Best Things to Do In Unst – Scotland’s Incredible Northerly Isle

Most visitors to Shetland never manage to visit Unst. It’s the most northerly inhabited island in all of Scotland, but it’s more than worth the effort it takes to reach. The scenery is outstanding, the history fascinating, the wildlife remarkable and the people unbelievably welcoming.

Did I mention there’s even a Viking longship to clamber about in?

It’s become one of my favourite places to visit, home to people I now consider friends. There are so many things to do on Unst that you might want to consider booking a room for the night, just to make sure you pack it all in!

How to Get to Unst

First things first, you’re going to need to get to Shetland. That involves either an overnight Northlink ferry or a flight, but you’re going to want access to a car for this trip. I’d highly recommend giving my article about visiting Shetland a read to cover everything else!

Being the most northerly island in Shetland, getting to Unst takes more effort. Not only does it involve getting a ferry, but you then have to drive across Yell to get a second ferry! Some people get very nervous about navigating the smaller ferries between islands, but don’t worry! Once you’re at the terminal, it’s very straightforward.

Deciphering the timetables can be tricky since they don’t use the island names but the terminal names. You’re aiming for Toft on the Shetland mainland to take the 20 minute ferry to Ulsta. Then drive straight across Yell to Gutchar and take the 10 minute ferry to Belmont.

You can find the timetables here and you will definitely need to book a spot well in advance for the times that you want!

Driving is pretty much essential for visiting Unst and if you’re a little unsure about doing that over here, this article on how to drive in Scotland will help! I’ve also got a link here for the best place to find car hire in Scotland.

Explore Muness Castle

Unlike on the Scottish mainland, there aren’t many castles in Shetland. That’s just one reason that visiting Unst is so worth it, where you can explore the northernmost castle in all of Scotland! Thankfully, Muness Castle is easy to reach, free to enter and left open to wander at will!

It’s in surprisingly good condition considering it was abandoned around 300 years ago. I think it’s even more remarkable considering what the castle represents, having been built in the 16th century for one of Shetland’s most despicable characters – Laurence Bruce.

Laurence had been appointed as Sheriff of Shetland and began treating these islands like his personal playground. He cheated the locals out of taxes and helped himself to anything he fancied. It was only when he fell out with his equally despicable boss, Earl Patrick Stewart, that things began to change.

The Shetlanders realised that the enemy of their enemy was their friend, working with Laurence against the Earl. Patrick even attacked Muness Castle in 1608, but his small army was forced to leave before they could break in and finish Laurence off! It seems the Sheriff was very lucky to escape both his master and the locals to live out the rest of his days in this grand home.

Discover Unst’s Viking Heritage

Few places in Scotland have stronger Norse roots than Unst. This would have been one of the first islands the Vikings spotted as they crossed the sea, so it’s no surprise Norse archaeological sites are abundant here. Better than that, at Haroldswick you can’t miss an enormous, reconstructed longship beside a replica longhouse.

When you see sites like this at the Viking Unst Project, the past begins to come back to life. Inside the stone house, it’s easy to imagine sagas being told around the hearth or weapons lining the walls.

The boat is nothing short of a work of art. It’s known as Skidbladner and was built in Sweden. Originally, it was intended to be sailed to America, but the crew got no further than Shetland before abandoning ship!

Their loss is definitely our gain.

I like to imagine this home and ship belonged to Jarl Thorbjorn Hrollaugsson, a Viking chief we know lived on Unst. One day, his son Anlaf was killed on a raid and the body returned to Unst with a message: “Return Anlaf’s sword to his father with Goturm’s greeting.”

Thorbjorn was furious, but imagine his glee when news came that Goturm’s ship had just been wrecked on a rock nearby. The jarl was planning all the ways he could make this man pay; now he was trapped with no escape. Anlaf’s sister Auslag was horrified by her father’s words. Secretly, she helped the Viking leader flee.

He promised to return one day and repay her properly for saving his life. Goturm would eventually go on to conquer a large chunk of England, being crowned Guthrum, King of East Anglia.

Now vastly wealthy, his ship with the yellow sail appeared again in Unst. Most of the locals were terrified at the sight, but not Auslag. She marched down to the beach to meet her old friend and was suitably rewarded for her lifesaving kindness!

Visit The Unst Heritage Centre

While the Viking Age is an important period for Shetland, that’s just one chapter in a long story. There is no better place to understand more about the life and history of Unst than at its heritage centre. I love a good local museum; there’s often lots more care, attention and personality in them than the big places.

There’s a lot of hidden history on Unst, from the geological foundations of the island to the knitting heritage and much more. It’s not a huge place, but there’s a lot to keep you busy!

Don’t forget to stop in at the Boat Haven to learn about the island’s relationship with the sea. Unst might be small, but it sits in rich fishing grounds. Thousands of tonnes of herring were once caught here every month and you can learn all about this important bit of local history surrounded by beautiful old boats!

Visit Da Peerie Rock Shop!

This might be one of the stranger things to do in Unst, but since it’s run by my friend Fabien, you need to know about it! Stop by Da Peerie Rock Shop in Uyeasound and pick up a few interesting stones and crystals while you’re there. Fabien is a meteorite hunter, so he knows his stuff!

This is also where you’ll find Le Petit Cafe – an honesty cafe with a French theme. Hot drinks and tasty snacks with a beautiful view out to sea. If you see Fabien while you’re there, tell him I say hi and ask if he’s found any interesting meteorites lately!

Watch The Wild Skies On Unst

Speaking of meteorites, there is nowhere better in Shetland to watch the night sky than on Unst. That’s why this wee island is home to the Wild Skies Shetland group! Unst is so far north that it gets both the longest summer days and longest winter nights. I can’t promise the sky will be clear enough to see the Northern Lights, but that’s not all this project is about.

As you explore Unst, you’ll no doubt spot some information panels and audio stops around the island. Some tell stories about the night sky, like how the Vikings used it for navigation. Others tell stories of the folklore, myths and legends related to the sky.

Side note – If you want to know of more myths and legends from Shetland, this book is brilliant!

My personal favourite part of the Unst Sky Trail is the audiobench at Saxavord. It tells you all about the Mirrie Dancers, otherwise known as the Northern Lights, with a speaker to play local descriptions of the phenomenon. Even if you aren’t able to spend a night on Unst to experience it, the view from here over the firth is spectacular.

Walk to Hermaness and Muckle Flugga

If there is one thing to do on Unst that really sets it apart, it’s the walk at Hermaness National Nature Reserve. This isn’t just a walk to see some nice nature, it’s a hike to the most northerly point in Scotland! Here’s the full route to follow.

To do the full walk does take three or four hours, but the views are more than worth it! The cliffs are stunning, the sea views apparently endless and when the seabirds are everywhere. At the right time of year you’ll see gannets everywhere, possibly puffins and almost definitely Bonxies! Don’t let the funny nickname fool you, the Great Skua picked it up for their habit of bonking people on the head…

The full hike should only really be done if you’re not rushing for the last ferry. Especially since this is somewhere worth taking the time to appreciate. Make it all the way to the north point, with the view of Muckle Flugga Lighthouse, you can be pretty sure you’re standing further north than anybody else in Scotland at that moment!

From there, it’s a short slope up to the highest point before you reach a boardwalk that reaches pretty much all the way back to the beginning. The views over to Saxavord are stunning on a clear day and even better at sunset!

Look Out For Shetland Ponies!

Of course, Shetland is famous for its ponies and you will almost definitely spot some on Unst! These beautiful beasts are bred on the island and I was even lucky enough to spot a foal having a feed during my last trip there. Anybody hoping for a similar sight will want to visit around May!

Shetland ponies are more than just a cute gimmick, they’re an important part of local heritage and customs. They’ve been roaming these islands for thousands of years and are perfectly adapted for the conditions. Their smaller size means they need less food and can find easier shelter when wild storms rage across Unst.

They would be used to carry baskets of peat back from the moors to crofter’s homes or seaweed for fertiliser. Pound for pound, they’re actually one of the strongest equine breeds in the world! Unbelievably, they were even exported for work in coal mines, being the perfect size to pull carts along small shafts!

Get Artistic At Glansin Glass

Don’t think for a second that the only things to do in Unst involve history and nature! There’s a chance for you to flex your artistic skills with Cheryl at Glansin Glass. She creates some incredibly beautiful fused glass pieces, inspired by the Shetland Isles. Even the name Glansin comes from the word for shine in the Old Norn language that was once spoken widely in Unst.

It’s not all about what you can buy though, this is a place for you to create. Book onto one of the Glansin Glass workshops to create your own piece. If I managed to do it, anybody can! Don’t worry about the mask in the picture, I was there when Covid was still a lingering threat.

Shetland Reel Gin Distillery

After an exhausting trip around Unst, you’re going to need a drink. Thankfully, the island boasts its own distillery, although it’s not whisky – this is for gin! Scotland is a leading producer of gin, with hundreds of incredible brands around the country. I’m not just saying it for the article, Shetland Reel Gin genuinely is one of my favourites.

I first tried it on the ferry to Shetland, so couldn’t wait to visit Unst and book onto a guided tasting. The original itself is great, I prefer the Ocean Sent and be very careful if you try the Up Helly Aa Navy Strength – it almost blew my head off! Make sure you’ve got a designated driver with you, a lift organised or prepare to walk.

Where to Eat on Unst

As a small island, you’re naturally limited for options of where to eat on Unst. For years, the most popular place for lunches was Victoria’s Tea Room, but they’ve taken to the road! Have a look on their Facebook page to be sure where the Victoria’s horsebox is for cakes and coffee!

The former tea room has now become Da Otter’s Neuk serving the best of local Shetland produce for lunches and dinners. The Baltasound Hotel does also offer dinner, but that can be limited to residents only, so check in advance! Another option is the Final Checkout Shop, which offers hot food but also gives you the chance to grab some picnic stuff to enjoy in one of the many scenic spots around Unst!

Where to Stay on Unst

I really believe that getting the most out of Unst involves staying the night. Not only does it allow you to take your time exploring the island, but you can stargaze or enjoy a late evening sunset on Hermaness. I always try and book a room at Mailersta B&B, where Anita is the perfect host and does a great breakfast!

She only has two bedrooms though, so can easily be booked up in advance, so here are other options:

The Old Pier Cottage – A one bedroom cottage right beside the Peerie Rock Shop in a beautiful waterside spot.

Clingera Studio Rooms – A small collection of studio rooms for those who don’t need much space!

Leagarth House – With three bedrooms, this is the perfect spot for slightly larger groups or families!

If you’re looking for other things to do when in the Shetland Isles, have a look at my guide to the capital Lerwick. I even put together a video all about Up Helly Aa, the annual fire festival, which is a true bucket list activity!