10 Of The Best Pictish Stones In Scotland

There’s something incredibly mysterious about the Picts, the word itself immediately grabs the imagination. Precious little was written about them and they wrote nothing at all as far as we know, but they did leave us behind something special. One of the most alluring things about these “lost people” are the amazing, carved Pictish Stones found across Scotland.

They come in all shapes and sizes, some carved into small boulders and others on enormous, carefully sculpted monoliths. The best Pictish Stones are found in the east of Scotland, from Angus through Aberdeenshire and Moray. We might not know what the strange symbols carved into these stones mean, but that’s all the more reason to visit them and make up your own mind.

Who Were The Picts?

Now that’s an interesting question! Before Scotland existed as we know it today, the country was split into smaller kingdoms. In the south of Scotland, the Britons and Northumbrians held power, in the west around Argyll it was the Gaels of Dal Riada. The rest of Scotland, from Fife right to the Northern Isles was ruled by the Picts.

The name Pict comes from a Latin term meaning “painted people” and was used as a slur by the Romans for the people they encountered on their invasion of Britain. To begin with, these were a loose collection of separate Celtic tribes such as the Caledonians. It’s not until the Romans start to retreat that the Pictish period really begins, from the 4th to the 9th centuries.

After Scotland was born in the middle of the 800s, the culture and language took a distinctly Gaelic flavour. All we were left with from the Picts were their amazing Pictish Stones to keep us baffled for the next thousand years or so!

1 – Aberlemno Stones

There are few better places to find Pictish Stones than in Angus and they don’t come much more fascinating than in Aberlemno. One of my absolute favourites, anywhere in Scotland, is found by Aberlemno Church.

Not only is the craftsmanship of the Aberlemno Kirkyard Stone extraordinary, but unlike most Pictish stones, we might know what story it’s telling. Long-haired figures face off against helmeted foes, with spears and swords, both on foot and horseback. It’s been suggested that the stone was carved to commemorate the Battle of Dun Nechtain in 685AD..

In the 7th century, the Kingdom of Northumbria was stretching deep into Pictish territory. They already ruled the Lothians, were pushing towards Angus and if things carried on, they’d conquer most of eastern Scotland. The Picts weren’t just going to roll over and let that happen.

They regathered and carried out raids on Northumbrian territory until the Northumbrian King Ecgfrith gathered an army to deal with them properly. King Bridei led the Picts, but at the sight of their enemy, his men retreated into Pictland. Seeing his enemy on the run, Ecgfrith gave chase, not realising he was marching into a trap.

Aberlemno Roadside Stone

At a narrow pass, Bridei put his plan into action and destroyed the Northumbrians at the Battle of Dun Nechtain. In the bottom right of the stone, a figure being pecked is suggested to be King Ecgfrith himself, the bird symbolising his death on the battlefield.

There are other suggestions for the location of the battle but its importance can’t be overstated. You’ll find three more stones alongside the road not far away. They’re all incredible but for me, the best Pictish stone is definitely in the kirkyard!

2 – Hilton of Cadboll

The Hilton of Cadboll Pictish Stone on the Tarbet Peninsula is absolutely incredible. However, this is actually a replica carved by Barry Grove and you can find the 1200 year old original in the National Museum.

It’s what we call a Class II Pictish Stone, carved with a mixture of Christian iconography and strange Pictish symbols that we don’t understand such as the large crescent and V-Rod. Earlier stones were carved with only Pictish symbols and those after are purely Christian.

As you can see, this stone is enormous and it’s in an area of huge importance for the Picts. In the middle is a hunting scene with warriors (wearing what look to me like kilts) on horses chasing deer with hounds. The largest character seems to be a lady sitting sidesaddle, but who was she?

She must have been important to the Picts in this area. Maybe she was a queen and this stone was carved to commemorate her or maybe she was the one who ordered it to be made. We’ll probably never know!

Thanks to Barry, we’ve got an idea of what the Hilton of Cadboll Stone might have looked like when it was freshly carved. The only difference is that we think they may have been brightly painted!

This Pictish Stone didn’t have an easy life. After standing near a small chapel for over 800 years, it had the cross-side chipped off and a memorial to Alexander Duff added in 1676. It eventually found its way to Edinburgh, while the old Pictish Chapel stood unmarked.

3 – Eassie Stone

In the quiet ruins of Eassie Church in Angus, you’ll find another Class II Pictish stone, dated to sometime around 700AD. It’s amazingly well preserved considering it was found lying in the wee stream nearby in 1786!

On one side we have the elaborate woven cross, with angels above and a hunting scene below. You can still see how the craftsperson has carefully sculpted the muscular curves of the stag. The other side is more of a mystery.

A Pictish Beast above a Z-Rod and double disc, symbols that appear on many stones but still without a firm explanation. A tree in some kind of tub stands next to it, tended by a faded figure. Below all of that, cloaked figures with a staff or spear – maybe warriors, maybe missionaries. Then 3 cows, although one has almost totally disappeared, and the remains of a snake or horseshoe.

But what’s the story here? I’ve not the foggiest, so if you think you can make sense of the symbols then be my guest! It’s a lesson to always keep your eyes open and you might even find one of the best Pictish Stones in Scotland just lying in a wee stream!

4 – Sueno’s Stone

Not all carved stones were created equal. If size equals greatness, then you’ll find easily the best Pictish Stone up in the town of Forres, known as Sueno’s Stone. Located down a cul de sac, this enormous monolith stands at a whopping 6.5m tall, weighing over 7 tonnes!

Like all Pictish stones, we don’t have any contemporary written sources to tell us what it means but at least with Sueno’s Stone we have some clues. On one side an enormous, yet fairly typical Celtic Cross with a coronation scene underneath.

On the other, an elaborate battle scene with an army arriving, followed by fighting around a fort. Finally, piles of headless corpses and horsemen fleeing infantry around the bottom panel. So which battle is it?

It was initially believed to be from the 11th century, telling the story of a Scottish victory over the Danish Sweyn Forkbeard. That’s where the name Sueno’s Stone comes from but it’s now believed to around the 9th century.

The sheer scale of the stone compared to others found around Scotland means this must have been something important. It may well even be commemorating Kenneth Macalpine “uniting” Scotland as its first King.

As the stone makes clear, this form of uniting involved a good bit of fighting. Forres may have been the place where those disgruntled Picts made a last stand before accepting him as their new ruler.

Another legend that seems to have grown from Shakespeare’s Scottish play claims that this is the location Macbeth met his witch friends. They have been trapped inside the stone and will be released back into the world if it’s ever broken. Maybe that explains the protective box which makes it very hard to take pictures!

5 – Maiden Stone

In the shadow of Bennachie, looms the Maiden Stone. It’s not the biggest but the story that goes with it makes it one of the best Pictish Stones in Scotland.

Not far from here lived a laird and his beautiful daughter, with an incredible view of Bennachie from their window. There was a collective disappointment from all the local lads when the laird’s daughter finally agreed to settle down with one lucky suitor.

Most had accepted their loss by her wedding day, but as the maiden baked bannocks that morning, somebody new came calling. The stranger struck up a conversation, even attempting to convince her to call off the wedding! He was charming, handsome and witty, but she wasn’t going to change her mind that easily.

With a cunning smile on his face, the visitor offered the maiden a bet. If he could build a path to the top of Bennachie before she had finished baking her bannocks, would she marry him then?

It was an impossible task, so to get rid of him the maiden said “Aye right then” with a roll of her eyes.

Within the hour, her bannocks were almost ready and she peered out the window. To her shock, there was a gleaming new path leading up the hill. The handsome stranger was running down it towards her and she realised now that it was the Devil in disguise.

Sprinting out the door and praying with all her might, she declared that she would rather turn to stone than married to the Devil! Her prayer was answered, transforming into the Maiden Stone just as the Devil caught her shoulder. That’s why there’s a chunk missing and she’s stood here quietly ever since.

6 – Mortlach Kirk Stone

Dufftown might be famous for its whisky distilleries these days, but this area was once better known for the ancient Mortlach Kirk. Founded by St Moluag in 566, this small church played an important part in a Scottish victory over the Vikings. Amongst the gravestones, you’ll find a Pictish stone that’s said to remember that conflict.

In the year 1010, an army of Danes had landed in the northeast of Scotland and began making steady progress deeper into the country. King Malcolm and the Scots rushed to meet their enemy, catching up with them near the Dullan Water.

Without any battle plan, the Scots immediately attacked. The slaughter was so intense that three Scottish leaders fell straight away. Malcolm was getting worried; this could be the end of a very short reign if something didn’t change soon.

He turned to face the chapel on the hill above him, fell to his knees and prayed. He promised that he would transform the building into a cathedral if St Moluag helped him to victory that day. Suddenly, the tide began to turn. The Scots were pushing the Danes back and the King joined the fray.

The invaders ran, with Malcolm catching and killing the Viking leader Enetus. In thanks to St Moluag, the King extended the chapel by 3 spear lengths – roughly 12 metres. That doesn’t sound like much, but the first Bishops of Aberdeen were based at this very church, so he had kept his promise.

The Pictish stone was moved here from its original location in a field next door. You might struggle to make out the markings, but take a closer look at the church gate to see it in more detail.

7 – Rodney’s Stone

Rodney’s Stone, in the grounds of Brodie Castle, is one of the best looking and strangest named, Pictish stones in all of Scotland.

Around 2 metres tall and carved around 1200 years ago, the stone has been moved, reused, lost and found over the years. Last rediscovered in the 18th century, it was named after Admiral Rodney who had just won a battle against a French Fleet.

Look carefully towards the bottom of the face with the cross – you’ll make out upside down initials, AC & KB. We don’t know who they were but it seems like the slab was used to mark a couples grave at some point in the distant past.

On the reverse side are three beasts and the common Z-rod and double disc carving. The top creatures look a little like Kelpies to me, while the animal below is known as “The Pictish Beast”. Your guess is as good as mine. Horse? Dragon? Some say it’s a representation of an Elephant by somebody who’s only ever heard it described!

What really sets Rodney’s Stone apart, are the tiny horizontal lines carved on the edges, almost like crimping on a pie. That’s known as Ogham Script, an early Medieval alphabet but the only clear word is a name – Ethernan.

We know there was a 7th century saint called Ethernan but whether this stone was dedicated to him or to another by the same name is a mystery lost to time.

8 – Clach an Tiompain/Eagle Stone

The smallest Pictish stone to make this list is known as either the Clach an Tiompain or the Eagle Stone. Found in Strathpeffer, you might just be able to make out a horseshoe above and an bird below.

It didn’t originally stand on this hill, it’s home was down in the valley below and dates from the 7th century. For a long time people believed it marked the grave of Munro clansmen, killed in a 15th century battle. That obviously couldn’t have been the original purpose, but maybe the Munros recycled it!

Another legend ties the Eagle Stone to Coinneach Odhar otherwise known as the Brahan Seer. He was a mysterious prophet from around the 17th century with many of his predictions having come true.

The Seer declared that if the Eagle Stone fell three times, then ships will be able to sail all the way to Strathpeffer and anchor on it. Apparently it’s fallen twice already but it seems to be standing firm now, fixed in a cement base.

That’s good news for all the people living in the roughly 6 miles between the Eagle Stone and where the Cromarty Firth ends at the moment!

9 – Meffan Museum

You might not want to traipse around Scotland looking for the best Pictish Stones but thankfully you have another option. There are collections in lots of local museums as well as the National Museum in Edinburgh. My pick of all of these is the Meffan Museum in Forfar.

Conservation groups have difficult decisions around these important historic monuments. Some are in glass cases and others protected by fiberglass boxes during the winter months. Is it best to limit how well visitors can see them but ensure they can remain out in the wild?

The Meffan has done the opposite. Amongst other fascinating exhibits such as a stone burial cist and 1000 year old log boat, are a collection of carved Pictish stones. Safely indoors and with perfect lighting, we can see the shapes and symbols much easier.

10 – Wemyss Caves

The last Pictish stone location is a little different, since it isn’t actually a stone at all!

Hidden along the Fife coast are an extraordinary series of caves that contain the most concentrated collection of Pictish carvings in the world. They’re known as the Wemyss Caves (Wemyss actually coming for the Gaelic word for cave) and you can find a handy car park at East Wemyss.

The sea was a good source of food for early inhabitants of Scotland so it makes sense that ready made caves like these would have been lived in long ago. The TV program Time Team excavated here and found that these have likely been inhabited since at least the Iron Age.

The caves all have different, modern names like Doo cave which has dozens of pigeon nests carved out to provide meat for nearby Macduff’s Castle. Court Cave and Well Cave both have castle connections as well but these are just local legends of hidden tunnels to the surface.

Most of the Pictish carvings are concentrated in Jonathan’s Cave. There are fish, horses, double discs and what they think is the earliest picture of a Viking longship, although that one’s not so easy to find. Head towards the back right, up near eye level and you’ll hopefully spot it!

Unfortunately you will need to look between the modern day graffiti to see the ancient symbols, it can be difficult to figure out which are authentic and which are more recent. But that did make me wonder – at what point does it stop being graffiti and start being historical art?

If you want to visit Wemyss Caves then be aware that they are sometimes locked up tight. There are keys available in return for a deposit so check the website here for the most up to date locations.

If you have an interest in Pictish stones and want to visit some on a tour around Scotland then get in touch here for Scotland’s Stories Guided Tours!

Loved reading about the best Pictish Stones in Scotland? Then you might enjoy discovering some of Scotland’s great standing stones as well!

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