Exploring Jacobite Stories in Lochaber

When Molly and I were invited to stay at Inverskilavulin Estate and explore some local stories, we couldn’t believe our luck! Not only would we have somewhere warm and dry to stay instead of our usual tent, but this area is packed full of history. The only hard part was going to be figuring out which stories to cram into a single January weekend.

Inverskilavulin is just north of Fort William and not far from Achnacarry where Loch Arkaig and Loch Lochy are connected by a river. That was Clan Cameron of Loch Eil’s land and amongst all the tales this place has to tell there was one chapter of history that’s simply unavoidable. We were inevitably going to be exploring Jacobite stories.

Raising The Standard At Glenfinnan

Donald Cameron of Loch Eil was a staunch supporter of the Stuarts, so it’s no surprise that his territory was well caught up in Jacobite stories from the 1745 rising. Just 30 minutes away from Inverskilavulin you’ll find Glenfinnan. Seen as a safe, isolated location 275 years ago, this was where Bonnie Prince Charlie unfurled his flag.

The Prince had travelled here after landing in Eriskay from France almost a month earlier with very little support or supplies. He hadn’t been idle though. Charles had sent out instructions to all of the Highland chiefs to meet him at Glenfinnan at 1pm on the 19th August. However, things didn’t get off to the best start.

When his group arrived, they were met with an embarrassingly small welcome party of around 50 men. The Prince was nothing if not blindly optimistic and before long another 150 clansmen arrived. This was still a long way from an army. Things were looking bleak and the Jacobite dream could have ended there, until the sound of pipes came drifting over the hill.

It was 700 Camerons arriving to save the day and give the ceremony a bit more weight. The banner was raised, the throne was claimed and the long march south began. The Prince’s confidence paid off as his army swelled as they marched to a peak of around 8000 men.

The 18m tall monument was built in 1815 and is now under the care of the National Trust for Scotland. While many people visit for the “Harry Potter Bridge”, hopefully none of them leave Glenfinnan without discovering the fascinating Jacobite story.

The Skirmish At Highbridge

After visiting Glenfinnan, it sounds like that was the starting point of the 1745 Jacobite Rising. But by the time Bonnie Prince Charlie unfurled his standard, the first shots of the campaign had already been fired.

Word had reached the British Army of the Jacobite plans and 85 soldiers had been dispatched to supplement the garrison at Fort William. Using the new Military Roads meant that these soldiers could march quickly, but it also made them very predictable.

They were forced to cross a gorge at Highbridge, where they were ambushed by the MacDonalds of Keppoch. The Jacobites only had 11 men and a piper up against 85 trained soldiers but that didn’t put them off. They jumped around between the trees, fired their muskets and made so much noise that the British troops were terrified that they had run into an army.

Eventually, the soldiers fled back towards Loch Lochy, but were trapped by a force from the MacDonnells of Glengarry. After a long march and faced with angry Highlanders, they promptly surrendered. The prisoners were soon marched to Glenfinnan and presented to the Bonnie Prince. If you’re going to arrive late to a party, then it’s only polite to bring a gift with you.

The Highbridge would eventually be replaced and left to fall into ruin. Now only atmospheric pillars rise from the riverbed. This is without a doubt one of my favourite Jacobite stories and a place I’ve wanted to visit for a long time. I wasn’t disappointed at all and would highly recommend a visit. Please don’t be tempted to walk out onto the remaining section of bridge though, it’s fenced off for a reason and a very long way down.

Commando Monument

To get to the best side of Highbridge, you’re going to have to park at the Commando Monument and it’s not like you can miss it! The enormous memorial really does match the enormous bravery that the first Commandos showed.

They were established after the 1940 Dunkirk evacuation to be irregular soldiers, capable of fighting in unconventional ways, on any kind of terrain. They had to be prepared for the harshest of environments, so this was where they were put through their paces.

The training centre was based at Achnacarry Castle and new recruits were dropped off at Spean Bridge railway station. The first test started immediately. They were given 36lb of equipment and told to march the 7 miles to the castle. The gates would be closed after an hour. If they hadn’t arrived by then, they could march straight back and get the next train home. Some Commando units voluntarily race the speed march today, in memory of those who came before them.

The Commandos were the first modern, special forces of their kind but it wasn’t just British volunteers who trained here. French, Dutch, Belgian and Polish soldiers trained alongside them and later formed their own special forces.

These volunteers underwent a brutal training camp in spartan conditions. If they made it through, being awarded the Green Beret was a huge honour. They carried out secret operations of anywhere between 2 and 10,000 men, although not always with success.

Before long, the Commandos were described as “terror and sabotage troops” by Hitler who wasn’t sure how to react to this new breed of soldiers. He issued the “Commando Order” – any captured were to be executed without trial. Fortunately they helped turn the tide of a terrible war.

Cille Choirril Church

Even as a self confessed history nerd, there are only so many Jacobite stories you can take at one time. It was time for a break and luckily there are plenty more things to see within an easy drive from Inverskilavulin. One of them just happens to be possibly the most picturesque church in Scotland.

Just a few miles passed Roy Bridge and high above the road, Cille Choirril Church looks out for miles around. The graveyard stretches even higher, up and over the hill at the back. Nobody seems to know exactly how old this burial ground is, the church is more modern than many of the graves. If this has been a holy place since the saint it was named for, then that would be 6th century.

One story claims the foundations of the modern church was built by a man called Allan nan Creach. He was a brutal Clan Chief in the 15th century, concerned with saving his damned soul from the Devil. Bizarrely, he was given instructions to build seven churches by the King of the Cats to redeem himself.

One man who didn’t need any redeeming was the Gaelic bard Iain Lom or Bald Iain. As well as writing poetry and songs about others, his life would have made a great epic itself! One famous act was leading Montrose’s Royalist army through snow-filled mountain passes towards the Battle of Inverlochy in 1645. Another was his effort to bring the Keppoch Murderers to justice. His grave is lost but a new carved stone was erected proudly next to the church.

Cameron Museum

Achnacarry House where those Commandos trained now hosts the Cameron Museum and a real pilgrimage site for Clan Members. Outside there is even a cairn made of and covered in stones brought here by members from all over the world. It’s a great reminder of how strong people feel those Scottish roots.

The small museum tells the stories of the Camerons who have lived in Lochaber for hundreds of years. There’s no better place to discover Jacobite stories considering how crucial a role the Camerons played. Add in the history of the first ever Commandos along with everyday Clan Cameron life and this wee place is definitely worth the visit.

To make things even better, as we drove down the long drive to reach the museum we passed a small group of stags quietly munching away. I used to work with deer so I always get excited to see these majestic beasts. Little did I realise how many we were going to bump into as we turned the corner towards Loch Arkaig.

The Lost Jacobite Treasure of Loch Arkaig

Loch Arkaig is a long body of water with very little development around it. The road along the north of the Loch just ends in a car park and few people visit. But this quiet little Loch is the scene for one of the most enduring Jacobite stories of all. The Lost Jacobite Treasure.

Only a matter of weeks after the Battle of Culloden in 1746, two French ships carrying long awaited funds and supplies arrived on the West Coast. This was the support that Prince Charles always said was coming, but nobody had believed him. Unfortunately they were too late.

Royal Navy ships were closing in on, so the crew left the Spanish gold and fought their way back out to sea. 7 caskets were unloaded, 1 was immediately stolen, but that still left a fortune lying on a Scottish beach.

The gold had to be hidden away until the Jacobite leaders could figure out what to do with it. Nobody is entirely sure where it went or if it was just all wasted away. Rumours spread about the gold’s location. It seems to have been dug up and reburied a number of times, moved and split into smaller amounts. But one location pops up time and again – Loch Arkaig.

We drove the long journey along the north coast as the sun was starting to go down. I’ve seen an awful lot of Scotland in my time but I can hand on heart say, this is one of the most beautiful journeys I’ve done. Mountains in the distance, a glassy Loch to the side and about 6 groups of dozens of stags wandering around. Best of all, we didn’t see another car throughout the entire 2 hour return trip.

Obviously I didn’t get a sniff of the lost gold, but I was so enthralled in the journey that I forgot to look!

Frances’ Sketch Pad

Our accommodation was literally over the hill from Loch Arkaig, although admittedly I drove the long way round rather than taking the direct hike. After a long day of chasing Jacobite stories or treasure hunting, somewhere comfortable to rest and recuperate is very welcome. I couldn’t have asked for a better spot than Frances’ Sketch Pad. If the view from the patio wasn’t already enough, then the whisky and chocolates on arrival sealed the deal.

Obviously the wee 1 bed lodge was dog friendly. Molly enjoyed spreading herself in front of the log fire like a lady of luxury. Once she was fast asleep, I had an opportunity to enjoy the hot tub and the very last view over the Nevis Range as the sun set. The owners live on site and were incredibly accommodating, but you still feel like you’re in an isolated little bothy in the middle of nowhere.

This really was the perfect base to explore the area around Fort William and Loch Arkaig. I was even told about an old cannon found abandoned just along the road, probably leftover from the Jacobite campaign. Maybe that lost gold was a little closer to Inverskilavulin Estate than I’d originally thought. If you want to hunt for it yourself then you can book Frances’ Sketch Pad by clicking here!

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