Visiting Islay For More Than Just Whisky!

When most people talk about visiting Islay, they immediately jump to discussing the island’s nine distilleries. However, don’t worry if a dram isn’t to your tastes! I’m here to reassure you that there is much more to Islay than just whisky.

Islay is as historic as it is beautiful, once the powerbase of mighty Clan MacDonald who have more than left their mark on the island. Away from the history there are sweeping beaches, clifftop walks and some jaw-dropping food!

If you’re looking to make the most of your Scottish island trip, then here’s how I would spend the perfect weekend in Islay.

If you’re interested in a tour to Islay with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!

How To Get To Islay

Before you can enjoy everything this Hebridean wonder has to offer, you’re going to need to know how to get to Islay. There is an airport with flights from Glasgow via Loganair, but I’m going to strongly advise that you bring a car to experience the island fully. That means getting the one Calmac ferry from Kennacraig in Argyll which runs several times a day.

The next most important thing to know is how to pronounce Islay! Drop the S and the Y then repeat after me: Eye-La.

Lastly, the unwritten rule when visiting Islay is that drivers wave to everybody! It’s known as the Islay wave and you don’t have to go overboard, but when you pass another driver, at least lift a finger in acknowledgement. It’s only polite!

Finlaggan – An Ancient Clan Capital

I’d recommend starting your weekend in Islay at its most historic site – Finlaggan. This tiny island in a loch was once the base of operations for the MacDonald Lords of the Isles. Their medieval empire stretched from here across the Hebrides, reaching deep into Argyll’s sea lochs and often much further.

This special place consists of two small islands in Loch Finlaggan, strangely inland for a Lordship that relied on its seafaring power. Most island chiefs kept safe in strongholds on daunting cliffs, overlooking a safe harbour for their fleet. Finlaggan was special though.

While officially these island clans paid homage to the King of Scots, in practice it was a long way to Stirling or Edinburgh. Instead, they looked to the MacDonalds of Islay and Finlaggan became the centre of a wealthy island kingdom!

You’ll find two islands here, Eilean Mor (Big Island) was once reached by a stone causeway. Inside were around 20 buildings protected by a palisade including a chapel and Great Hall. Most of the remains visible today are from a later farming township.

Just beyond this is the much smaller Eilean Na Comhairle (Council Island), originally dominated by a stout castle. Later, it became where the Lord of the Isles and his subordinate clan chiefs met and talked business.

A 17th century MacDonald historian described how 16 men would meet at Finlaggan around a great stone table. Chiefs of MacGee, MacNicol, MacGillevray, Macmillan and others witnessed charters issued by their great MacDonald Lord. Complaints could be brought, controversies discussed and the next great raid planned, all while MacPhee of Colonsay kept records.

Dunyvaig Castle – The Fort of Galleys

Of course the MacDonalds did have Dunyvaig Castle, a storm battered ruin clinging to the coastal cliffs, translating as “Fort of the Galleys.” This was the Lords main naval powerbase, its turbulent history only matched by its dramatic location. Just a short distance from the road, it’s well worth visiting during your weekend in Islay.

It’s thought that this mound probably held a prehistoric fort, but the first castle that we would recognise was built by Somerled in the 12th century. This warlord’s name has gone down in history and legend as the man who created the Kingdom of the Isles. His empire was then split between his sons with Islay falling to the MacDonalds.

Dunyvaig became one of the safest strongholds in the Hebrides, owned by Angus Og MacDonald who offered invaluable assistance to Robert the Bruce. This may even have been where the King sheltered during his absent winter of 1306!

Angus was rewarded and his son John of Islay increased his territory to control almost every island in the Hebrides. Not quite as powerful as Somerled had been, but strong enough to scare the King of Scots. That meant that by the 15th century, they were too much of a threat and Dunyvaig was forfeited to King James IV.

From then on, this historic fortress was squabbled over, the proud MacDonalds refusing to let it go without a fight. After a royal army pounded the island into submission in the 1600s, Angus MacDonald handed Dunyvaig over to Bishop Andrew Knox. Unfortunately, Angus’ son Ranald then scaled the walls and overwhelmed the garrison.

Less than a week later, Ranald’s brother (another) Angus chased him out, taking Dunyvaig for himself. Sadly, the MacDonalds couldn’t hold out forever against the government and were ousted from Islay entirely.

The Incredible Kildalton Chapel & Cross

On the south coast of Islay, not far from Dunyvaig, is the ruined Kildalton Chapel and its beautiful cross. The Kidalton Cross was ornately carved in the 8th century and there aren’t many still in this condition after 1300 years found anywhere in Scotland.

If you’ve ever been to the Holy Isle of Iona, then you might think Kildalton looks familiar. The style is so close to the High Crosses there that it was almost certainly carved by the same artist. That’s no surprise since Iona was the sacred place where island clan chiefs were buried.

It’s around 2.65 metres high, spans 1.3 metres across and has stood in the same spot for over 1000 years. 150 years ago, it began to lean and during restoration work, another smaller cross was found buried below, covering the skeletons of what appeared to be a couple. The male had clearly suffered a violent death.

We can only imagine the story behind the pair and why the Kildalton Cross loomed over them. Maybe whoever commissioned the piece had no idea they were there! These High Crosses weren’t usually grave markers, but locations to pray and for priests to preach the gospel. Scenes from the Bible are prominent like Daniel and the Lions, Cain slaying Abel and Abraham offering to sacrifice his son.

It’s a beautiful drive to Kildalton and a peaceful spot when you arrive, well away from any hustle or bustle. If you’re looking for a moment of calm amongst a packed Islay trip, then you might just find it here!

The Scenic Kilnave Chapel & Cross

An island as important as Islay needed much more than just one chapel. If there was award for the most scenic church in Scotland, Kilnave Chapel would definitely be a finalist! You can find it at the end of a short, sloping walk through a field, overlooking Loch Gruinart.

The cross isn’t nearly in as good condition as Kildalton, but made from different stone and exposed to the elements, you can’t blame it! Both this and the chapel have a very different feeling, with moss clinging to the drystone walls and the sound of the sea crashing nearby. It’s somewhere I’d highly recommend wandering to during your weekend in Islay!

Around the chapel you’ll find historic graves carved with swords and warriors, a stone’s throw from modern memorials. Swords and warriors are fitting, considering this was once the site of a particularly bloody battle…

The Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart

In 1598, Kilnave played a part in the Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart, the last clan conflict on Islay. Lachlan Mor Maclean had sailed into Loch Gruinart from Mull to demand possession of the Rhinns of Islay. Understandably, the MacDonalds who lived there weren’t so keen to hand half the island over.

Lachlan’s nephew James led the MacDonalds and since he was badly outnumbered, tried to negotiate peace. The Macleans could have the Rhinns for as long as Lachlan was alive, but they would be vassals of the MacDonalds. The generous offer was refused, battle was now inevitable.

That’s when a strange little creature appeared, usually called the Dubh Sith (Black Fairy). He offered his services to big Lachlan who snorted at his puny size and told him to get lost!

Furious at that answer, Dubh Sith marched over to James MacDonald with the same offer and was gladly welcomed. With a wink, the wee creature said to leave Lachlan to him and focus their efforts on the rest of the clansmen.

The battle raged all day, with the MacDonalds strategies working on the Macleans greater numbers. Halfway through, big Lachlan stopped by a well to refresh himself with a drink. That’s the moment Dubh Sith had been waiting for, firing a tiny arrow when the clan chief lifted his visor.

With their leader dead, the Macleans panicked and raced back to the ships. Around 30 barricaded themselves in Kilnave Chapel, but holy ground didn’t save them. The MacDonalds set the thatch on fire, burning the chapel to the ground. Only one survived by crawling through the collapsing roof and racing into the loch!

If you want to pay your respects to big Lachlan while visiting Islay, stop by the memorial to him beside the road where he fell!

Mull of Oa – American Monument

If you’re more interested by slightly more recent history, then you might want to visit the American Monument at the Mull of Oa. Even if the story doesn’t interest you, this is one of the best walks in Islay with spectacular coastal views. It’s a very short uphill walk until you reach a boggy plateau where you’ll be thankful for the wooden walkway!

The cigar-shaped monument marks a terrible tragedy from WWI, with two transport ships wrecking off the coast in 1918. They were entirely separate events, one in February and the other in October, both involving American servicemen. Around 600 lives were lost in the combined tragedies.

The first ship to go down was the S.S. Tuscania, torpedoed by a submarine and carrying 2000 passengers. Lifeboats did their best to reach the coast of Islay in the dark, with many foundering on the rocky coast. Bodies were washed ashore, both dead and alive, where the people of Islay rescued and gave shelter to those they could.

The second tragedy saw HMS Otranto carrying 1000 troops collide with HMS Kashmir in bad weather. As the ship started to drift helplessly, the HMS Mounsey drew alongside to rescue the passengers. The Otranto’s captain told them to stay clear or they might be lost as well, to which the Mounsey replied “If we go down, we shall go down together.”

Those actions saved 600 men, shortly after drawing away the Ontranto was smashed on the rocks.

Relax At The Beach

Feel like you need to get away from the history lessons on your weekend in Islay? Fortunately, there are plenty of beautiful, sandy beaches to lose yourself in!

In the south, not far from Port Ellen, you can find the singing sands of Islay. Walk along the beach and listen to the ground gently sing from beneath your feet. If you’re looking for a swim then one of the beaches around Loch Gruinart is your best bet. The advice is always to err on the side of caution, never go too far out and be very aware of the cold.

My pick of the many beaches would be Machir Bay on the west of Islay. A huge, sweeping sandy beach for the dog to run wild, although it can get a bit blustery! This is definitely not a spot for swimming, even for Molly, since the currents here are incredibly dangerous.

Visit Any Of Nine Whisky Distilleries!

I know I said that visiting Islay is more than just whisky, but I couldn’t not mention it at all! One day I might visit all of the nine distilleries, but for a single weekend in Islay I had to pick just one. On this occasion it was Laphroaig, mostly due to the timing of the tour, but I’m sure you’ll enjoy any one of them.

Islay is famous for its peat whiskies in particular, that’s the iconic smoky scent which some love and others hate. Laphroaig is up there with the strongest flavour on Islay and the tour gives an insight into why. The barley is spread out on a drying floor, where chunks of peat, cut from the nearby moorland, burn below.

Even if you’re not interested in sampling a dram or learning about the distillation process, the Islay distilleries shouldn’t be entirely avoided. The whitewashed walls with their tall lettering make for a picturesque view. Unsurprisingly, most back onto the sea which helps for direct deliveries, easy exports and sightings of seals right outside.

Visit Jura or Just Take In the Views

If you’d like to extend your weekend in Islay, consider hopping across the water to the nearby Isle of Jura. While the island really deserves its own dedicated article, you can’t miss it as you travel around its more populated neighbour. Getting there is easy, with a regular ferry from Islay taking less than 10 minutes to shoot across.

Three large, domed hills known as the Paps of Jura dominate the landscape, providing plenty of walking opportunities. Expect to see a lot of deer since Jura comes from the Old Norse for Deer Island. Don’t expect to see many people. There’s only one road and not a lot of distractions, but if you want to get away from the hectic world, Jura might be the answer.

Where to Eat on Islay

In my experience, Scottish island life means good eating and Islay was no exception. In fact, I had the best meal of my life during my trip to Islay! It’s not a huge island, which means that there aren’t endless options so book before you travel if possible.

The Port Charlotte Hotel – I couldn’t recommend this place highly enough. It’s my new favourite restaurant in all of Scotland, with food so local that the farmer who raised my beef was sitting at the bar. The seafood, oysters, lamb and beef were all first-class, not to mention the whisky selection.

Peatzeria – I’ll be honest with you that Peatzeria was fully booked when we visited, but I’ve heard from some trusted friends that it’s rightfully an Islay institution!

Craigard Kitchen of Ballygrant – For a hearty lunch with a smile, in a dog friendly cafe, this is the place to go. Perfect for a bite right off the ferry at Port Askaig or to refuel after a morning at Finlaggan.

Where to Stay on Islay?

Islay has plenty of options for all budgets, from hostels to hotels with plenty of B&Bs in between.

The Anchorage B&B – Excellent dog friendly accommodation with a fantastic breakfast each morning. A central location near Bruichladdich for exploring any part of the island!

Loch Gorm House – An incredibly comfortable Bed & Breakfast, also near Bruichladdich – one of the highest rated on Islay for a good reason!

Port Charlotte Hostel – Don’t be put off by the word hostel, this is an official SYHA location so don’t expect drunken party crowds. There are beds from £24 as well as private rooms to book if you don’t like sharing with strangers.

The Machrie Hotel – There are a number of hotels on Islay, but if you’re looking to splash out then The Machrie could be for you. Located in the south of the island, it’s a little bit of luxury including a golf course right outside!

If you enjoyed Islay, then there are plenty of other Scottish Islands to visit next! How about taking a trip to the dramatic Isle of Mull or exploring Scotland in Miniature on the Arran?

If this trip to Islay has caught your interest, how about visiting the island on a Scotland’s Stories Tour?

Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!

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