Visiting the Isle of Coll – A Rugged Island Paradise
Visiting the Isle of Coll had been on my radar for far too long before I finally made the journey. This is one of the quieter corners of Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, a place away from the crowds. You won’t find tourist castles or Instagram hotspots here, the things to do in Coll are much more relaxing!
Think of strolling along quiet sandy beaches, picnics on the machair while watching the wildlife and feasting on local dishes before gazing at some of the darkest night skies in Scotland. The Isle of Coll is a place to just exist for a while and forget about the world out there!
Not only is Coll a rugged island paradise in real life, it’s also the inspiration for one of Scotland’s best loved children’s book series! The fictional island of Struay in the Katie Morag books is based on Coll, making the perfect Scottish gift for a kid who loves reading. Have a look at that series here!
Whether you’re planning a short break or a longer island-hopping adventure, here is everything you need to know about visiting the Isle of Coll!
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If you’re visiting Coll as part of longer trip to Oban then this Travel to Oban Itinerary & Planning Guide is going to be a massive help.
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How to Get to the Isle of Coll
The Isle of Coll lies on the outskirts of the Inner Hebrides, west of the Isle of Mull and a short hop from Tiree. It’s not a big place, just 13 miles long by three miles wide, with a rugged landscape of low hills, fringed by at least 20 sandy beaches!
To get to Coll, you’ll usually take the ferry from Oban which takes just under three hours. You’ll absolutely have to book a space well in advance, especially if you want to take a vehicle. The ferry is shared with the route to Tiree, so there’s limited space for cars, although usually plenty for passengers!
Have a look here for other islands you can visit from Oban!
This has to be one of the most beautiful ferry journeys in Scotland. Those travelling to Coll will pass through the Sound of Mull, with spectacular views of cliffs, lighthouses and distant mountains. Keep an eye out for seabirds, dolphins and whales along the way!
Around 170 people live on Coll, spread out along its length, but with most staying in its main settlement Arinagour. That’s where the ferry arrives and will be your first introduction to the island. It’s where you will find the essentials like the food shop, post office, hotel and fuel station.
Driving On Coll
You can easily visit Coll as a foot passenger, but there’s no public transport here. If you want to get to some of the more remote things to do on Coll, then you’re going to need a vehicle. I found having a car invaluable, but the roads on the island are narrow with passing places, so you need to know what you’re doing.
Keep your eyes open for wandering livestock and always be aware of where the nearest passing place is. Don’t park in those passing places or in peoples driveways! Here’s the best place to find car hire in Scotland and if you’re nervous about driving here, this article might help you!
While it does take more effort and time, bikes are a very practical way to get around Coll! The biggest perk to using a bike is that you don’t have to worry about finding a parking space in some of the quiter corners of the island.
If you haven’t brought your own then you can hire them from the post office or e-bikes from the community centre.
A Quick History of Coll
Every Scottish island has its own unique history and the Isle of Coll is no exception! Habitation stretches back thousands of years and with a number of Old Norse place names, it’s clear Vikings made their home here. From the 13th century, the island came under control of the Lords of the Isles.
It would fall to a branch of Clan Maclean, separate from the main line who lived at Duart Castle. The first chief was Iain Garbh or Rough John who was granted Coll in the mid-1400s and his descendants ruled here for centuries. In the late-15o0s, the Macleans of Duart tried to invade their cousins but were defeated, decapitated and their heads thrown in the river!
The island’s population grew to around 1000 people in the late 1700s, although that was probably more than it could truly handle. A large reason for the growth was a boom in the price of kelp (burnt seaweed). Landowners moved people to islands like Coll to cash in on the industry and when that collapsed, the population drastically declined.
If you want a fascinating insight to what life was once like in Coll, it’s one of the stops in a famous travel book from 1773. Samuel Johnson and James Boswell enjoyed the hospitality of the laird on their way to Iona and this book which covers both of their accounts is an incredible read.
The Best Things to Do on the Isle of Coll
Head To My Favourite Beach On Coll
One of the biggest reasons to visit Coll is its coastline. With twenty large beaches, you’re spoilt for choice around the island. Some are beautiful stretches of golden sand, others a jumbled collection of pebbles and shells, all have their own personality. Almost all beaches require at least a little bit of a walk, but nothing worth enjoying comes easy.
My personal favourite beach on Coll was Traigh Tuath or North Beach. We popped into the art gallery run by Kit Poulson on arrival to Arinagour and he actually drew us a map to reach this sandy beach. It did involve a bit of a trek over some dunes, but it was well worth the effort.
We had the whole place to ourselves, if you don’t count the sheep grazing nearby. If it had been a little warmer then I might have been tempted to go for a dip. Instead, we settled on enjoying a picnic on the machair while enjoying the view north to the Isle of Rum.
Hike Up Ben Feall
While it might be a flat island, there’s one hike on Coll that I’d highly recommend. Ben Feall at the southwest corner of the island isn’t actually the highest point, but it gives a spectacular view. It only really takes ten minutes to climb, but you can see much of the southern half of Coll, from the sandy beach in one direction to the rocky coast in the other.
Just before the beach, the low mound that can be seen is actually the site of an Iron Age fort. Some evidence of how long Coll has been inhabited! From here, take a stroll down to the beach which you can turn into a long circular if you’ve got the energy. Here’s the route!
Parts of the longer route can get very boggy though, so you might want to pick up a pair of these waterproof boot covers!
Remember The Last Laird of Coll
Before you head down from Ben Feall, you can’t miss the stone bench dedicated to the Last Laird of Coll. Kenneth Stewart inherited the island as a young man in 1942 and that included its terrible financial position. From what I’ve read, he worked hard but in the end was forced to sell up.
Apparently, his fate was predicted by the 17th century prophet Coinneach Odhar otherwise known as the Brahan Seer who claimed the Last Laird of Coll would be a Kenneth who was lame and had no male children. The Laird’s life is told in a good book that you can read here!
The bench looks out over his home and was his favourite view on the island. He knew how to pick a good spot!
Look For Seals At Feall Beach
We’re blessed with wildlife around Scotland, so one of my favourite things to do on Coll was go seal spotting. There were a few playing around on an island right across from our accommodation, but it was down at Feall Beach that they really made themselves known.
Emma and I were walking away from the beach when we heard what sounded like a dog howling in panic. Scrambling over some rocks to make sure everything was ok, we stumbled upon dozens of noisy seals. They were all having a great time in the waves and if it hadn’t started raining, we’d have spent a good chunk of the day sitting watching them all!
Visit the RSPB Coll Nature Reserve
There’s lots more wildlife to find on a visit to Coll, especially birds. The mix of wetland, farmland, moorland, dunes and machair provides habitats for a wide range of species, including Corncrakes and Skylarks. Both have an incredibly distinctive call and I like to use the free Merlin App to find out what I’m listening to!
At Totronald, you can find an RSPB visitor Centre on the edge of the reserve, but there’s also a parking area near Crossapoll/Feall Beaches. Be careful as you walk across the beautiful machair that there’s nothing hiding amongst the grass and wildflowers!
Corncrakes are difficult to see because they spend much of their time concealed in tall vegetation. Hearing one calling from the grass can be a more realistic experience than spotting the bird itself, but that is part of the appeal. Their presence is a reminder of the importance of traditional farming landscapes and the conservation work taking place on the island.
Spring and summer are particularly rewarding for birdwatchers, so bring binoculars and move quietly!
Discover Coll’s Remarkable Dark Skies
Coll is not just a destination for daytime exploration. It is also one of Scotland’s most celebrated places for stargazing!
In December 2013, Coll received recognition as a Dark Sky Community from the International Dark-Sky Association, reflecting the island’s exceptionally low levels of light pollution and the community’s commitment to protecting its night skies.
On a clear evening, the difference can be extraordinary. Away from the brighter lights of mainland towns and cities, thousands of stars become visible, and the Milky Way can appear as a bright band across the sky.
Autumn, winter and early spring are particularly good times to visit if stargazing is a priority, because the nights are longer and properly dark. The Northern Lights are an occasional bonus when solar activity and weather conditions align! In Scottish folklore, they’re known as the Nimble Men – fairy like creatures who dance across the sky!
Make sure to wrap up warm if you’re planning any stargazing!
Explore A Historic Graveyard
You might think me weird, but I know a lot of people who share my love of exploring old graveyards! There are two to see when you visit Coll, one of which takes a lot more effort to get to. The easier to reach is at Killunaig, just beside the road with a large car park.
This is probably the oldest church site on the island and you can see the ruins of a medieval chapel in the grounds. The ground has built up so high around it over the centuries that it actually looks like an underground chamber! While there are no ancient stones to see, this is where many chiefs of this branch of the Macleans likely lay buried.
For the other interesting graveyard to visit on Coll, you’ll need to walk the length of Crossapoll beach. Perched above the dunes at the far end, in danger of falling into the sea, is Crossapoll Graveyard. It feels very quiet and remote standing there looking out to sea. Keep an eye out for the Commonwealth War Graves, all the same size, shape and style as each other.
Like many Scottish islands, there are graves that remember just “A Sailor From The Great War” as unidentified bodies washed up on the beach below. Always worth taking a moment to remember.
Marvel At The Whalebone Arch
You might have spotted it as you drove onto the island and while I guess it’s not exactly a thing to do on Coll, the whalebone arch has a story worth telling.
When an enormous Fin Whale washed up on a beach in Coll in 2004, the National Museum of Scotland decided that they wanted it for their collection. The locals, however, wanted to use the jawbones to create an arch like many other communities have done before them! When news came that the NMS were sending a crew to take the carcass away, the people of Coll leapt to action.
In the night, they cut out the jawbone of the whale and dragged it away to a secret spot with a tractor. A bone-hunt followed, with officials scouring the Isle of Coll! Eventually, the jaw was handed in and a compromise made. The museum would take the real bones and commissioned the fibreglass replica that we can see above the ferry terminal today.
The most annoying part of the whole story for me – that Fin Whale isn’t even on display at the NMS in Edinburgh! Nicknamed Collette, it just sits in a store somewhere wasted…
Have A Wander Around Arinagour
Don’t forget that one of the best things to do on Coll is just slow down and have a wander. The main village of Arinagour isn’t large, but it’s very picturesque. Follow the signs past the whitewashed houses to Kip Poulson’s art gallery. If you see a blue beach hut style shed, you’re in the right place and he’s always up for a chat.
Back down in the main village, the Post Office doubles up as a gift shop called An Acarsaid. For all your food needs, pop into Coll Stores rather than bringing stuff from the mainland. It’s well stocked and a good way to support the local economy and be a responsible tourist! They also have a healthy stock of Coll gin since the distillery doesn’t take visitors itself.
Lastly, it’s where you’ll find the Coll Hotel and Urchin for lunch, dinner and drinks to keep you going!
Is There A Castle On Coll?
It’s almost a rule that every Scottish island needs a castle and Coll is no different. Breacachadh is the name associated with two castles on the southern side of Coll. The earlier castle dates to the medieval period, while the more modern version was built in the 1700s, when comfort was valued a little higher than defence!
However, both the Old and New Breacachadh Castles are private homes and not open for visitors. You an easily see them when you climb Ben Feall, but respect the owner’s privacy rather than try and creep up the driveway to get pictures!
Where to Eat on the Isle of Coll
Coll may be small, but there are some excellent options for food and drink. The west coast of Scotland is an incredible natural larder after all, so you’re not going to be disappointed!
The Coll Hotel
The Coll Hotel is the island’s only pub and hotel, so thankfully it’s incredible! It’s won numerous awards and after our meal there, I can vouch for them. The restaurant focuses on Scottish cooking and local produce, with seafood and Hebridean ingredients featuring prominently.
Even if you aren’t eating there, the hotel is a social hub to enjoy a drink and chat with locals after a day exploring!
The Urchin
For another option, The Urchin is a newer cafe and restaurant, but run by the same faces that made Cafe Canna such a success! Unfortunately, I was on Coll the same two days that they were closed so didn’t get to try the food. I’ve heard fantastic things and I’ll definitely be trying it out when I next get to visit Coll!
Coll Stores
If you are staying in self-catering accommodation or planning a picnic, Coll Stores is the place to get your supplies. It’s well stocked, but you might still have to be a little flexible with your recipes! There’s so many great beaches out and about Coll, you’re going to want to grab some picnic supplies here before you go.
Where to Stay on the Isle of Coll
Without an abundance of options, you’ll definitely want to book well in advance for your trip to Coll. Arinagour hosts most of the options and makes a perfect central base to explore the island.
Coll Hotel
The Coll Hotel is a good choice if you want accommodation with a restaurant and bar on site.
Its position beside the water in Arinagour makes it a convenient base for exploring the island, particularly if you arrive on foot or by bicycle. After a day spent walking along the coast, you can return to a comfortable room and enjoy dinner without having to travel elsewhere.
Tigh na Mara
We stayed at the fantastic Tigh na Mara Guesthouse instead, just a short walk away from the hotel. The view across to the small seal colony was great and the room was comfortable, warm and quiet. Not only did they provide a brilliant cooked breakfast, but they offered packed lunches and even a cooked dinner in the evening if we booked that in the morning!
Where To Visit After Coll?
There are plenty more Hebridean Islands to visit after the Isle of Coll. Since Tiree shares a ferry route, it makes a logical choice for where to head next! You can just as easily go back to Oban and explore a number of different islands from there!
With all of the close Maclean links, I think the Isle of Mull is a great place to head next and see the other side of the family history. It’s a lot busier than Coll, with far more attractions, but there are still plenty of quiet corners to discover.
If you’d like to visit Coll as part of a bespoke Scotland’s Stories tour, get in touch here! Or if you’re looking for stories to help you plan a trip anywhere in Scotland, you can find them in the Scotland’s Stories book – Pick up a copy here!
Visiting Coll as part of a trip based in Oban? Download this Oban Itinerary & Planning Guide to make sure you don’t miss anything!
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