of the Slate Islands on a 10m RIB. Everybody has a dedicated seat with a good view of any whirlpool action.
The way that I saw the Corryvreckan Whirlpool by boat was with Venture West leaving from Crinan. Just in case the weather turns for the worst there’s a covered cabin section, although everybody was outside for the whole trip. While not exactly churning on our visit, the waves were truly enormous, dwarfing our small boat as the skilful captain navigated us on our adventure.
Leaving from the mainland gives you the chance to see other turbulent sections of water, including the Grey Dogs and Little Corryvreckan. Rounding the Isle of Scarba, sights of soaring sea eagles and sunbathing seals to kept everybody entertained until we returned to port.
How To Hike There By Foot
It is possible to see the Corryvreckan Whirlpool by foot, although it’s not an easy journey. There aren’t regular boats to Scarba, so your only option is to make this trek on the Isle of Jura like I did in January. That involves taking the Calmac Ferry to Islay and then the short council run ferry from there to Jura.
You’ll need access to a car to take you to the north of the island, but that’s not the end of your journey! From a car park in an old quarry, you’ll need to hike around 11km to the cliffs at Jura’s northern tip. It’s not a difficult hike, with a path for most of the way, but it does get boggy and steep towards the end.
As much as I enjoyed our hike on Jura, we didn’t actually spot the whirlpool when we got there! Visiting the island is still well worth your time and it’s a nice hike to do before warming up in the pub.
Legend Of The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
There are a few different legends of the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, but I think this might be my favourite and you can find it in the Scotland’s Stories Book! Either read the shortened version of the story here or watch the video below!
A Prince of Norway called Breckan wanted to marry the daughter of the chief of Jura, but the father set him a challenge to prove his love. He had to anchor his ship for 3 days in the middle of the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.
So with the advice of a wise woman, he made 3 ropes. One of wool, one of hemp and one of hair donated by the purest of Norwegian maidens! On day one, the wool rope snapped. On day two, the hemp rope gave way, but the real test would be the third line.
Just when Breckan thought he was safe, a single hair inside that third rope snapped and the entire thing unravelled. It turned out that of those maidens wasn’t quite as pure as she’d let on…
The Norwegian Prince was swept to his doom, but he wouldn’t be forgotten. From then on, the whirlpool that took his life would be known as the Corryvreckan – the Cauldron of Breckan!
It’s just one of many stories around the whirlpool. Another says that the Cailleach, Scotland’s creator deity, washes her plaid here every winter until it’s white as snow before spreading it across the mountaintops.
The George Orwell Connection
From legends of mythology to legends of literature, there’s another story connected to the Corryvreckan. Between 1946-1949, the author George Orwell spent a lot of time at Barnhill on Jura while writing his famous novel 1984. It was the perfect spot to retreat to, described by him as a “very un-get-attable place.”
However, the author’s stay here was almost the end of him! Orwell took a boat out in the Gulf of Corryvreckan when the whirlpool was fiercely churning. Straying too close, he was almost sucked into the whirlpool as it tore the outboard motor off. Losing the boat to the cauldron, Orwell and his son managed to swim to a rock and were left there until rescued by a passing lobster fisherman!
He had a very lucky escape – far better to leave the boating to the experts!
If you would like to visit the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, then why not do it on a Scotland’s Stories tour?
Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!
0 Comments