Guide To Roslin: More Than Just Rosslyn Chapel

If you’re looking for a daytrip from Edinburgh or somewhere to visit after exploring the Borders, then this guide to Roslin is for you. Many have heard of Rosslyn Chapel, attracting thousands of visitors annually thanks to the Da Vinci Code. The carvings inside are fantastic, so I don’t blame anybody for being immediately drawn there.

However, most visitors have no idea that Roslin is much more than just a chapel. Only a few minutes away, hidden below the village, is a fascinating little glen. It’s one of Scotland’s best kept secrets, where you can discover hidden castles and stories of forgotten battles.

How To Get To Roslin

The village is located just to the south of Edinburgh and getting to Roslin is simple. If you’re driving then you’re going south off the city bypass at the Straiton Junction where you’ll see signs for Roslin. Large car parks are available both at the Chapel and in the Country Park below.

You can still get to Roslin by public transport, there’s a regular bus from Edinburgh. You can jump on the number 37 which stops on Princes Street and should take around an hour to arrive.

Secrets Of Rosslyn Chapel

There’s no better place to start your visit to Roslin than at Rosslyn Chapel. It gets plenty of hype but deserves all of it, definitely somewhere not to miss. The building was started by William Sinclair in 1446 and was originally intended to be much larger, it took a whole 40 years just to get to this stage! Inside you’ll find plenty of mysteries and for in depth detail then read this guide to Rosslyn Chapel’s secrets!

There’s plenty to see, but the most famous story of Rosslyn Chapel surrounds the beautiful Apprentice Pillar. William Sinclair wanted a very specific pillar carved and his Master mason was stunned by the design. It was unbelievably ornate. Worried about replicating something so delicate, the craftsman claimed that he must travel to Italy to see the original.

However, while he was gone his Apprentice looked at the sketch and being confident in his own abilities, set to work. When the Master returned after months away, he was faced with the perfectly finished pillar we can see today. Enraged at being eclipsed by his own Apprentice, he picked up his hammer he struck out, crushing the boy’s skull.

The Master was executed for his crime and as an extra punishment, his face was carved into the chapel wall opposite. His likeness forced to look at the incredible Apprentice Pillar for the rest of time. Nobody knows if the story is true, but it’s just one of the many mysteries found covering every inch of Rosslyn Chapel.

With tales of Templars, symbols from unknown lands and stories of hidden vaults, you won’t be short of things to keep you occupied. To visit Rosslyn Chapel, you’re best to book tickets ahead here to guarantee a timed entry.

Discover Roslin Castle’s Stories

If you can tear yourself away from the chapel, there are more things to see in Roslin, hidden amongst the trees below. The most impressive is undoubtedly Roslin Castle, but even once you’ve entered the woods it isn’t immediately obvious. Through the trees, cross a narrow, high footbridge, then follow the path forking left.

Climb the steps to get the classic view of Roslin Castle, built on a rock above the winding river. The impressive archway would originally have been a drawbridge and with it raised, there’s no easy way in. That small building atop the rock can actually be rented as a holiday cottage!

It doesn’t look like much, but don’t leave before heading back down the hill and under the impressive archway. That’s where you’ll find the rest of the castle remains, built into the side of the cliff!

Just like the chapel, Roslin Castle was built by the Sinclair Earls, a family surrounded by myth and legend. It’s said that during a fire in the 15th century, the Earl panicked about losing his library. He forced his chaplain back in to lower baskets of books down from a window as the halls burned around him.

Around 400 years later, an Italian descendant of the provost of Roslin arrived at the ruined castle. Allegedly following instructions from his ancestor, he discovered a secret room full of ancient manuscripts, hidden during the Reformation. The story claims he took them to Italy where they were hidden once again, this time in the Vatican library.

Legend says that there’s one more secret hidden amongst the ruins. Stand on the right step of the right staircase, blow a horn and a sleeping lady will awaken as a guide to Roslin Castle’s treasure. Maybe that treasure is the Holy Grail itself.

Explore Roslin’s Forgotten Battle

As you explore Roslin Glen, imagine thousands of warriors marching past and the clash of battle in the air. The almost forgotten Battle of Roslin took place in 1303, with chronicles claiming 30,000 English soldiers camped near Roslin, split into three groups.

They believed themselves safe with no Scots army nearby, but John Comyn led 8000 horsemen overnight to surprise them. Seeing a similarly sized force still napping, the Scots charged and after a fierce fight, overcame the English camp. Comyn must have thought they had won the day!

That was when the second English camp arrived and the Scots retreated to defend a steep bank near a stream. The fighting was harder, but still Comyn’s army broke their opponents. After marching all night and winning two battles, there was no time to rest as the third army approached.

One story claims local priests created a saltire of sheets on the hill to inspire the weary Scots. True or not, the Scottish army roused itself and won their third victory of the day. One of the largest English armies ever seen in Scotland was sent home at a fraction of its original size.

If the figures are true then this was an enormous victory, bigger than Bannockburn! However, Robert the Bruce had murdered John Comyn on his way to the throne in 1306. All of Comyn’s achievements were played down but there’s now a monument to the battle just north of the village.

We don’t know exactly where it took place, but evidence can still be seen on maps today. The “Kill” burn which ran red for three days, “Shinbane” field where human bones were being ploughed up years later and “Hewan” bog where the Scots hew down their enemies.

Roslin Gunpowder Mill

Anybody on the hunt for Outlander filming locations has no doubt come across the Roslin Gunpowder Mill. This was the scene of an intense argument between Jamie & Claire in Season 1 after the rescue from Fort William. Off course, it does have its own history to share. Not quite as old as the show’s storyline, it was in use from the early 1800s right up to 1954, a whopping 150 years.

Located next to the river, Roslin’s gunpowder factory started off powered by a watermill with the buildings set into the hillside for safety. The idea was that any blast would be directed upwards instead of out. Steam power was eventually added to increase production and it was an important source of local employment.

In the decades that followed the Jacobite risings, many Scots joined the British Army as their only option, becoming elite soldiers. The powder created here would have been put to use in the Napoleonic Wars, across the Empire and in both World Wars. An incredible impact from this tiny site that’s so easily missed by anybody visiting Roslin Glen.

To get to Roslin Gunpowder Factory, you’ll need to walk along the road for a small section into a second entrance to the country park. You could always use these instructions to turn it into a circular walk!

Bonus Location – Old Temple Kirk

I know this is a guide to Roslin, but if you’re driving or cycling then the short journey to Old Temple Kirk is worth it. There’s still a connection to the chapel, since this place actually was home to the Knights Templar!

This order of warriors spread across Europe to influential countries where they could muster new recruits. That quest brought them to a Scotland ruled by King David I. He granted the Knights Templar this little fertile patch of land, originally known as Balantrodach – “The Town of the Warriors.”

In the early 14^th century, the Templars had hit a rough patch. The French King owed them an awful lot of money that he couldn’t pay back. In 1307, any Templars in France were suddenly arrested and the Pope ordered all Christian Kings to follow suit. The few who remained needed somewhere safe and the story goes that they came to Scotland.

Robert the Bruce had been excommunicated, so he had no need to follow the Pope’s command. Some believe that they brought their greatest treasure along with them – The Holy Grail. A local rhyme even gives away its possible location:

“Twixt the oak and the elm tree, you will find buried the millions free”

Unfortunately, there are no Oaks or Elms in Temple dating back 700 years so maybe the clue has been lost. However, there’s still a chance that the Holy Grail or a fortune in Templar gold is lying buried somewhere in Midlothian!

If you enjoyed this Guide to Roslin, then you might also enjoy a daytrip to St Andrews!

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