Visiting Applecross & Scotland’s Best Road

Every year, whether alone or with friends, I find myself visiting Applecross. It’s a remote peninsula in Wester Ross, with views over Raasay to Skye, beautiful beaches and the feeling that life just moves a little slower here. Ever since I saw this place on Monty Halls Great Escape, I knew I had to visit Applecross. A man and his black dog living in a simple, restored croft…it was a show made for me.

It isn’t exactly a “hidden gem” anymore but why exactly do so many people make the long journey to visit Applecross?

How To Get To Applecross

The destination isn’t the only enjoyable part of visiting Applecross, the drive is an experience in itself. Up until 1975, the only ways to reach the scattered community here were by boat or a winding mountain road over the Bealach na Ba, which translates as the Pass of the Cattle.

If you’re a nervous driver or in a rickety vehicle then driving the Bealach na Ba probably isn’t for you. It’s the steepest road climb in the UK, single track the entire way and often shrouded in a thick fog. Reversing back into a passing place is a high stakes situation when you look at the steep drop down into the valley below.

That said, it’s surrounded by the most incredible scenery and the hairpin bends higher up make for an interesting journey. On a clear day, the views of the cliffs and tumbling waterfalls are outstanding and on a misty day, the atmosphere is unforgettable. For really foggy days, just keep your eyes on the road and hope you don’t meet a caravan coming the other way.

Driving the Bealach na Ba has become its own tourist attraction and don’t worry if you’re low on fuel. There’s a small self service petrol station on the other side that I always try and support. The more people that use it, the lower they can keep the prices. If you have far too much energy then plenty of maniacs even cycle this winding road!

Where To Stay While Visiting Applecross

Once you’re safely on the other side of the Bealach na Ba, Applecross is waiting for you. I usually stay at the Applecross Campsite in one of the wooden pods but there are plenty of caravan and tent pitches here. You’re only a five minute walk from the pub from here and have access to hot showers, working toilets and even electric heaters in the pods for chilly Scottish nights.

Alternatively, the Inn has rooms to rent and there are a host of bed and breakfasts around the peninsula. My advice would be to pick somewhere close to the pub to save a long stumble home in the dark. You’re definitely going to want to visit the pub.

Where To Eat & Drink in Applecross

I’m not a food critic so my opinion probably holds no weight, but I never visit Applecross without a meal at the Applecross Inn. A cosy pub with classic Scottish food is exactly what I need after the long journey here. As long as they’re available, I go for the langoustine and then the steak. The problem is that everything is cooked fresh so if you arrive too late in the day then you could be out of luck!

If inside is full then don’t worry! Across the road, with tables looking out towards Raasay, you can dine in the open air with the Applecross Inn-Side Out. The retro food van offers takeaway fish and chips or you can just enjoy a few beverages on the banks of Applecross Bay.

While the Applecross Inn might be famous, it isn’t the only option. The Walled Garden is my usual breakfast stop while visiting Applecross but they do offer dinner as well. If the evening meal is as good as their full Scottish breakfast then you’re in for a treat!

Set in the grounds of the 17th century Applecross House, this is as cute a wee place as you can find. The garden was resurrected by the owners in 2001 and now you get to eat the produce grown right outside the door. Add in the freshest seafood from just down the coast and you’re dining in one of the most sustainable places in Scotland.

Things To Do In Applecross

The pub and view across the bay is nice but why else should you make the journey to Applecross?

Drive 10 minutes north around the peninsula and you’ll come across the wide beach inventively named Sand. This is where Monty Halls croft was located for filming his Great Escape and while it’s a popular beach, it never feels busy. The perfect place for a quick dip.

If you’re feeling more adventurous then get in touch with Applecross Mountain & Sea Guides for some rock climbing or sea kayaking. To exercise your brain instead of your body then the Heritage Centre is open between March and October. For exercising your stomach then I’ve enjoyed delicious smoked salmon and cheese in the past from the Applecross Smokehouse.

Visiting Shieldaig

If you drove to Applecross over the Bealach na Ba, then definitely consider leaving by the coastal road instead. It might not be known as the Pass of the Cattle but maybe it should be. I’ve never driven around the peninsula without having to stop for a Highland Coo traffic jam.

It’s a relaxing drive, although still mostly single track and comes out near the village of Shieldaig. Looking out into Loch Shieldaig, it’s worth stopping here for a rest. The village was initially founded to train sailors to fight in the Napoleonic Wars and the island you see was planted with its distinct tall pines to be used as warship masts.

You’ll find a shop to stock up on supplies and great breakfast rolls from a cafe called Nanny’s. Sit quietly by the water and there’s a good chance you’ll even catch sight of some seals fishing nearby.

Explore Strome Castle

Whichever way you decide to visit Applecross, make a slight detour when you pass Lochcarron to the ruins of Strome Castle. There is no official parking area but I always find room next to the postbox and it’s only a minute to walk to the castle. Don’t be alarmed if a dog joins you, it’s incredibly friendly and just wants to play fetch!

Walk down the steps to the beach and carefully climb up inside the ruins with its photogenic arch. Just be careful wandering around the edge, Strome Castle was built on these cliffs for a reason. I enjoyed this place so much it made it onto my list of castles that deserve more visitors!

Strome Castle was besieged by the Mackenzies in 1602 with an explosive result. The story goes that no matter how hard the Mackenzies tried, they couldn’t break through. Every time they assaulted the walls, the MacDonell guns would fight them off. The besiegers were ready to give up and head home when they had a stroke of luck.

One of the castle servants was filling up barrels with water when they accidentally poured some into the last barrel of gunpowder. A Mackenzie prisoner overheard the culprit getting an earful and shouted to his clansmen outside that the castle was defenceless!

The MacDonells had no choice but to make a deal and surrender. The victors used their gunpowder to blow the castle up. You can still see huge chunks of masonry right where they landed during that blast 400 years ago.

The Journey Home

A nice surprise on my last journey back from Applecross was at the Loch Carron Viewpoint where Coffee Rescue Scotland had set up shop. They serve coffee shop quality drinks from the back of a converted Land Rover with a smile and some banter. After a late night in the Applecross Inn and the long drive ahead of us, great coffee was exactly what I needed. You can find the viewpoint here: https://goo.gl/maps/NcLEvce2fEjP3bad8.

A Final Note on Visiting Applecross

In case you hadn’t noticed, I love visiting Applecross. It’s an awful long way to go for just one night but tie it in to a weekend or more away and you won’t regret it. If you aren’t short on time then you can make the journey a long circular, including Loch Ness and Eilean Donan Castle on the journey there. On the way back head through dramatic Glen Coe and down the banks of Loch Lomond.

Have a watch of this short video, created by my friend Gavin Brady from Annfield Recordings who also performed the music in the background. It shows a very small part of my last Applecross visit but hopefully it gets you in the mood for a Scottish roadtrip!

Share the story using the links below!

Please leave this field empty

Want To See More of Scotland?

Sign up to get blog updates!
No spam. Ever.

Email Address *

Check your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.