Visiting Bute – The Perfect Weekend Escape
As a compact little island nestled in the Firth of Clyde, just a short ferry ride away, I’m convinced that visiting Bute makes the perfect weekend escape. It’s easy to get to, just as easy to travel around and there really is something for everybody. If you have a couple of days to spare for a mini adventure, then I promise you won’t be bored on Bute.
On your trip to Bute you’ll experience historic castles, lavish mansions, beautiful beaches, ancient forts and of course stories round every corner. Of course there’s plenty for you to spend longer and really delve deep into the island. Or if you’re short on time then even go the other way and make the journey into a daytrip!
How To Get To Bute
Lots of people get nervous traveling to any of the islands, but it’s much easier than you might think! There are two ferries that make the short hop to Bute, both run by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac). There’s no need to book onto either, just turn up and drive on.
The most common route takes 35 minutes from Wemyss Bay, arriving in the island’s main town Rothesay. If you want a scenic drive but less time on the water then Colintraive on the mainland to Rhubodach on Bute only takes around 5 minutes. Why not enjoy both routes like I did, arriving in Rothesay and leaving from Rhubodach?
Starting Off In Rothesay
It’s unlikely you’ll be visiting Bute without spending at least some time in the main town Rothesay. The first thing that will probably hit you are the swathes of palm trees and exotic plants lining the shore. These are the perfect demonstration that parts of Scotland’s west coast have a surprisingly mild climate!
It’s not a large town so Rothesay is best explored on foot. If you’re looking for refreshments then head to the chilled out bar attached to the Isle of Bute Gin Distillery. Interested in learning more about local history on your trip to Bute? The small museum is packed full of artefacts from every chapter of the island’s past and worth every penny!
One thing that’s become iconic in Rothesay are the Victorian Toilets which does sound a little surprising. They’re practically a work of art, but unfortunately vandalism during lockdown has taken its toll. I arrived to discover that the door is now locked, operated by a keypad with no sign of a code. Protecting against vandals is important, but that was an unwelcome surprise when I really needed to go!
Rothesay Castle
While wandering through Rothesay, it’s unlikely you’re going to miss Rothesay Castle. These enormous walls are surrounded by a moat and surprisingly well-curated gardens, smack back in the middle of town. The castle isn’t just important to Bute though, this fortress actually gave rise to a Royal dynasty.
Like many of the west coast islands, Bute fell into Viking hands for generations, right up until the 12th century. It’s likely that they had been the first to build a fort at Rothesay to guard the natural harbour here. However, Scotland wanted its islands back. King Malcolm IV appointed a man called Walter as his hereditary Steward, ordering him to secure the western coast. He successfully won back Bute and his son Alan the Steward rebuilt the walls of Rothesay Castle in solid stone.
When a force of Norwegian-Scots returned to the new Rothesay Castle in 1230, it must have looked formidable. Defenders poured oil and lead from the walls, but the attackers simply hacked through the soft stone with their axes. They were chased off after filling their pockets, but the island would be fiercely fought over for years.
Things on Bute changed in 1371 when Robert the Bruce’s son King David II died without an heir. Robert the Steward found himself a new role and a new surname becoming King Robert Stewart. A new dynasty had begun and Rothesay Castle became a royal fortress. The heir to the Scottish Crown is still known as the Duke of Rothesay, Prince Charles’ title whilst north of the border.
Rothesay Castle is closed just now for masonry assessment, but a visit to Bute wouldn’t be complete without admiring this incredible building.
St Mary’s
On the very outskirts of Rothesay is a lesser known feature that absolutely deserves to be seen while visiting Bute. The tiny St Mary’s Chapel is easy to miss, hiding in the shadow of the modern parish church. Even if you notice this 14th Century building, there are no obvious signs encouraging you to try the door.
Trust me, you should always try the door. Inside what was once the chancel of a larger church, two carved stone figures are set back into the walls. These are known as the Knight’s Tomb and the Lady’s Tomb although we can only guess who is buried beneath. The coat of arms on the Knight suggests it was made for a member of the Stewarts, but we have no clues beyond that.
Now you’ve got a mystery to contemplate during your weekend escape.
A Range Of Stunning Beaches
Time to finally leave Rothesay, after all this is about visiting all of Bute, not just the town. There are plenty of historical places still to see, but unless this is a strict research trip, then there’s much more to enjoy around the island!
Bute has some stunning beaches, especially along the western coast. Many have incredible views across to the mountains of Arran, which is another fantastic island worth visiting. I didn’t manage to visit all of them, but ate pizza at Ettrick Bay before searching for seals at Scalpsie. Unfortunately the only sea-based creature I spotted swimming around was Molly…
There are others for you to explore though and I’m now convinced that Bute’s beaches live up to their high reputation. If you want to head to some lesser known spots then find out more about some of them here.
St Blane’s
Located at the far south of the island, I struggle to find the right words to describe St Blane’s Church. It’s quite simply one of the most incredible places I’ve ever experienced. If you only have time for just one thing while visiting Bute, then this is my recommendation.
Isolated up a small track, nestled in a hollow, the size of the sheltered clearing around St Blane’s is astounding. It’s easy to imagine a whole community living here, surrounding the church on its raised platform.
Confusingly, the church wasn’t established by St Blane at all, but by his uncle St Catan in the 6th Century. Around 200 years later, two Abbots were martyred here by marauding Vikings and soon St Blane’s was completely abandoned. The island came back under permanent Scottish control in the 1200s and that’s when these ruined remains date from.
Like most Catholic churches, St Blane’s was abandoned after the Reformation, apart from the priest who simply refused to leave. He was so much hassle for authorities, they just left him to live in the manse for around 30 years. The church soon fell into ruin, but thankfully the 3rd Marquess of Bute put his vast fortune and obsession with architecture to good use. He didn’t actually rebuild it, but did at least stabilise the remains for us to enjoy today.
Dunagoil Vitrified Fort
Not far from St Blane’s you can find some of Bute’s ancient history at Dunagoil Vitrified Fort. A vitrified fort like this is somewhere that has seen such immense heat, the stone walls have essentially fused together. Nobody knows exactly how it was done or more importantly why!
It can be hard to make out any human evidence atop this Iron Age hillfort, but that doesn’t mean Dunagoil isn’t worth exploring! There are two little hills to climb, the remains of a burial cairn and some pretty incredible views. If you’re visiting the museum in Rothesay then keep your eyes open for some of the archaeological finds from here
Even if you can’t manage right to the top, it’s an interesting area to wander around and you’ll find some spooky caves down by the water.
Mount Stuart
Top of most peoples list when visiting Bute is the spectacularly extravagant Mount Stuart. The building we see today was designed by the 3rd Marquess of Bute, mentioned previously. Remember, he was the one obsessed with architecture and just happened to be the richest man in Britain. It’s no surprise then that this character built a house just as eccentric as he was.
The first Mount Stuart from the early 18th Century had been practically destroyed by fire in 1877, leaving just a few wings standing. That gave the Marquess a clean slate for his mansion and he didn’t do things by half. It became the first home in Britain to be entirely lit using electricity as well as the first to have a heated indoor pool.
As a converted Catholic, the chapel had to be breathtaking, but the main draw inside Mount Stuart is the Marble Hall. The Marquess’ interest in mythology and astrology are evident in the displays directly overhead. Cut crystal stars are embedded in the ceiling as an exact replica of the night sky.
The Mount Stuart Trust have looked after the building and its lush gardens since 1989, ensuring it stays an essential stop during any visit to Bute.
West Island Way
Exploring everything Bute has to offer in just one weekend might be difficult without driving. However, if you have the time and energy then you could try hiking the West Island Way. It’s roughly 30 miles long and covers the island from north to south, crossing several different types of terrain. You’ll see some beautiful scenery, but if you want to visit the sights or beaches then those involve some detours.
Another great option would be to cycle around instead of drive. Bute is a very bike friendly island, I passed several cycling signs and free to use pumps on my journey.
Planning on Visiting Bute Yet?
So what are you waiting for? Hopefully I’ve convinced you that this wee island has lots to keep you entertained on your weekend escape.
I know that I’ll definitely be back visiting Bute again soon.
If you’re looking for other island escapes then how about a trip around the Isle of Skye?
4 Comments
Wendy S. · June 16, 2022 at 9:55 am
Bute certainly seems to be a tad underrated ???… but this article changes that !!!… ‘ease of travel’ for starters !!!…and once there a variety of places to discover – the Castle 🏰 anyway , but Mount Stuart has to be ‘a must-see’ especially the ceiling in the Chapel ??!!??… but there’s much , much more that Bute has to offer …and just a short journey away …. brilliant ❤️👌🏴 !!!
Graeme · June 16, 2022 at 9:56 am
Absolutely! This is a place I really hope gets a boom of visitors in the near future! It deserves it.
Janice · January 20, 2024 at 5:32 pm
Hi Graeme, I really enjoyed reading about Rothsay through you. I don’t often complete some composer’s thoughts! However, you are definitely interesting and a joy to read.
I will definitely be paying a visit this year as I only live in Edinburgh. Thank you so much.
Miriam · June 16, 2022 at 12:28 pm
It’s been a few years since we visited Bute, but my memories of that visit will stay with me. It was a gorgeous sunny day, which made it even more perfect. We drove the whole circuit and visited the castle. And yes, we were lucky to even get to see the beautiful decor of those Victorian toilets. It’s a shame vandalism has forced them to close. Hopefully it’ll only be temporary. We never, unfortunately, got to visit the sumptuous Steward home, if only to see that spectacular ceiling. Also, if you’re visiting, and they’re still in business, make sure you also treat yourself to one of Zavaronie’s scrumptious ice creams. But is definitely worth the visit.