How To Spend The Perfect Day In Iona – Scotland’s Sacred Isle

There really is nothing else in Scotland quite like spending a day in Iona. Known as the birthplace of Scottish Christianity, every year thousands follow in the footsteps of 1400 years of pilgrims to this wee island. It’s a special place with a peaceful feeling, crammed with history including the final resting place for dozens of ancient Scottish Kings.

As a Scottish storyteller, this is one of my favourite places in the entire country. I’ve visited Iona in the quiet winter months, busy summer season, during storms, heatwaves and even attended a church service in the old abbey. It’s somewhere I know well and hopefully, this guide to Iona will help you get the most out of your own trip.

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How To Get To Iona

Getting to Iona is part of its magic. This tiny island, just a few miles long by one mile wide, sits just off the coast of the Isle of Mull. The route to get there isn’t quick and it isn’t the easiest either, with at least two ferries involved!

For most people, the journey to Iona begins in the town of Oban on Scotland’s west coast. A 50-minute ferry from there to Craignure on Mull is then followed by around an hour drive to Fionnphort. The Isle of Iona is easily visible across the water and one more ferry takes you over in less than ten minutes.

Visitors aren’t allowed to take their vehicles onto Iona, but it’s an easy island to walk around. There are also bicycles to hire from the Iona Craft Shop if you’d rather pedal than plod!

For anybody using public transport, you can book the entire trip with West Coast Motors here. If you do have a car, I’d highly recommend spending some time exploring the Isle of Mull too!

Visit Iona Abbey – Scotland’s Spiritual Home

The biggest reason people make the trip to Iona is to visit Iona Abbey. St Columba arrived here in 563 to set up his monastery and it soon became one of the most important religious centres in Europe. Pilgrims travelled hundreds of miles to get here and you’ll be walking in their footsteps! Anybody interested in the early days of Iona might enjoy Adomnan’s Life of Columba!

The present building was founded in the year 1200 by Ranald, son of the warlord Somerled, on the same site as Columba’s church. It was the burial place of Kings and Clan Chiefs and that makes it more than a spiritual site. As you wander the Reilig Odhrain, know that great figures from Scottish history, like Macbeth or Kenneth MacAlpine lie somewhere nearby.

The very first Celtic crosses were carved in Iona and one of the oldest has stood near the door for 1200 years. Inside, the feeling of history and peace is almost overwhelming. Admire the detailed stonework, the carved graveslabs that line the walls and don’t miss the small museum!

You could easily spend the whole day in Iona Abbey if you’re not careful. It’s managed by Historic Scotland and there’s no need to book tickets, but I’d recommend getting there early to avoid the crowds. One of my special memories is attending a Sunday service in the abbey, which is entirely free and open to anybody!

Walk To The White Strand of the Monks

The next stop for the perfect day in Iona takes you north to one of the most beautiful places on the island. Traigh Bhan Nam Monach is a stunning beach of bright white sand with perfect turquoise water. It’s typical of many Hebridean beaches and a popular spot for a dip on a sunny day.

There is another side to this beach though, betrayed by its translated name – the White Strand of the Monks. Sadly, this wasn’t where Columba’s followers used to come for a paddle, it’s the scene of a tragic massacre. From the 8th to the 10th centuries, Viking raids plagued the island and this was where some of the monks made a brave but futile stand.

Expect to take around 20-30 minutes of walking to reach the beach. Part of that involves walking across a field so make sure to shut any gates behind you! It’s a great spot to relax, shut out the world and even enjoy a quiet packed lunch.

Climb Dun Ì – The Highest Point

As you walk to the beach, you can’t miss the highest point on Iona – Dun Ì. Not everybody is capable, but it’s easier than it looks and takes around half an hour detour to get to the top. This guide will help you, but there’s no need to do the entire walk.

At only 101m high, you’re not exactly soaring, but the views are extraordinary. The rugged mountains of Mull peer back at you from the east and you should be able to make out the lump of Staffa to the north. If it’s really clear, you should be able to make out Coll, Tiree and even Skye a way in the distance.

Pop Into The Iona Heritage Centre

There’s a lot more to the history of Iona than just a religious site. After the Reformation saw the abbey abandoned in the 16th century, life carried on here. Step into the Iona Heritage Centre and learn all about the people that called this island home. Found in the old church manse, there’s a lot of information crammed into one small building.

Exhibitions explain how islanders sustained themselves through crofting and fishing. There are stories of notable characters, both good and bad, who made their impact on Iona. There’s information on the unique geology, flora and fauna of the island. It’s an essential stop during a rainy day in Iona, but well worth a visit during any trip!

Stop At The Iona Nunnery

Everybody who spends a day on Iona will walk past one building and most barely acknowledge it. If you’re racing to the abbey then it’s easy to miss the ruins of the Iona Nunnery, but you should now have time to take it in properly. There’s plenty of history here, it was built at exactly the same time as the abbey!

Ranald’s sister Beatrice was the first Prioress and her nuns followed a life of prayer and contemplation. Most members would have been from wealthy families, either illegitimate daughters or widowed wives of noblemen. Any female pilgrims would have stayed in these walls during their trip to Iona!

There’s a strange surprise hiding in the stonework if you follow the side that borders the main road. Above the window is a Sheela na Gig, an overtly sexual carving of a woman, although very eroded now. We aren’t entirely sure what they were for or why it’s carved specifically on the nunnery!

Admire The Bay at the Back of the Ocean

With time never being on my side, it took me until around a dozen trips to Iona before I explored any further. Eventually, I discovered that one of the true highlights of the island was worth dedicating the time to. If you follow this trail to the South End of Iona then after around 40 minutes you’ll reach the Bay at the Back of the Ocean.

Standing on the island’s western edge, the Atlantic stretches out before you with nothing but waves for thousands of miles. If you aren’t limited to just one day in Iona and have the chance to spend the night, this is where to come for a sunset! As you cross the soft machair grass, look for the evidence of the ruts from the old runrig farming system.

Reach St Columba’s Bay

After hiking over a low hill, skirting a wee loch and picking your way along a small track, you’ll finally reach an incredible view. This is Columba’s Bay, where the Irish saint is said to have first landed in 563 with his 12 companions. Not many visitors to Iona make the journey to get here, making it one of the most serene places on this holy island.

There’s no sand here, just pebbles of all different colours and if you’re lucky then some will be the iconic green/white Iona Marble. A huge rock splits the beach in two, “Port of the Coracle” on the left and “Port of the False Man” to the right. There must be a tale behind that name, but it eludes me at the moment!

While the abbey might be an obvious spiritual place, packed with history and centuries of worship, this was the highlight for me. It’s somewhere that defies description, with an atmosphere that captured my soul. Remember that it takes around three hours to make the return trip here from the ferry terminal, so not everybody will manage it in one day on Iona.

Shop Local On Iona

The island might be small, but there’s a surprising amount of local shops for souvenirs while visiting Iona!

The Iona Craft Shop is probably my favourite, not just because of the selection of gifts, but because they do an incredible coffee as well! A little further along, Oran Crafts is the only shop that exclusively sells items made on Iona itself. Next door you’ll find beautiful jewellery in Aosdana too!

Right next to the abbey, pop into the Iona Community Shop for books and gifts. They also have a toilet that’s open even when the shop isn’t! A little further along, in the shadow of Dun I, is the Iona Pottery and Gallery in an old croft!

Where To Eat On Iona

No need to bring a packed lunch to Iona, there are some fantastic options to keep you fed!

Ailidh Pizza – Opposite the craft shop, this place does truly extraordinary pizza! Keep an eye on their Instagram for opening times and if the weather is bad then you can eat it in the NTS shelter nearby!

St Columba Larder – This is my usual go-to for a picnic, with good sandwiches (smoked trout recommended) and soup to go. The veggie haggis pie is a good option too but a lot of eating!

St Columba Hotel – If you want more of a proper, sit-down meal then this is the place! If you get takeaway from the larder opposite then you can use the hotel toilets too.

Rookery Cafe – Find this at the heritage centre for soups, sandwiches and home baking!

Martyr’s Bay Restaurant – A good option if you’re waiting on the ferry.

Argyll Hotel – Especially perfect if you’re looking for an evening meal!

The Creel Seafood Bar – While not technically on Iona, the seafood shack at Fionnphort on the Mull side of the ferry is too good not to mention. The special’s change but langoustine are always a highlight as is the scampi and chips!

Where To Stay On Iona

If you want to explore Iona at a more reasonable pace and enjoy it once the crowds have gone home, definitely spend a couple of nights on the island.

Ardoran House – A fantastic B&B with fantastic breakfast to start the day right and friendly hosts. Somewhere you’ll probably not want to leave!

Iona Pods – Tucked away beneath Dun I, these are some pretty fancy pods. There are two different sizes for two or four guests, all with their own kitchen.

Argyll Hotel – A small, homely hotel in the main village area of Iona, dating back to 1860!

St Columba Hotel – A modern and comfortable hotel right in the centre of the island, a short hop away from the abbey!

If you’d like to visit Iona, then why not visit on a Scotland’s Stories tour?

For those travelling Scotland on their own but looking for some help, you’ll find a copy of the Scotland’s Stories Book helpful!