Visiting Loch Awe: The Whole Way Round

More people are visiting Loch Awe every year, or at least stopping for pictures as they drive towards Oban. Very few ever really go exploring Loch Awe and that included me until a few weeks ago. It’s Scotland’s third largest freshwater loch, in an accessible area and with a road the whole way round. So why does nobody talk about it?

I was determined to find out exactly what we’ve all been missing by fully exploring the shores of Loch Awe. On the long circular drive, we discovered Loch Awe’s castles, both well-known and hidden, peaceful forests, tales of battles and stories from folklore.

In short – I wasn’t disappointed.

Where is Loch Awe?

A trip to Loch Awe takes you into the heart of Argyll. It’s around 2 hours from Glasgow or 3 hours from Edinburgh, arriving on the A85 leading to Oban. That main road only takes you around one small part of the loch though, there’s another 22 snaking miles south that gets largely ignored!

If you’re thinking of visiting Loch Awe in its entirety, then this guide will take you anti-clockwise starting from Dalmally. While I drove the 65 mile route in a single day, there are easily enough things to do at Loch Awe to fill a weekend trip. Especially if you’ve packed your walking boots!

Glenorchy Kirk – Dalmally

While not quite on the banks of Loch Awe, Glenorchy Kirk in Dalmally is so close that I have to recommend it to you. This strange looking octagonal church was only built in the 19th century, but has a history going back much further. It’s especially important if you’re a Macgregor, as the resting place of several early clan chiefs.

Although nobody seems to know exactly how, Glenorchy eventually became part of the ever growing territory of the Campbells of Loch Awe. Not much changed in the old church though, still proudly displaying the elaborate carved gravestones of the Macgregors. That’s until Black Duncan Campbell took possession and renovated the church in 1615.

He considered the beautiful works of art heretical, ordering every Macgregor grave slab tossed outside. There they lay, exposed to the elements and the rabbits for around 400 years, steadily eroding over time. That was until the Clan Gregor society stepped in, determined to save this part of their heritage.

The campaign they started to move the slabs inside has gained traction and they’re currently being restored in Edinburgh before returning to where they belong. Fundraising is still ongoing, but hopefully the “Dalmally Stones” will be in place mid-2024 at the latest.

Duncan Ban McIntyre Monument

If you want to get the lay of the land before exploring Loch Awe, take a short walk up a steep hill to the Duncan Ban Macintyre monument. The views over the loch are incredible, water stretching further than the eye can see, dotted with islands and surrounded by mountains. Tear your eyes away from the scenery though to discover more about the man who earned such a prominent memorial.

Duncan Ban or Fair Duncan was a Gaelic poet, sometimes called the Robert Burns of the Highlands, born around Loch Awe in the 18th century. He might have been a gifted poet, but he had no formal education and was most likely illiterate. Working the land as a forester and gamekeeper, his poetry gives a rare insight to the life of everyday people in this part of Scotland.

Duncan Ban wrote about the mountains, his beloved gun Nic Còiseim and how much he hated sheep. After years working in the Edinburgh City Guard, he returned to visit Loch Awe and was distraught at what he saw. The land he had loved and cared for was full of nothing but sheep, inspiring “Final Farewell to the Bens”.

During the 1745 Jacobite Rising, Duncan was hired by a landowner called Fletcher to fight in the old man’s place. Unfortunately, he lost his employer’s sword during the Battle of Falkirk Muir. Furious at the missing family heirloom, Fletcher refused to pay his due, so Duncan wrote about it. Describing how the rubbish, dented old sword badly bruised his hip, maybe he just threw it away to save carrying it all the way back…

Kilchurn Castle – Loch Awe’s Favourite Castle

By far the most popular thing to do at Loch Awe is to visit Kilchurn Castle. It’s not the oldest castle on the loch, but it’s easily one of the most picturesque in Scotland! Originally built by Colin Campbell of Glenorchy and his wife in the 15th century, it’s been closed for conservation works for a while now. Fortunately, the best view of it is actually from a field across the loch – right here.

It’s said that Colin once rushed home from crusade to Loch Awe after receiving a vision in his dreams about a terrible tragedy. He arrived to find that his neighbour, the Baron MacCorquodale, had convinced his wife that Colin had died and they were due to be married that evening! Disguising himself as a beggar, the crusader was invite into Kilchurn Castle for the wedding as an act of charity.

Now safely past the Baron’s guards, he asked if the lady of the house would serve a drink to this lowly beggar. Happy for any distraction on this miserable wedding day, Colin’s wife agreed and after the goblet was drained, she heard a clink inside. It was a ring she had gifted her husband for luck when he left!

Declaring to the Campbell clansmen that their lord had returned, the hall of Kilchurn Castle erupted with cheers. Baron MacCorquodale and his men made a hasty exit, with the door slamming behind them. The wedding feast was put to much better use, as a welcome home party.

St Conan’s Kirk – Scotland’s Strangest Church

One of the real hidden gems of Loch Awe, if you didn’t know St Conan’s Kirk was here, you would drive right past. This church is beautiful, intricate and bizarre in equal measures!

It looks ancient, but was only started by Walter Campbell towards the end of the 19th century. Walter was an architect who moved here with his family, however his elderly mother found the journey along Loch Awe to Glenorchy Kirk a little too long. The logical solution was to build his mum a new church much closer to home!

It started off as a fairly simple building but soon grew arms and legs. Today you’ll find a jumble of almost every era of Scottish church building. It has a cloister like a medieval monastery, a Norman style tower and plenty of Gothic embellishments. Inside, the remains of a window from Iona Abbey are on display and some of the roof beams were made from two old battleships.

A beautiful old window from South Leith Parish Church was moved here from Edinburgh, illuminating an effigy of Robert the Bruce. Below the mock tomb, there’s a little box containing one of the King’s bones, stolen when his real grave in Dunfermline was exhumed. It’s as Walter Campbell was trying to portray the legendary leader as a Catholic saint!

The doors to St Conan’s Kirk are open every day of the week, apart from during special events. Although entry is free, there’s a suggested donation of a few pounds to help towards the running costs. If you’re visiting Loch Awe at the weekend during the summer then there’s a good chance the tearoom will be open too!

Hike Ben Cruachan Or Tunnel Inside

As you’re exploring Loch Awe, you can’t miss the looming presence of Ben Cruachan towering over the landscape. It’s the highest mountain in a small but sharp ridge that separates Loch Awe from Loch Etive and for those with plenty of energy makes a fantastic hike. The walk is a circular, takes around 8-9 hours and you’ll find all the information you need here!

For those without the time or inclination to lug themselves up a mountain, you can go inside Ben Cruachan instead! There’s an enormous Hydro-Electric dam here with the pumpstation turned into a visitor attraction known as the Hollow Mountain. Digging this tunnel was an incredible feat of engineering and willpower, well worth the tour to learn the story.

It’s said that the Cailleach, Scotland’s creator goddess, once tended a magical well atop Ben Cruachan. She lifted an enormous stone slab every sunrise to free the water, placing it back again every sunset. However, one afternoon she fell asleep and didn’t wake until morning. By that time the water from the magic well had flooded the glen below, creating Loch Awe!

Drive The Battle of Brander Pass

Leaving the Cruachan Dam behind, you find yourself temporarily leaving Loch Awe behind and heading along the River Awe instead. The steep slopes of Ben Cruachan are to your right with the river and its equally sharp banks to the left. This is the Pass of Brander, a natural bottleneck that played an important part in the story of King Robert the Bruce.

After Bruce had been crowned in 1306, not every noble family or clan supported him. That included Clan MacDougall, the most powerful force in Argyll, who decimated the King’s army during the Battle of Dalrigh. By 1308, it was time for Bruce to get his revenge and that called for a visit to Loch Awe.

The MacDougalls prepared to ambush the King in the narrow Pass of Brander, not realising they were walking straight into a trap. Sir James Douglas and a party of archers had climbed to the peak of the mountains to surprise the ambushers from higher up the slopes. The helpless MacDougall men were trapped between two forces and the Battle of the Pass of Brander became a rout.

Glen Nant National Nature Reserve

Once free of the Pass of Brander and safely across the river, it’s time to get back to exploring Loch Awe. Everything is much quieter from this point onwards, the roads are narrower but you’ll find them a lot more peaceful. There are plenty of woodland walks on this stretch, but my recommendation would be Glen Nant Nature Reserve.

That’s because you have two options here, neither of them too strenuous. One is a very accessible, wheelchair friendly path along the wee river to a scenic picnic spot. The other is a 2 mile circular up the low hill, offering you great viewpoints through the trees known as The Ant Trail.

This historic forest was once full of industry, back when Bonawe Iron Works was still in operation. Oak trees across Glen Nant were coppiced, being cut down to a stump to encourage new shoots to grow. After a few years, the young trees were chopped down and turned into charcoal. Oak trees grow so slowly that those old coppiced stumps are still visible as you wander the path!

Detour Into Kilmartin Glen

As you reach the bottom end of the loch and the imaginatively named village of Ford, you have a choice. Either carry on exploring Loch Awe along the quiet, rarely visited eastern side, or turn off to detour around Kilmartin Glen.

This is one of the highlights of Argyll, where you can discover evidence of Scotland’s earliest history. The road will take you out at Carnasserie Castle, only 10 minutes away so you can easily add it to a trip around Loch Awe. There’s so much to see in Kilmartin Glen though, worth dedicating at least an entire day if you can!

Get Hands On With Kintail Birds of Prey

The first stop down this side of Loch Awe is something a little different. It’s time to get up close and personal with traditional falconry at Kintail Birds of Prey! They have everything from owls to eagles for you to learn about and handle. Just make sure you book ahead.

This isn’t just some quirky activity, it was once an important part of life around Loch Awe and Scotland as a whole. Birds of prey were vital for catching food for nobles, kings and clan chiefs and well trained raptors were worth their weight in gold. Falconry became one of the most popular sports amongst the Stuart monarchs especially Mary Queen of Scots. So really an afternoon here is your chance to live like a King or Queen!

Visit Loch Awe’s Hidden Castle – Innis Chonnel

You’ll need to keep your eyes peeled around Loch Awe if you want to spot Innis Chonnel Castle! Not only is this island fortress masked from the road by trees, it’s well camouflaged by sprawling foliage. Don’t just park in any passing place to reach it, only stop in the larger laybys with the bins to keep out of the way.

Then it’s a short scramble down to the lochside and an incredible view of Innis Chonnel Castle. This was one of the earliest Campbell strongholds, where the vast empire they built started. It seemed like the perfect impregnable island castle, but in the 15th century, they left it all behind! The Campbells moved their main residence to Inveraray on Loch Fyne and access to the open sea.

The old castle at Innis Chonnel became a secure prison. Donald Dubh, the heir to the MacDonald Lord of the Isles, was captured as a baby and imprisoned here until a fully grown man. After a daring escape, he rebelled against the crown only to end up captured once again and held in Edinburgh until being released decades later. Poor Donald only spent around 7 years of his entire life as a free man.

If you’ve brought your swimming gear or a canoe then there’s absolutely nothing stopping you from exploring the island. Just be careful around the ruins, both for falling rocks and any unreported ghostly presence lurking amongst the shadows!

Places To Eat Near Loch Awe

Ben Cruachan Inn – In the village of Lochawe itself, between Kilchurn Castle and St Conan’s Kirk, Ben Cruachan Inn is a great stop for pub grub. Serving local, seasonal produce daily, I can vouch for the well stocked bar!

Kilchrenan Inn – An excellent choice for quality Scottish food, found in the much quieter area, but still only 15 minutes from Taynuilt. Close enough for a short detour if you’re just passing Loch Awe.

Dalavich Village Shop – As the sign outside says this is a village shop, post office, cafe and takeaway all rolled into one. Located close to the southern tip of Loch Awe, it’s a welcoming place and a must stop if you’re driving the whole circular route.

Honesty Bakery Phone Box – This old, disused phone box has been converted into one of the many honesty boxes found around Scotland. You never know exactly what you’re going to find inside, often it’s cake, eggs or jam. Just take whatever you want and leave behind cash in the tin!

Where To Go After Visiting Loch Awe?

It’s a beautiful drive along the east side of the loch, hugging the water’s edge for most of the journey. There aren’t many places to stop along here, but just enjoy the drive. Then as your trip around Loch Awe is coming to an end, you’ll spot a sign pointing to the right.

It’s only 9 miles to Inveraray and yet another fascinating trip, this time around Loch Fyne. That’s Scotland’s longest sea loch and a journey I highly recommend taking, if you’re not already exhausted. Clearly, Argyll has plenty to offer and more than a few stories to share!

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