Complete Guide Of Things To Do In Dunkeld
I find it incredibly difficult to drive north from Perth without stopping in at Dunkeld. There’s something about this perfect, wee town that draws me in time and time again. It’s not just that there are so many things to do in Dunkeld, most of the time my visit is only to grab a sandwich or have a stroll!
As one of the most popular places to visit in Perthshire, there are thousands of people who clearly agree with me. From walks in nature to historical sites, delicious local food to adventure activities, you’re bound to find something that will draw you into Dunkeld as well!
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Where Is Dunkeld?
You’ll find Dunkeld around 12 miles north of Perth, on the main A9 road through the Cairngorms to Inverness. Located on the Tay, Scotland longest river, with wooded hills surrounding it in every direction, visiting Dunkeld feels like a perfect Highland town. It’s easily accessible but because it sits well off the main road, still feels a little remote.
Most people exploring Dunkeld arrive by car either from the north or south. There is a large car park to the north of the town which you can find here. That costs a very small charge, has public toilets available for another small charge, but it can get very busy. If you’re lucky enough to find a parking space on the street then that’s free.
Alternatively, you might want to visit Dunkeld by public transport. Your easiest option is by train, which arrives just across the river in Birnam, with direct services from both Edinburgh and Inverness.
Early History of Dunkeld
It’s such a quiet wee town today, you might be surprised on your visit to Dunkeld to discover it used to be one of Scotland’s most important settlements! In fact, the name Dunkeld means the Fort of the Caledonians, one of Scotland’s largest tribes when the Romans arrived. The town would eventually grow up around a church founded by one of the powerful Pictish Kings.
In the 9th century, in the very earliest days of Scotland, King Kenneth Macalpine is said to have increased Dunkeld’s importance. He moved holy relics from the island of Iona to Dunkeld, including the bones of St Columba, to protect them from Vikings. The current cathedral grew from that Pictish church and so it makes sense that it would top of the list for things to do in Dunkeld!
Explore Dunkeld Cathedral’s Grounds
Enter the grand, wrought iron gates of Dunkeld Cathedral and you’re met with a place of peace and tranquillity. The River Tay flows alongside making a great spot for a picnic, while pine trees soar above and sacred yews hug the cathedral walls. Unfortunately, this holy landscape hasn’t always been quite so quiet.
In 1689, the first Jacobite rising met its climax here in the grounds of Dunkeld Cathedral. While the Jacobites had just won an overwhelming victory nearby at the Battle of Killiecrankie, they had lost their charismatic leader Bonnie Dundee. A fresh troop of government soldiers had now been sent to Perthshire, tasked with stopping the rising at Dunkeld.
They were known as Cameronians and since the town itself had no fortifications, they used the walls of the cathedral instead. The 5000 Jacobites outnumbered Dunkeld’s defenders around 4 to 1, but they couldn’t use their terrifying Highland Charge in the tight streets. Instead, they climbed into the roofspace of buildings to fire down on their opponents.
The Battle of Dunkeld lasted all day, with many buildings catching fire and leaving their occupants trapped. Eventually, as they ran out of ammunition, the Jacobites abandoned what was left of the burnt out town. It wasn’t a devastating defeat but with morale low, the rising was soon to collapse entirely.
Meet A Wolf Inside Dunkeld Cathedral
Don’t be put off by scaffolding on the older section of the walls, one of the most interesting things to do in Dunkeld is to step inside the cathedral. I’m disappointed that it took me so long to realise that only the Historic Scotland section was closed! This is more than just a beautiful old church and you’ll find its main draw hidden up the back.
Walk down the central passageway and behind the wooden screen to find the tomb of Alexander Stewart – The Wolf of Badenoch. His full story would need an entire blog post to tell (hopefully coming soon) but even without it, the effigy is incredible. This is the only surviving royal tomb from this period of time and it’s in incredible condition!
Alexander was a younger son of King Robert II, the first Stewart King of Scots. His father used him along with his older brothers to exert his control on huge swathes of Scotland. It was Alexander’s greed for power that saw him come up against the Bishop of Moray. Long story short, the prince burned down Elgin Cathedral!
That action gained him the posthumous nickname “Wolf of Badenoch” and a reputation he’s never been able to shake. Admire the amazing craftmanship of the armour, down to the detailed buckles and straps! Just round the corner, there’s a small museum of other local historical pieces to enjoy.
Dunkeld Whisky Tasting
There are more things to do in Dunkeld than just discovering the history though. What visit to a Scottish town would be complete without a wee dram of whisky?
You’ve got two excellent options when it comes to tasting whisky in Dunkeld, both close to the historic market cross. First, discover what kind of whisky you enjoy best by treating yourself to a Taste Talk Fling. Inside their tasting room, you get perfect pairings of whisky and chocolate to satisfy the tastebuds. If whisky isn’t your thing, they also offer gin!
Then just along the street you can visit Dunkeld’s Whisky Box! This independent whisky shop has a large selection of bottles for you to choose from. They even have a small selection of drams to sample at a reasonable price – as long as you’re not driving!
Shop Local Craft Stores
One of the most popular things to do in Dunkeld for Scots and tourists alike is to go shopping! The town is full of small, independent stores that are a far cry from the typical tourist tat. If you want to bring a piece of Scotland away with you, then this is the place to do it.
The pick of the bunch is Kat n Kat, a small store run by a jeweller and a textile artist, found in an old smithy. It’s a really cosy wee space, even on the coldest of days and you can browse a huge selection of gifts and homeware.
If you’re looking for clothing then try the Naked Sheep or if you’re a thrift shopper then try The Vintage Shop. Maybe you’re more of a foodie and in that case, get yourself to Dunkeld Fine Foods to pick up some local smoked salmon!
Venture Across The Telford Bridge
There are plenty more things to do in Dunkeld if you’re not afraid to cross the Telford Bridge! Technically, this is actually the village of Birnam and so many visitors have no idea that it’s there. If there’s a bus has just arrived or there are hordes of people visiting Dunkeld, then this can be a great spot to escape to.
The bridge itself is magnificent, built in the early 1800s by famous engineer Thomas Telford to replace a centuries old ferry. It had been funded by the Duke of Atholl and in order to recoup his costs, the wealthy landowner was allowed to charge a toll. Local people weren’t happy about the cost and there were several riots until the toll was finally abolished in 1879.
Before you arrive in Birnam, you’ll spot the statue of esteemed fiddle player Niel Gow. From humble beginnings as a weaver, Niel became a legendary musician with an equally famous quick wit. He cared little for rank or position and gained a reputation for scolding of guests at the fancy parties he entertained!
Explore Little Dunkeld Kirkyard
I’m not sure if it makes me weird or not, but I enjoy wandering old graveyards! As well as hunting out the oldest grave I can find, I like to read the inscriptions on the headstones. Some tell a fascinating, often tragic, story and give us a small insight to very real people.
At Little Dunkeld Church, you can find graves of prominent local people including our fiddler friend Niel Gow. However, the most interesting graves are two that sit right next to the church wall and depict Adam & Eve. The best preserved stone dates from 1744, commemorating John Burry and possibly his wife with initials JS.
The church is locked up tight but its most famous treasure is a 9th century handbell. It’s thought it might well have accompanied St Columba’s relics to Dunkeld and is one of very few holy bells still in existence. It’s rarity means that it’s now kept in a bank vault but legend says if anybody did try and steal the bell, it would find its own way back anyway!
Recite Macbeth At The Birnam Oak
If you’re a Shakespeare fan then there’s one thing to do in Dunkeld above all others. The name Birnam might have sounded familiar to you if you’ve ever read the Scottish Play. Macbeth “shall never vanquished be, until Great Birnam wood to high Dunsinane hill Shall come against him.”
Take a stroll along the riverside here to hunt down the remnants of the Great Birnam Wood. There are a fair few beautiful, old trees here, so thankfully, there are signs to keep you searching in the right direction for the Birnam Oak. It’s big and beautiful, even if it needs a walking stick these days…
The Birnam Oak is around 600 years old, which means that it would have been here in Shakespeare’s day. It’s thought that he found inspiration for Macbeth during a visit to the area while performing for King James VI in 1599. He may well have come face to face with this very Oak!
The actual story from the Scottish Play isn’t particularly historically accurate, Macbeth was a real King of Scots, but as far as we know, he was a very good one! He’s often called the last Gaelic King though and since James VI was trying to curb the power of Gaelic clans, it was a smart bit of propaganda from Shakespeare!
Meet Peter Rabbit At The Birnam Arts Centre
Not many people realise that Beatrix Potter spent her childhood summers around Dunkeld & Birnam, this is where her famous stories took shape! Birnam Arts Centre has both an exhibition and a Beatrix Potter Garden making it a fantastic thing to do in Dunkeld with kids.
You can also find a cafe, gallery and gift shop here but the real draw are the events. At Birnam Arts you can find kids art clubs, family ceilidhs and theatre productions. As I’m writing this, there’s an exciting play called James V: Katherine about a woman defending herself from execution in the King’s court. I’ve just gone ahead and booked tickets!
Get Active In The Great Outdoors!
Highland Perthshire is a brilliant area for getting into the great outdoors. There are mountains to climb, rivers to travel, lochs to traverse and woodland to get lost in. If you visit Dunkeld then you’re in the perfect place to take advantage of it all!
For extreme watersports, have a look at the Canyoning Company. They can take thrillseekers gorge walking or canyoning to leap, swim and plunge to their hearts content. I think I might sit that one out! Note that these activities are solely available in the warmer months for very good reason.
If you’d rather stay on land, then how about offroad quadbike treks in the woods around Dunkeld? Highland Offroad offer hour long treks around obstacle courses and open routes. Children over 12 are welcome so it could be a muddy day out for the whole family!
You could choose to stay clean and dry altogether with the Land Rover Experience. Take on an offroad course in comfort with a state of the art 4×4 Land Rover, navigating seemingly impossible terrain. I did this years ago for a friend’s birthday and loved the whole experience.
Wander In Nature At The Hermitage
When it comes to getting out into nature around Dunkeld, a special note has to go to the Hermitage. This woodland walk is a highlight of any day out in Perthshire, especially if you visit in Autumn. Wander amongst some incredibly tall trees until you reach Ossian’s Hall and the dramatic view over the Black Linn Falls.
This pleasure walk was laid out in the 18th century by the Duke of Atholl to give his guests somewhere to wander. Walk through the doors of the hall and out onto the balcony to be met with the crashing noise of the waterfall. Say what you like about the Duke of Atholl, he knew how to pick a good spot!
Head a little further along the trail and you’ll find a small man-made cave. It’s said that when The Hermitage was first built, they advertised for a real hermit to live here and entertain visitors! As far as we know nobody accepted the position and I’m not sure I’d be comfortable moving into this wee space.
Best Places To Eat In Dunkeld
Once you’ve exhausted yourself with all the things to do in Dunkeld, you’re going to need to fuel up. Fortunately, there are some amazing places to eat in the area, with great local produce!
The Scottish Deli – I almost always stop here for a sandwich and a coffee every time I’m passing Dunkeld. There are options for all diets and tastes, you won’t be disappointed!
The Clootie Dumpling – For a wee cafe with tasty sweet treats, head to The Clootie Dumpling!
The Taybank – Probably the fanciest meal in Dunkeld, the Taybank has gained a great reputation for it’s delicious dinners!
Perth Arms – For a more casual dining experience, head to the Perth Arms for traditional pub grub.
Best Places To Stay In Dunkeld
Being situated on such an important route through the Highlands, it’s no surprise there are a number of great places to stay in Dunkeld.
Atholl Arms Hotel – This is a place that’s dog friendly rather than just dog tolerant! Molly was made to feel incredibly welcome here with a gift bag and treat stations around the hotel. For non-dog owners, it’s an incredibly comfortable and quiet place to stay.
Dunkeld House Hotel – For those of you who like to splash out on a special occasion, the Dunkeld House Hotel could be for you. With onsite fitness centre, swimming pool, restaurant and activities like clay pigeon shooting, you might not even want to leave!
Laird’s Apartments – If you’d rather somewhere self catering, then you can rent the 2 bedroom Laird’s Apartments. They’re fully equipped with everything you could need!
1 The Cross – Stay right in the heart of old Dunkeld at 1 The Cross, a comfortable apartment with everything you could need!
If these things to do in Dunkeld have caught your interest, how about visiting them on a Scotland’s Stories Tour?
Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!
1 Comment
Jess · September 9, 2024 at 3:18 pm
Thanks for the great tips! I grew up in Perth, Canada and I’m making my way to our namesake town in Scotland. This is the exact information that I need to make sure that I don’t miss some of the highlights in the area.