The Ultimate 3 Day Isle of Skye Itinerary – How To Avoid The Crowds

If you’re planning a trip to the Isle of Skye, this is the 3 day itinerary and guide to make the most of your time. It covers more than just the popular tourist spots, bringing you the stories and corners of the Misty Isle.

Visiting Skye is high up on many travellers’ bucket lists and rightly so. I’m lucky enough to get to spend a lot of time around this Scottish island every year, sharing its stories as well as its scenery. There’s something incredibly special about Skye, more than just its misty peaks or rugged sea-lochs. It’s a place of myth, legend, culture and tradition that can’t be fully experienced in just one day.

This three-day Skye itinerary is written for travellers who want to see the island properly. While it is possible to get here in a day from Inverness on a tour like this, if you have more time, then use it wisely. I’ll share my favourite food on Skye, the incredible stories from the big sites and the quiet corners you’d otherwise miss.

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Getting to the Isle of Skye

The journey to Skye is part of the experience and you’ve got a few options for your trip to the island. Most visitors reach the island by crossing the Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh, it’s only closed in the highest of winds, so it’s a safe, efficient way to travel. It also means you can stop by Eilean Donan Castle on the way!

Another popular choice is to take the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale. Operated by Calmac, you MUST book a ticket for both your car and passengers in advance. This route books out pretty quick, so make sure to plan in advance. It takes around 45 minutes, the views are incredible and you have a chance of spotting whales or dolphins along the way!

However, my favourite way to get to the Isle of Skye is another ferry, a much smaller, more interesting one! The Glenelg Ferry is the last operating turntable ferry in Scotland, only taking around six cars at a time. It’s a real experience, although the road there is a narrow one, and there’s no bookings so you just turn up and wait.

There’s no doubt that if you’re visiting Skye for three days then having a car is the easiest way to explore. If you don’t have your own then here’s the best place to find car hire in Scotland. If you’re nervous about driving here, this article might help you!

CREATE A MAP HERE FOR WHERE TO GO

Where to Stay on Skye

Where to stay on Skye is another important choice to make well in advance of visiting. It’s a much larger island than you might think, so remember that when you have to drive back to your accommodation after a long day! There’s lots of options but they do book quickly, so here’s my advice as somebody who regularly stays all over Skye!

Portree – The Main Town

As the capital of Skye, this is where you’ll find lots of places to stay and it’s where I would usually recommend. It’s very central with lots of dinner options and you’ll be able to get a coffee from Birch before hitting the road. Here are my recommendations:

Coolin View – Very central with incredible views over the harbour and a simple self check-in system in case you’re arriving late.

The Rosedale – Quiet spot tucked down by the harbour, perfect morning views across the water!

Harbour House – Hire a full house in Portree for up to six people and split the cost!

Hostelling Scotland – Don’t dismiss a hostel out of hand, this is the budget option where I normally stay and you can book a private room to yourself!

Broadford – The Other Town

Skye’s other main town Broadford is another handy place to stay with local amenities. Much closer to the bridge but much further from things like Neist Point or Trotternish at the end of the day.

Crossroads B&B – A fantastic B&B with the friendliest of hosts!

House of Juniper – For a little bit of luxury, they even have a sauna to enjoy!

The Hebridean – With rooms, suites and even a holiday house, the Hebridean has you covered!

Trotternish

If you’d rather stay somewhere a bit more remote, the Trotternish Peninsula is a great choice.

Flodigarry Hotel – For a wee bit of luxury, try this country house hotel!

Garraidh Ghorm Pod – If in doubt, you can usually find a pod to stay in! Small, but with everything you need.

Monkstadt 1745 – This historic spot is tied closely to the Jacobite story and you’ve got rooms or unique lodges to choose from!

Elswhere On Skye

Greshornish House Hotel – I was lucky enough to have a client pay for me to stay here, it was simply outstanding!

Atholl Guest House – In a great base at Dunvegan, lots of rooms and very friendly staff!

Ullinish House – A quiet spot but very fancy – definitely worth it!

Day One – The Cuillin Mountains and the Heart of Skye

I like to begin any 3-day trip to Skye with some of the most impressive scenery and the biggest stories from this incredible island. We’re going to stick mostly to the central part of the island, around the jagged Black Cuillin mountains!

Sligachan Bridge

First stop is at the Sligachan Bridge, where the view of the jagged Black Cuillins is jawdropping. Get here early before the crowds and dip your face in the water below the bridge. Legend says that the fairies of Skye will grant you everlasting beauty and you can read the full story here!

Also, don’t miss the statue of Norman Collie & John Mackenzie – the chemist and the crofter. These two broke down social boundaries to become lifelong friends and map routes to the peaks of the mountains you see before you!

The Fairy Pools

There’s no doubt that the Fairy Pools are one of the most popular spots in Skye and it can get overrun! That’s why, for your 3-day Skye trip, it’s important to get here early. I aim to arrive no later than 9.30am, when there’s plenty of space in the car park and only a few folk walking the trail. Expect to take around 60-90 minutes walking, with one steep bit getting back up to the car!

There aren’t actually any fairy stories from this part of Skye, the name “Fairy Pools” comes from the blue-green colour of the water. At the very top, by the mountains, is Coire nan Creach – “the corrie of the spoils” – and you can be sure that has a story. It was the site of a fierce battle between the MacLeods and MacDonalds which ended the War of the One-Eyed Woman!

Talisker Distillery

All that walking works up a thirst, so I like to head straight from the Fairy Pools to Talisker Distillery! While you could book onto a distillery tour, I tend to just prop up the bar. They’ve got a range of drams to choose from or even a full 3-whisky flight if you have the time and taste for it!

Coffee at Caora Dubh

I know not everybody is a coffee drinker, but if everybody else is sipping drams in Talisker, your driver might appreciate Caora Dubh just next door!

Lunch at the Oystershed

Probably my favourite place to eat in all of Skye, especially for seafood. The Oystershed is simple but effective, with a range of seafood and chips to enjoy with a stunning view across the loch. It’s takeaway, but there’s a little sheltered area for when the weather isn’t being kind. Parking is very limited, so get there before the lunch rush!

Shop Local At Lou Lou Designs

Ignore the tartan tat you often find in tourist shops, nearby Talisker and Carbost is a true local craftsperson. Pop in to visit Lou Lou Designs and get your hands on one of her custom Harris Tweed bags. She’s the nicest person, makes everything with love and care, and you might get to meet her dogs!

Optional Hike To Talisker Bay

Not everybody is able to hike, so this is just an option if you have time and energy. It’s one of the best ways to leave the crowds behind in an otherwise busy part of the island. Once you’ve found somewhere to (sensibly) park, it only takes around half an hour to walk along the track to Talisker Bay. I rarely see another person along here, although I have spotted sea eagles soaring above me!

Optional – Boat Trip to Loch Coruisk

Another great way to spend an afternoon if you have the time is to take one of the Bella Jane Boat Trips to Loch Coruisk. You have the option to spend some time ashore and explore the area or just enjoy the boat ride and incredible views!

Explore Portree

Depending on how long you spend hiking, you should have plenty of time to head to Portree to end the first day of your trip to Skye. Have a browse of the independent stores – my highlights are the Carmina Gadelica bookstore and Cath Waters art shop – I’ve got one of her prints above my fireplace!

Day Two – Castles, Clans and the Atlantic Edge

Today, we’re heading to the northwest of Skye to take in some castles, clan histories and see some of the island’s wild coastline.

Gesto Bay Viewpoint

Break up the drive to the northwest with a quick stop at the Gesto Bay Viewpoint. There’s probably a dozen places you’ll want to pull over, but this is a favourite of mine. I can guarantee the light will be doing something interesting!

Dun Beag Broch

Stretch the legs a little with an uphill hike to the 2000-year-old, Dun Beag Broch. We know very little about these Iron Age structures found all over the north of Scotland, but some are in remarkably good condition. Notice the staircase spiralling between the two drystone walls and imagine what life was once like here!

Dunvegan Castle

Easily one of the biggest attractions for those visiting Skye, Dunvegan Castle is packed with stories! Clinging to a rock above the sea, it’s been home to Clan MacLeod for over 800 years! Don’t miss the Fairy Flag and Rory Mor’s Horn – read about those legends here!

Giant Angus MacAskill Museum

This is somewhere that often gets missed, but anybody I’ve taken to the Giant Angus MacAskill Museum has absolutely loved it. Ring the bell to let Peter MacAskill know that you’ve arrived, pay the small fee and step inside. While the museum is about the tallest natural living human, the real treat is Peter himself. He’ll share stories with you and probably sing a local Gaelic song; it’s a little bit of real culture for your Skye trip!

Duirinish Stone & Kilmuir Cemetery

Not far away, you’ll find an old cemetery with a standing stone looming above. Take some time to wander the resting place of several chiefs of Clan MacLeod as you climb to the top. The Duirinish Stone on the hill was raised by the local community to mark the year 2000 and the view to the flat-topped hills known as MacLeod’s Tables is stunning!

Lunch At Dunvegan

You don’t have to travel far to grab some traditional Scottish food at the Old School Restaurant. Another option is The Misty for soup, paninis, pizzas and burgers!

Skye Weavers

Head out west and stop off at the Skye Weavers to see local tradition in action. You’ll learn about the history and culture behind making tweed and maybe even get a chance to pedal the loom yourself. The golden rule – don’t pedal backwards…you learn from experience. There’s a wee shop if you want to pick up anything to remember your trip to Skye!

Neist Point Lighthouse

After a long, winding road, you’ll eventually reach Neist Point. There are lots of parking spaces but it can still get very full later in the day, especially around sunset. This is the furthest west point on the Isle of Skye and a beautiful area of soaring cliffs and crashing waves. I like to head to the right along the cliffs until you reach the iconic view of the lighthouse behind the jut of land. If you have the energy, it’s a long walk down and back up!

Skye Skyns

Retrace your steps before heading north onto the Waternish Peninsula, where you’ll find Skyeskyns. You maybe noticed that there are a lot more sheep than people on Skye. This is what can be done with the skins. There’s a free tour on offer taking you through the process, as well as a shop and even a yurt-based coffee shop!

Trumpan Church

I hate the words “hidden gem”, but if there’s anywhere on Skye that fits the bill then this is it. I love Trumpan Church, it’s quiet and calming, but with some amazing stories. Sadly, they’re not cheery ones…

During a clan feud, the MacDonalds burned this church full of MacLeods one Sunday in 1578. Before the raiders could escape, the MacLeod chief chased them down in the bay below and got revenge. With too many bodies to bury, a wall was pushed over the dead, so the skirmish became known as the Battle of the Spoiling Dyke.

Stop At Stein

It’s worth detouring down to Stein if you have the time, it’s a beautiful view across the jetty. This is where I left for an adventure to St Kilda – read this for more on that trip! The other reason most people will come down here is to eat or drink at the oldest pub in Skye. Make sure to book a spot to guarantee a table, the seafood at Stein Inn is unforgettable!

Day Three – The Trotternish Peninsula

One of my favourite ways to spend a day on Skye is exploring the Trotternish Peninsula. It’s such an incredible area that I wrote this guide dedicated just to the stories there! The highlights of Trotternish feature in every guide and many tours, but the bonus of spending 3 days on Skye means that you can really spend time there and not miss a thing!

Rha Waterfall

From Portree, head north towards Uig and enjoy the coastal scenery, but before you reach the ferry port stop at a fork in the road (marked here). It’s a short walk along the A855 to the Uig Community Woodland and down the steps to the stunning Rha Waterfall!

As you descend the steps through the trees, you’ll hear it before you see it. The woods are impossibly green and a world away from the usual open, sweeping vistas on Skye. On calm days, the pool beneath it is a popular swimming spot, but if you visit during or after rain, it becomes a thunderous spectacle!

Fairy Glen

The Fairy Glen has never been one of my favourite places to visit on Skye, it’s often very busy and too much footfall churns the soft grass. It is still a beautiful spot though, naturally formed into what seems to be a miniature version of a glen. Strange lumps and mounds are watched over by a towering pillar nicknamed Castle Ewen. Don’t go moving stones around to form patterns or the locals will get rightfully annoyed with you!

Skye Brewery In Uig

Make sure you don’t leave Uig without picking up a few locally brewed beers from the Skye Brewery! If you’re planning a picnic then this is perfect and you can grab a few other bits of local produce from the fridges.

Skye Museum of Island Life

As well as all the beautiful places you’ll see on a trip to Skye, it’s important to remember the people who have called this place home over the centuries. There’s nowhere better to learn about their traditions and stories than the Skye Museum of Island Life. Walk through these thatched cottages, laid out as an island township, and discover a lost way of life. The nearby Highland Deli also does a great coffee!

Kilmuir Cemetery

Tucked behind the museum is the small Kilmuir Cemetery. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you spot the soaring cross dedicated to Flora MacDonald! She famously saved the Jacobite leader Bonnie Prince Charlie by smuggling him to Skye from the Outer Hebrides dressed as her maid…

At the very back of the cemetery, behind a burial aisle, you should spot the effigy of a mail-clad warrior. This marks the resting place of Angus Martin of the Wind, somebody who would set sail in all weather. Legend says that he stole this effigy from Iona, carrying it up the hill on his back, ready for when his time came!

Duntulm Castle

Almost at the very tip of the peninsula, Duntulm Castle was once the main base of Clan MacDonald and said to be one of the most haunted castles in Scotland. The views from the ruins are spectacular, but please be very careful, it’s in a precarious state! There are actually seven castles around Skye and you can find them all here!

The Quiraing

A very steep, narrow, winding road with hairpin bends leads up to one of Skye’s best viewpoints – The Quiraing. It only takes a minute to walk there from the large car park, so you’ll find it busy on a clear day. However, if you have the time and energy, then a 3-4 hour walk leads up amongst the rugged landscape itself. Even just walking for 5-10 minutes leaves most of the casual tourists behind!

Quiraing means “Round Fold” and it’s actually a massive landslip that’s still moving, although by millimetres every couple of years so there’s nothing to be worried about! Words really can’t convey how incredible the scenery is here, getting more dramatic the further you venture. Just be aware that the weather can change quickly up here!

Staffa Dinosaur Footprints

For one of the more surprising things to find on Skye are dinosaur footprints! The most popular can be found at low tide on An Corran beach near Staffin. In the rocks, not far from the car park, you can spot fossilised tracks left by ornithopods over 165 million years ago! If the tides aren’t right, or you’re struggling to find the prints, then head to the nearby Staffin Dinosaur Museum.

Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls

Not far to the south, a large car park gives access to a spectacular view of Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. Look beyond the waterfall plunging into the sea and you’ll notice the cliffs shaped like pleats in a kilt. From this part of Trotternish, the mountains of the mainland rise in the distance. It can be a popular spot, but is usually quieter later on in the day.

Old Man Of Storr

No visit to Trotternish would be complete without seeing the Old Man of Storr! This iconic pinnacle can be seen from miles away as you drive along the coast, seemingly bursting from the landscape. If you’re fit, the walk takes a couple of hours round trip, but it’s very steep and can be muddy after heavy rain.

Of course, there are stories to explain where the Old Man came from. One version tells us it’s the remains of giant, another that an old couple were turned to stone by Skye’s fairies! The last story relates to a much friendlier creature – an honourable Scottish Brownie who carved into the likeness of his friend!

Finish in Portree

The road carries on south into Portree, so if you haven’t had a chance to explore Skye’s main town, then this is it! Exploring Trotternish can be a packed adventure, so you might just want to grab a chippy and get to bed!

Where To Eat On Skye

Skye is one of the best places to find good Scottish food, both traditional and modern! As an island, the seafood is of course incredible, but so is the venison, lamb, beef and vegetarian options. When I take guests on tours around Skye, they always comment on how good the food is. Here are my recommendations not already mentioned:

Birch Coffee – The best place to start the day in Portree is undoubtedly Birch, recently named one of the best coffee shops in the world!

Lean-To Coffee – Further south on the way to the Skye Bridge, this is another unbelievably good coffee spot!

Antlers Bar & Grill – Found in the Portree Hotel, it’s semi-fancy and full-delicious! The beef (pictured below) is incredible!

The Isles Inn Portree – This busy pub doesn’t take reservations so get in early and you can enjoy a whisky while you wait!

Cafe Cuil – This award winning cafe is on the way to the Fairy Pools and one of the best lunch spots on Skye!

Broadford Shellfish Shack – Another excellent place to grab some local, fresh seafood!

Gasta Broadford/Portree – Grab delicious pizza in Broadford or Portree. Black Pudding or Venison toppings are top tier!

Three Chimneys – For the very fanciest fine dining, the Three Chimneys is well worth splashing out on!

The Dunvegan – Emma and I had one of our best ever meals here in a beautiful building with amazing service!

Ready To Spend Three Days In Skye?

Hopefully, you’re ready to spend three days in Skye now, but if you want a more tailored approach, I can help with your itinerary! If you’d rather have a personal guide to drive you everywhere, maybe you should book a bespoke Scotland’s Stories tour instead! For those of you who want to appreciate the stories behind the places of Scotland more, grab a copy of the Scotland’s Stories Book.

Lastly, if you want more ideas about where to visit around Scotland’s West Coast – grab a copy of the Oban Itinerary & Planning Guide here!