Complete Guide To Visiting the Isle of May
Scotland has plenty of islands that get lots of attention, like the dramatic Isle of Skye or the history-packed Mull. However, if you want to go somewhere a little more off the beaten path, you need to visit the Isle of May!
Not only is it a place full of natural beauty, with dramatic cliffs and spectacular views out to sea, but it’s got a long history and some very special residents. The Isle of May just happens to be one of the best places in Scotland to see puffins!
Considering it’s so close to Edinburgh and the busy Kingdom of Fife, it amazes me how few people know of this wee island. It’s only accessible some of the year and numbers of visitors are strictly regulated, so you’ll need to book this in advance. This guide to visiting the Isle of May will be a big help to make sure you get the most out of your time on this special wee island!
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Where is the Isle of May?
While most of Scotland’s islands lie off the north or west coasts, the Isle of May sits in the Firth of Forth. That’s the stretch of water between Fife and Edinburgh, although this island is almost out in the sea itself! It can easily be seen from either coast on a clear day, but it’s so low lying that it often flies under the radar.
It’s only around one mile long by half a mile wide, so it’s easy to walk around and explore it fully in just a few hours. There are a few slopes and small hills, but nothing too strenuous. Still, make sure to bring some good hiking shoes when you visit the Isle of May!
Today the island is managed by Nature Scot as a National Nature Reserve and is one of the most important seabird breeding sites in Scotland. Access is restricted to boat trips during the main visitor season, helping to protect the wildlife that makes the island so special.
How to Get to the Isle of May
The only way to visit the Isle of May is by boat with the best options for access from Anstruther in the East Neuk of Fife. We booked with the May Princess Trip and everybody was very well looked after by the crew! In total, the trip takes around 4.5-5 hours and that includes 2.5-3 hours ashore. Every day is different, depending on the tides.
If you want to explore the East Neuk of Fife more during your visit – read this guide first!
The journey across to the Isle of May takes around 45 minutes and if the wind blows the wrong direction, it can be rough! There are toilets on the island but no cafe, food options or bins, so take everything you need with you and back again. Here’s a handy list to help you know what to bring to May:
- Sea Sickness Tablets – it can get rough…
- Motion Sickness Goggles – you’ll look daft but they DO help!
- A Good Wind & Waterproof Jacket – If it packs away small then perfect!
- Lunch and snacks
- Bottles of water
- Small, compact binoculars – Nothing is too far away, but these definitely help!
- Power bank – It’s amazing what 5 hours of taking pictures does to your phone battery!
Because access depends heavily on weather and sea conditions, trips can occasionally be cancelled at short notice. It is always wise to build some flexibility into your plans, particularly if travelling from further afield.
The visitor season generally runs from spring through late summer, though exact dates vary each year. Be aware that while the boat trips keep running and there are still things to do on the Isle of May, the puffins will leave around the end of July!
Where To See Puffins on the Isle of May
For many people, a visit to the Isle of May means one thing above all else – puffins.
Every year, usually between April and July, thousands of puffins return to the island to breed. During this period the Isle of May becomes third largest colony in Scotland and one of the best places to see these comical wee birds close up.
Unlike many wildlife experiences where sightings are never guaranteed, puffins here are often remarkably easy to observe. They nest in burrows throughout the island, and visitors frequently find themselves only a few feet away as birds waddle across the grass carrying beakfuls of sand eels.
There is something endlessly entertaining about puffins. They look like daft wee birds, the clowns of the natural world. Did you know that a group is known as a Circus of puffins and their babies are pufflings. So just make sure to stick to the paths and avoid accidentally putting your foot through a puffin’s bedroom ceiling!
They can be seen right around the island, but the best spot I found to see them is above Bishop’s Cove on the North Plateau!
Wildlife On The Island
Although puffins steal much of the attention, they are only one part of an astonishing wildlife spectacle.
The island hosts one of the largest seabird colonies in Britain. Depending on when you visit, you may encounter guillemots packed tightly onto cliff ledges, razorbills balancing precariously on rocky outcrops and kittiwakes or fulmars filling the air with their distinctive calls. Watch your feet for eider ducks who really won’t move out your way if they find a comfy spot on the path!
The noise can be extraordinary, as can the smell. During peak breeding season the island seems alive with constant movement and sound. Tens of thousands of birds crowd the cliffs, creating one of the most impressive wildlife experiences in Scotland.
Grey seals are another major attraction. Throughout much of the year they can be seen hauled out along the shoreline or swimming in the waters around the island. During autumn and winter, long after visitor boats have stopped running, the island becomes one of the most important grey seal breeding sites in the country.
There’s so much wildlife around it’s hard to list them all and you’re likely to spot more passing by the Isle of May. That includes gannets soaring around and dolphins or porpoises swimming on past!
Isle of May’s Religious History
I would say the wildlife is what the Isle of May is famous for, but as always, there’s more to this place than meets the eye. People have been living on and visiting the island for over a thousand years.
Early Christian monks were always on the lookout for remote places to establish monasteries and worship in isolation, so many islands in the forth became home to holy men – Inchcolm, the Bass Rock and the Isle of May. St Ethernan is said to have set up a religious community here in the 7th Century.
Those undefended holy sites were easy pickings for the Vikings and sadly St Adrian is said to have been amongst those slaughtered here in the 9th century. The ruins of the chapel we see today have their origins in a church built by King David I in the 1100s, with monks tasked with praying for the souls of all Kings of Scots.
For the next 450 years, this would be a popular royal pilgrimage site, with a special boat reserved for the journey whenever the King & Queen required it.
It’s a quiet place today, falling into ruin after the Reformation in 1560 which rendered holy sites connected with saints obsolete.
Scotland’s First Lighthouse
As the religious importance of the Isle of May faded, and another chapter in its story began.
The sea around the island has always been dangerous. Ships entering the Firth of Forth had to negotiate reefs, rocks and powerful currents, and the Isle of May became an important landmark for sailors.
In 1635, Scotland’s very first lighthouse was established here, but it didn’t look anything like a modern lighthouse. It was this rough tower with a huge brazier on top, burning coal that had to be hoisted up with a pulley. Three men kept this fire going all year round, burning 400 tonnes of coal annually in the process.
It was a dangerous job and tragically, in the 1790s, one of the island’s lighthouse keepers and his family died from fumes. Ash and waste had built up below the tower which had been set alight by falling coals and the smoke then blew into their window. Only an infant daughter was found alive three days later.
That wasn’t the only problem with the coal-fired lighthouse. The flame was pretty useless for navigation – one minute it could be a roaring fire belching out smoke and the next minute, the wind could blow it in the opposite direction and sailors would struggle to make out the light.
The lighthouse was replaced by Robert Stevenson’s much fancier light in the early nineteenth century, and the island became home to an increasingly complex collection of navigational equipment. These odd pipes belong to the pressurised air system that fed the huge fog horns
Exploring the Island
One of the pleasures of visiting the Isle of May is its accessibility. A criss-crossing network of paths leads between the harbour, lighthouse, seabird colonies and historic sites. The terrain is generally manageable, though sturdy footwear is recommended as paths can be uneven.
The island’s small size means that it never feels overwhelming. Within a few hours you can experience dramatic cliffs, historic buildings, wildlife colonies and panoramic views across the Firth of Forth. Above all, I would say that the Isle of May has character and you can see that as you explore it. There’s a lot more variety than some other small islands like the ever-impressive Staffa!
On clear days the views are spectacular. To the north lies the coastline of Fife, while to the south the shores of East Lothian stretch towards Bass Rock and beyond. You might never want to leave, but unfortunately that’s a treat reserved only for Nature Scot’s rangers!
Where to Stay Near The Isle of May
Since you’ll be visiting the Isle of May as a day trip, the picturesque fishing villages of the East Neuk are an ideal base.
Anstruther
This is the obvious spot since it’s where the boats leave from! There’s also lots of options to keep you fed and watered around the town.
The Waterfront – A busy hotel just a stone’s throw from the edge of the harbour!
Harbour Inn – Another very good quality hotel, just a short walk from the water.
Shorefront Apartment – The sea views are excellent and the living spaces luxurious in this 3 bed apartment.
St Monans
House On The Square – Perfectly central, in a beautifully decorated historic townhouse, this place sleeps 6 comfortably!
No 3 By The Sea – This wee cottage is better for smaller groups or couples, in a great location with a woodburner to warm up after a day by the sea!
Pittenweem
Merchant’s House – For larger groups of up to 7, the views are spectacular and the interiors beautifully furnished and well equipped for your stay.
Seaspray – Sleeping up to 4 people, this traditional building right by the water is fitted out to an incredibly high standard. You won’t want to leave!
Where To Visit Next
If you’re looking at ticking off small Scottish islands, why not another less-visited spot like the Isle of Ulva? For somewhere truly unique, the St Kilda archipelago is a bucket list activity! Or if you really want to see lots of islands, head to Oban as an island gateway base!
For those looking to stay on the east coast, don’t miss the famous town of St Andrews nearby and it’s well worth heading a little further north to explore Angus!
Wherever you end up, I hope you have a fantastic time exploring Scotland!
If you’d like to visit the Isle of May, then how about going on a Scotland’s Stories Tour?
Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!
If you’re happier exploring on your own, you might find a copy of the Scotland’s Stories Book useful. It’s packed full of stories based on real places around Scotland! Grab a copy of the book here!
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