How To Fly To Barra – Landing On The World’s Only Beach Runway!

If you’re looking for a truly unique experience in Scotland, I’d recommend that you fly to Barra! The tiny airport there is the only one in the world with a beach runway. Even if the novelty of landing on the sand doesn’t interest you, the views of the islands from the plane are worth the trip!

If you want all the full details about this incredible Scottish island, then read this article about Things To Do In Barra. This is designed to take the stress out of organising a trip flying to Barra by following in our footsteps. We were short on time so only spend one night, but if you can then I’d definitely recommend aiming for longer!

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How To Fly To Barra

There are regular flights to Barra from Glasgow, usually two a day in each direction. They take just over an hour and while the cost changes depending on availability, it’s usually between £90-150 each way. Be very aware that flights can get cancelled due to weather conditions so you’ll need a backup plan.

We had planned to fly to Barra last year, but due to heavy fog on the island, pilots wouldn’t see the beach runway. It meant that I had to quickly come up with something new and thankfully we’re blessed in Scotland with good options. If this happens to you, consider following in our footsteps with a short drive and a ferry to the Incredible Isle of Bute!

There are only 15 seats inside the small Twin Otter plane and not a lot of space. If you’re carrying anything bigger than a small backpack then you’ll need to check it in. Don’t worry, baggage reclaim at Barra Airport is probably the easiest in the world!

Every row has a window, but obviously those in the middle will need to stretch to get a view. I’d recommend sitting in the single seats on the left hand side, but both are worthwhile. It meant that on the way out we had great views of Mull and Coll then on the way there, then Loch Awe, Fyne and Lomond on the return.

Landing At The Beach On Barra

The biggest reason that people want to fly here is just so that they can land on the beach at Barra! This is the only airport in the world that uses a beach runway for its scheduled flights. There’s actually three marked out on the sand depending on which way the wind is blowing!

The views are incredible as you pass over Mull, Coll, Tiree and the skerries as you reach Barra. Landing on the beach is far smoother than tarmac, even when there’s a bit of a splash. At high tide, the beach is completely covered by water!

Once you’re off the plane, it’s a very short and sandy walk to the airport terminal. It’s an internal flight so there’s no customs or security and the airport is literally one big room so you can’t get lost! The return flight to Glasgow will leave around 20 minutes later if you want to watch that and the next one will probably land a couple of hours later!

Hiring Transport On Barra

While it isn’t a large island, if you’re flying to Barra you’ll still need some transport to get around! Fortunately, there is car hire on Barra, which means you can easily collect your keys and get exploring. If you’re only exploring this one island then call 01871 890313 for Barra Car Hire. Once you land, they’ll meet you with the keys and to talk you through the vehicle!

If you’re planning an island hopping trip through the Outer Hebrides then contact Car Hire Hebrides instead. They have a one way trip service so you can drop off at Stornoway airport at the end of your adventure!

If you’re nervous about driving, then this article about how to drive in Scotland will help a lot. There’s even an online driving course that you can take to make things easier once you’re here!

There’s also an option for active people to hire bicycles on Barra instead. It’s a great way to explore without having to worry about parking spaces! Barra Bike Hire has options for adult/teen/child as well as normal or e-bike!

Grab Lunch In The Airport

Obviously it depends on what time you arrive, but if you have the chance then definitely get lunch in the Barra airport cafe. That might sound a bit odd, but it’s easily one of the best lunches I’ve ever had! As well as the typical soups and toasties that looked fantastic, it was the specials board that caught my eye.

One of our group had an incredible local lamb pie, while I settled for a fish dish. When you’re on an island, it’s always worth trying the seafood! Smoked mackerel and an egg on sourdough toast with leafy greend and herby stuff. It was unbelievably good, although it did take some time so don’t order right before your flight!

Visit Cille Bharra

Once we picked our car up, it was a very short drive north to visit Cille Bharra. Most people will immediately head south, but this is somewhere that shouldn’t be missed! There’s been an important religious site here since the 7th century, although the oldest ruins we see today are from the 1100s.

It’s dedicated to St Barr, the man that the island of Barra is thought to be named after! As you stand there, it’s amazing to think that this graveyard has been used for over 1000 years. The only roofed building is the North Chapel and I was delighted to find that the door was unlocked.

Inside feels like a very special place. As churches go, it’s small, but it packs a big historical punch. You’ll find elaborate carved graveslabs from the 14th or 15th centuries. While they don’t have names, they are most likely for prominent members of Clan MacNeil.

However, it’s the smallest stone that’s the most fascinating. It’s a copy of the Kilbar stone, the real one sitting in the National Museum of Scotland. On one side of the stone, a beautiful cross is surrounded by an elaborate carved design. On the reverse, a runic inscription states “After Thorgerth, Steiner’s daughter, this cross was raised.”

That’s the perfect display of the Western Isle’s complicated history, part Norse and part Gael. The islands were effectively conquered by Vikings in the 800s, although they quickly converted to Christianity after settling. It wasn’t until the 1200s that the islands were officially handed back to Scotland!

Hit The Beaches On Vatersay

Heading south now, back past the airport, we were heading to the opposite end of Barra. We were actually leaving Barra behind completely, ticking off a second island by crossing the causeway to Vatersay! This wee island is famous for its dual beaches known as Bàgh Siar (West Bay), and Bàgh Bhatarsaigh (Vatersay Bay).

The main road heads right between the two of them, although you’ll want to park up by the community hall. With the white sand, turquoise water and incredible scenery, you might think this is paradise! What you can’t see is the wind blowing hard and the thermometer reading around 6 degrees…

It’s a great place for a swim or even a snooze on the beach, although be aware that you’ll often find cattle grazing in the open. They’re not dangerous unless you do something daft but just be aware of any dogs you bring along.

Vatersay almost ended up abandoned, just like its neighbour Mingulay is now. At the end of the 19th century the landowner evicted the tenants to replace them with sheep. A few brave individuals decided to fight back, building new crofts on the land and gaining the title Vatersay Raiders. They were taken to court and imprisoned but eventually the government bought the land and turned it into crofts!

Head To Castlebay & Kisimul Castle

Finally, it was time to head to Castlebay, the main town on the Isle of Barra. Since you’ve flown to Barra, you’ll probably be needing some supplies and I’d recommend heading to Buth Bharraigh. It’s the local shop, but it’s also like a community hub and the staff there seem to know everything and everybody on the island!

If you’re wondering why this place is called Castlebay, you just have to look out to the water. Kisimul Castle clings like a great, stone limpet to its rock, defying anybody to try and storm it. You can easily imagine how Clan MacNeil controlled the surrounding area from their wee fortress.

From Kisimul Castle, their chief Ruari the Turbulent raided up and down the west coast in the 1500s. The Pirate Laird pillaged any merchant that crossed his path, but it’s said that he particularly liked to prey on English ships!

When Kisimul was leased to Historic Scotland, it had very special terms. The price of the 1000-year lease was just £1 and a bottle of whisky every year! Sadly, it’s been closed for the last few years, although Historic Scotland will hopefully be running boat trips for a closer look again this year.

Read a more in depth story about Kisimul in this post about Island Castles.

Isle Of Barra Distillery

There’s no better way to end the day (or maybe start it) than with a drink of local spirit. Perfect time to visit Barra Distillery and sample some of their wares! Started by Michael & Katie Morrison as the first legal distillery on the island, this venture is still young but it’s thriving.

While the distillery can’t offer tours yet, we headed to the onsite shop to sample some goods. The rum wasn’t bad, but it’s the gin that really steals the show! Lets just say that we sampled plenty more of it in the hotel bar in the evening. We picked up a couple of bottles to take home and didn’t have any problems carrying them in our hand luggage through Barra Airport.

Where To Stay On Barra

On this trip, we stayed at the fantastic Castlebay Hotel which has exceptional views of Kisimul Castle, but it’s often booked up in advance. Here are a few other options for where to stay on Barra:

Cottage By The Sea – A perfect wee cottage for a group of up to 6 to explore Barra from.

Seaview – Another three bedroom cottage with excellent views of the sea!

Tigh na Mara – If you’re looking for a guest house complete with breakfast then Tigh na Mara is for you. It sells out fast though so you’d better be quick!

Dunard Hostel – If you’re travelling on your own or on a budget then Dunard Hostel has either bunks to rent or private rooms.

Where To Eat On Barra

You’re going to need your energy with all of these things to do in Barra, so here are your options for where to eat:

Café Kisimul – Probably the most famous place to eat in Barra, Cafe Kisimul blends Hebridean produce with Punjabi cooking!

Castlebay Hotel – The Castlebay Hotel serves up good quality, Scottish cuisine with an incredible view!

Heathbank Hotel – To the north of the island you’ll find the Heathbank Hotel, especially well known for its delicious seafood!

Back Up Plans!

I’ve already given you our backup plan of a trip to Bute in case you can’t fly to Barra for whatever reason. However, there are loads of other options for you! If you’ve got your heart set on an island, then why not try a trip to Arran – known as Scotland in Miniature?

Or stick to the mainland, take a drive and spend some time in the pretty wee town of Inveraray. From there, you can easily get off the beaten track if you decide to explore the quiet side of Loch Fyne! Whatever you do, especially if you make it to Barra, leave me a comment to say how you got on!