7 Most Dramatic Scottish Island Castles
Scotland is full of castles, with over 2000 spread across the hills, glens and clifftops. With over 30,000 lochs and thousands of miles of coast, you’ll also find plenty of Scottish island castles to visit. I’m talking about castles almost entirely surrounded by water, rather than those found on one of Scotland’s many larger, inhabited islands.
There’s something especially dramatic about a Scottish island castle. Of course, they’re incredibly picturesque, but they also get the imagination going overtime. They hark back to a time when this natural defence was invaluable. Imagine birlinn ships bringing warriors home or a clan chief gazing out over his domain as the sun sets.
There are lots to choose from, but here is my pick of the 7 most dramatic Scottish island castles!
If you’d like to visit some of these castles with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!
Castle Tioram
I’m starting this list of the best Scottish island castles with my absolute favourite – Castle Tioram. Situated in the remote area of Moidart known as the Rough Bounds, it’s one of the least visited castles in Scotland. I have no doubt that if Tioram was just a little more accessible, it would be mobbed!
The name means Dry Castle and the island it sits on is only accessible by foot at low tide. Built in the 1200s, the first record we have of Tioram comes from Christina MacRuari leasing it to the Campbells in return for one ship of warriors when required. It would eventually pass to Christina’s relative Ranald and this Scottish island castle became the main stronghold of Clanranald.
This branch of the MacDonalds loved causing trouble and no doubt felt safe and secure thanks to Castle Tioram. The 12th Chief of Clanranald was an evil man called John. He even named his gun “Cuckoo” because it would quickly appear and fire from nowhere. John liked to stand at the highest point of Castle Tioram and take shots at whoever he could, including his own clansmen.
The chief was so hated that he even manifested a spirit believed to be from the Devil himself. A terrifying, black frog. No matter where he sailed, this frog would be waiting for him. When John died in his bed, the frog suddenly disappeared with a crack that sounded just like a shot from the Cuckoo.
Castle Tioram itself can’t be accessed, just the island itself but that doesn’t detract from the experience. Imagine a time when the island outside the castle walls was one buzzing with life but at the same time, enjoy the peace and quiet!
Eilean Donan Castle
Probably the most famous island castle in Scotland is Eilean Donan Castle. Thousands of tourists visit every year on the road towards Skye, some to go inside but others just for the view. These days you access the castle via an elegant bridge, but up until 100 years ago this was a true island fortress.
While the view is iconic, Eilean Donan is also a place packed full of stories!
Legend says that the castle was founded in the 13th century by somebody with a special gift. This young man could speak with birds and he travelled Europe gaining wisdom, fame and fortune as we went. On his arrival back to Scotland, King Alexander commanded him to build a castle on Eilean Donan and protect the area from invaders.
In 1539, and the castle was beingheld by a small number of Macraes when attacked by dozens of Macdonald ships. When all looked lost and Duncan Macrae was down to his very last arrow, he saw the perfect target. It pierced the leg of Donald Gorm, the leader MacDonald leader and forced the rest to retreat.
Then in 1719 this Scottish island castle became caught up in the least well-known of the Jacobite risings. After 300 Spanish soldiers landed, they didn’t find the support from the Highlands that they’d expected.
Leaving a small garrison behind, the rest marched off to defeat at the Battle of Glen Shiel. Soon Government warships bombarded Eilean Donan into submission before blowing it up with gunpowder. At least one Spaniard died in the attack because his ghost wanders the grounds.
Then in the early 20th century, Eilean Donan Castle was rebuilt by John Macrae-Gilstrap. It’s scenic setting has turned it into a national icon. Just remember to pay attention to the stories when you visit!
Loch An Eilein Castle
This beauty is Loch an Eilein, literally Loch of the Island. The name just proves how important this Scottish island castle has always been for the surrounding area. Surrounded by mountains and trees in the heart of the Cairngorms, this castle was once home to the Wolf of Badenoch!
Locations don’t come much more dramatic than this, so sheltered by woodland that you don’t see the walls until you’re right there. Sit still and you can almost imagine the Wolf and his “wild wicked Highland men” returning from dishing out some of their violent justice.
Better known during his life as Alexander Stewart, the Wolf gained his nickname after death due to a reputation for burning down churches. The Bishop of Elgin had tried to bring the nobleman to heel, threatening to grant his wife a divorce. Eventually, the Wolf was pushed too far and retaliating by setting Elgin Cathedral ablaze!
The story of this island fortress doesn’t start and end with the Wolf though. It was originally home to the even more powerful Comyn family who built a series of castles to control their huge estates. They were practically untouchable until Robert the Bruce killed John Comyn and split Scotland in two.
The Comyn side almost won this civil war, but eventually Bruce overcame the opposition. He then dished out their land to whoever could successfully hold onto it. No wonder Alexander Stewart faced a few local problems during his rule in the late 1300s!
Castle Stalker
With a name like Stalker, this tiny towerhouse, perched on a rock in a sea loch was always going to have an interesting past. Back when roads were scarce and travel by boat was easiest, this was an important route inland. The loch slices deep into the Highlands from the Isle of Mull all the way to Fort William.
The original island castle was built around 1320 by Clan MacDougall. However, after opposing Robert the Bruce, they lost their power and we have the Stewarts of Appin to thank for building Castle Stalker. Their main rivals in the area were the Campbells and in 1520 Alexander Stewart was killed by them while fishing alone here.
His son Donald was only a baby and his nurse knew she couldn’t outrun the Campbells while carrying the infant. Instead, she hid him in Castle Stalker while she fled to safety. Once the coast was clear, the nurse came back to find the baby safe and sound.
The child grew up with legendary strength and became known as “Donald nan Ord” or Donald of the Hammers because he could wield a huge blacksmith’s hammer in each hand. He put those hammers to work at the age of 24 by attacking the Campbells at Dunstaffnage Castle and avenging his fathers death. As reckless as Donald sounds he lived to the grand age of 87!
Eventually Castle Stalker was lost by the Stewarts to their old enemy the Campbells, not in battle but by a drunken wager in 1620! The Stewarts failed to reclaim it several times until eventually purchased by Charles Stewart of Achara in 1908. Today, you can sail out for a tour of this Scottish island castle, but spaces are very limited!
Kisimul Castle
Wave to Kisimul Castle as the ferry passes, sitting on its rock in Castlebay on the Isle of Barra. This wee island castle was once home to the MacNeils and in the 1500s their clan chief made such a nuisance of himself, he gained the nickname Ruari the Turbulent.
From Kisimul Castle, Ruari raided up and down the west coast, pillaging any merchant that crossed his path. Nobody was safe from the Pirate Laird, but it’s said that he had a particular interest in English ships.
Ruari became famously rich from his exploits. Kisimul was decorated with expensive silks and full of the finest wine – none of it paid for. Legend says even his horses were shod with golden shoes!
Eventually, Ruari the Turbulent’s exploits came to the attention of Queen Elizabeth of England and she wanted justice. A price was put on his head, but nobody was foolish enough to betray or attack him!
Instead, Elizabeth forced King James of Scotland to punish his subject. There was little James could do directly, so the task was given to Mackenzie of Kintail.
Mackenzie arrived at Kisimul Castle claiming to have just stolen a cargo of French wine. Ruari couldn’t resist a few samples and when he awoke in the morning, the Pirate Laird was in chains.
Faced with execution, Ruari was asked to explain his preying on English ships. The chief claimed that he was avenging the execution of James’ mother, Mary Queen of Scots. Ruari was allowed to live, although Kisimul Castle was given to Mackenzie as his reward.
Mackenzie leased the island castle back to Ruari for only 40 Merks per year. That tradition of cheap rent continues, with Historic Scotland running Kisimul Castle today on a 1000-year lease for just a bottle of whisky and £1 per year.
Innis Chonnell Castle
Hidden away on the quiet side of Loch Awe, you really need to keep a lookout through the trees for Innis Chonnel Castle.
It’s a short scramble down to the lochside where you’re faced with an incredible view of this Scottish island castle. Innis Chonnel was one of the earliest Campbell strongholds, where their vast empire all started. Seemingly the perfect impregnable island castle, they left it all behind in the 1400s!
The Campbells moved their main residence to Inveraray on Loch Fyne with its access to the open sea.
The old castle at Innis Chonnel became a secure prison. Donald Dubh, the heir to the MacDonald Lord of the Isles, was captured as a baby and held here until a fully grown man. After a daring escape, he rebelled against the crown only to end up captured once again and stuck in Edinburgh Castle until being released decades later. Poor Donald only spent around 7 years of his entire life as a free man.
If you’ve brought your swimming gear or a canoe then there’s absolutely nothing stopping you from exploring the wee island. Just be careful around the ruins, both for falling rocks and any unreported ghostly presences lurking amongst the shadows!
Loch Leven Castle
There are plenty of places around Scotland with a connection to Mary Queen of Scots, but nowhere has a story quite like Loch Leven Castle. After Mary was forced to surrender to her nobles at Carberry Hill in 1567, she was imprisoned at this island castle.
Seemingly, there was no escape, but this Queen of Scots wasn’t somebody who gave up easily.
Castle Island is actually about three times larger than in Mary’s day, now that the water level has dropped. It was a tiny space for a Queen used to roaming the country. She was truly miserable here.
The monarch arrived pregnant, lost the twins and then while on her sickbed, was forced to abdicate. Sir William Douglas, keeper of the castle, lit bonfires and fired cannons to celebrate, while rubbing salt into the wound.
Mary was no wilting flower though, she might be battered and bruised, but she was still very persuasive. The Queen found allies in her jailor’s brother George and a boy Willie Douglas.
The trio plotted her escape and the first attempt saw Mary in a boat disguised as a washer woman. Unfortunately, her lily white, delicate hands gave away her life of pleasure rather than scrubbing.
It was only a matter of weeks before the next jailbreak. The Douglases organised a May Day celebration, with lots of dances and drinking. During young Willie’s performance, he pickpocketed the castle keys and smuggle them to Mary.
Dressed as one of her lady companions, Mary hopped in a boat and Willie rowed with all his might away from the island. Even if Sir William realised the Queen was gone, he would find holes smashed in the bottom of every sunken boat. Mary was ready to attempt her comeback!
Bonus – Ardvreck Castle
What am I doing including a bonus castle?!
Well, Ardvreck Castle sits on a peninsula in Loch Assynt which sometimes floods, making this feel like a Scottish island castle. That’s enough for me to include this as an extra! You can find this incredible place on the northwest side of the NC500.
Dating from the 1400s, it’s said that the Chief of the MacLeods of Assynt couldn’t afford to build Ardvreck Castle on his own. Local legend says that the Devil, disguised as a tall, dark, handsome man, offered to help finance the operation. All he wanted in return, was the chief’s immortal soul.
It was a steep price and MacLeod was reluctant to pay. So, the Devil changed his offer to the chief’s beautiful daughter’s hand in marriage instead. To the man’s eternal shame, he agreed.
Once Ardvreck castle was built, it was time to pay the Devil. The poor girl had no idea what she was getting into, until her father, overcome with guilt, came clean. Distraught, but with no way of escaping the castle before the ceremony, she decided there was only one option.
Rather than marry the Devil, the chief’s daughter threw herself from the top tower into the loch below. The groom was furious, throwing rocks to destroy MacLeod’s land, before disappearing in a big huff.
However, the story isn’t over. People soon started hearing a gentle sobbing around Loch Assynt and caught glimpses of a large flicking tail under the water. Instead of drowning, the girl had transformed into a Mermaid, keeping hidden from the Devil in caves deep below the surface.
The changing water level that turns this peninsula into an island is said to be the Mermaid, filling the loch with tears. Shed for a life that she was denied.
If this trip to sounds like something you’d like to do with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!
If castles are your thing then Scotland has many more for you to explore! Just as dramatic as Scottish island castles, read this list of those that cling to clifftops. If you need to pack lots into a small period of time, then you might want to try Aberdeenshire – known as Castle Country!
2 Comments
Margaret · July 6, 2023 at 6:18 pm
Loved the article about castles I never knew existed except for one or two.
Graeme · July 6, 2023 at 5:19 pm
Glad I got to share them with you then!