Storied Guide To The Trotternish Peninsula On The Isle Of Skye

The Isle of Skye truly is an incredible place and I’m fortunate enough to spend plenty of time there. While there are thrilling stories and stunning scenery in every corner, it’s the Trotternish Peninsula that often steals the show.

You could easily dedicate a whole day just to this one area of Skye, even more if you pack your walking boots! If you’re a little more pressed for time, then these are the spots I would recommend. Hopefully, this honest guide of the Trotternish Peninsula and its amazing stories will help you on your own trip to the Isle of Skye!

If you’re looking for other ideas on what to do in Skye, here’s a guide to the island’s seven historic castles!

Where Is The Trotternish Peninsula?

The Trotternish Peninsula makes up the northernmost portion of Skye, where some of the island’s most dramatic scenery can be found. Shaped by ancient landslips and volcanic activity, the landscape feels a little like another world. This is more than just a scenic spot though, there’s a long history of habitation here and still plenty of people who call Trotternish home.

Travelling around the peninsula will take you on a loop, past towering cliffs, hidden waterfalls, prehistoric footprints, and powerful remnants of Highland history. While there is a bus that travels the route, I’d definitely recommend using a car to make the most of these things to do on the Trotternish Peninsula.

Here’s the best place to find car hire in Scotland and if you’re nervous about driving on these roads, this article will help a lot!

Start In Portree

Portree is the main town on Skye and it makes a perfect base to explore the island. The name is said to come from “Port of the King” in Gaelic, named after a visit by James V to the island. I’d always recommend heading off early to beat the crowds, but if you can then grab a coffee from Birch first!

The pretty coloured buildings by the harbour are always a highlight and they’re best viewed from beside the road across from the Scorrybreac Restaurant. However, my top tip is that the light always looks better there in the evening as the sun goes down! You’ll want to get on the road before it gets too busy, but if you have more time in Portree then you’ll find great independent shops and cosy pubs to reward yourself with a dram after a packed day!

Rha Waterfall

From Portree, head north to begin exploring the Trotternish Peninsula itself, heading towards Uig. The coastal scenery is beautiful, but before you reach the ferry port, there’s one of my favourite hidden gems. Stop in the car park at a fork in the road (marked here) and walk a short distance along the A855 to the Uig Community Woodland.

As you descend the steps through the trees, you’ll likely hear the Rha Waterfalls before you see them. It’s a spectacular spot, impossibly green and a world away from the usual open, sweeping vistas on Skye. On calm days, the pool beneath it is a popular swimming spot, but if you’re lucky enough to visit during or after rain, it becomes a thunderous spectacle!

The Fairy Glen

I did say that this was going to be an honest guide to the Trotternish Peninsula on Skye, so I have to tell you the truth. This isn’t one of my favourite places to visit and if you’re short on time, the Fairy Glen is somewhere I would skip. I know that goes against most blogs about Skye, but most of those aren’t written by experts.

The Fairy Glen is still a beautiful spot, naturally formed into what seems to be a miniature version of Scotland’s famous glens. Strange lumps and mounds are watched over by a towering pillar nicknamed Castle Ewen. There aren’t actually any fairy stories attributed to this area of Skye, although there are plenty elsewhere on the island!

Skye Museum Of Island Life

As well as all the beautiful places you’ll see when you visit the Trotternish Peninsula, it’s important to remember the people who have called this place home over the centuries. There’s nowhere better to learn about their traditions and stories than the Skye Museum of Island Life.

Walk through these thatched cottages, laid out as an island township, and discover a lost way of life. Think peat fires, blackhouses, and a wide array of tools and implements. There’s a good chance you’ll spot some Highland Cows (the famous hairy coos) wandering nearby! If you need a pickup, then the Highland Deli nearby is great for a quick coffee and snack!

Kilmuir Cemetery

Don’t rush away from the museum, you’ll find some fascinating history a short walk along the track at Kilmuir Cemetery. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you spot the soaring cross dedicated to Flora MacDonald! She famously saved the Jacobite leader Bonnie Prince Charlie by smuggling him to Skye from the Outer Hebrides dressed as her maid…

From her grave, head right to the back of the cemetery and behind a burial aisle you should spot the effigy of a mail-clad warrior. This marks the resting place of Angus Martin of the Wind, somebody who would set sail in all weather. Legend says that he stole this effigy from Iona, carrying it up the hill on his back, ready for when his time came!

Lastly, in the centre of the burial ground, a flat table is dedicated to Charles MacArthur. However, if you look closely, the text was never finished! The story goes that Charles’ son had commissioned the eulogy, but died before it was completed. The stonemason realised he wasn’t getting paid, so just left it half done!

Duntulm Castle

Almost at the very tip of the peninsula, the ruins of Duntulm Castle make for one of the Trotternish Peninsulas most historic spots! Once the main base of Clan MacDonald, it’s said to be one of the most haunted castles in Scotland.

Hugh MacDonald tried and failed to seize control of the clan from his cousin, being subsequently imprisoned in a dungeon at Duntulm Castle. To speed up his death, Hugh was given only salted beef to eat without anything to drank. You might hear his rasping groans still echoing among the ruins.

Next, Margaret MacLeod has been seen weeping from her single eye around Duntulm. It was her mistreatment at the hands of the MacDonalds that started the War of the One Eyed Woman. Clearly her spirit is drawn back to the most miserable year of her life.

Donald Gorm the 8th Chief is a much happier, although more aggressive ghost. Donald was a famous warrior who liked to pick fights for fun with his own clansmen. He stomps around Duntulm Castle in a drunken manner trying to brawl with other spirits.

Ghosts or not, please be careful exploring Duntulm Castle, it’s in a very precarious state!

The Quiraing

As you continue travelling around the Trotternish Peninsula, the landscape gets increasingly dramatic. Eventually, a very steep, narrow, winding road with hairpin bends leads up to the Quiraing viewpoint. It’s a journey that should only be taken by confident drivers, but the reward is one of the best views in all of Scotland!

It only takes a minute to walk there from the large car park, therefore you’ll likely find it busy on a clear day. However, if you have the time and energy then a 3-4 hour walk leads up amongst the rugged landscape itself. Even just walking for 5-10 minutes will see you leave most of the casual tourists behind here.

Quiraing means “Round Fold” and it’s actually a massive landslip that’s still moving, although by millimetres every couple of years so there’s nothing to be worried about! Words really can’t convey how incredible the scenery is here, getting more dramatic the further you venture. Just be aware that the weather can change quickly up here!

Staffa Dinosaur Footprints

For one of the more surprising parts of this guide to the Trotternish Peninsula, you can find dinosaur footprints here! The most popular can be found at low tide on An Corran beach near Staffin. In the rocks, not far from the car park, you can spot fossilised tracks left by ornithopods over 165 million years ago!

If the tides aren’t right, or you’re struggling to find the prints, then head to the nearby Staffin Dinosaur Museum. Established by Dugald Ross almost 50 years ago, it’s a true treasure trove of finds. It’s always an especially loved place to visit for children, but I’ve no doubt people of all ages will love it too.

Kilt Rock & Mealt Falls

Not far to the south, a large car park gives access to a spectacular view of Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. Look beyond the waterfall plunging into the sea and you’ll notice the cliffs shaped like pleats in a kilt. From this part of Trotternish, the mountains of the mainland rise in the distance.

It can be a very popular spot, but is usually quieter later on in the day. While everybody else is gazing out to Kilt Rock, keep your eyes on the water and you may well spot dolphins or even whales if you’re lucky!

The Old Man of Storr

No visit to Trotternish would be complete without seeing the Old Man of Storr! This iconic pinnacle can be seen from miles away as you drive along the coast, seemingly bursting from the landscape. If you’re fit, the walk takes a couple of hours round trip, but it’s very steep and can be muddy after heavy rain.

Of course, there are stories to explain where the Old Man came from and the most popular tells us he was once a giant. During a brutal fight, the giant was slain, crashing to earth and pulling most of the hillside down on top of him. Only one part wasn’t completely covered in the landslide – some say it’s his thumb, others say it’s a more intimate part of his anatomy…

Another legend attributes this landmark to Skye’s mischievous fairies. A local couple once climbed to the top of these hills every single day of their long and happy marriage. As the years passed and the old lady struggled to keep up with her husband, he quietly wished that she would always be able to travel with him wherever he went.

The fairies granted the wish, waiting until the old man carried his wife to the top of the hill and turning them into a giant stone pillar!

The last story relates to a much friendlier creature – an honourable Scottish Brownie! When a farmer sadly passed away, the Brownie that had worked for him was heartbroken. He carved a rock above their home into the shape of his good friend, creating the Old Man of Storr.

If you like stories like these, I think you’ll enjoy The Scotland’s Stories Book, packed with tales behind real places all around Scotland!

Where To Stay On The Trotternish Peninsula

Finding accommodation on Skye can be very difficult, so make sure to book well in advance if possible. Most people will stay in Portree as a base, so I’ve given you my tried and tested hotels and B&Bs there as well as a few places out on the peninsula as well.

Portree

Coolin View – Very central with incredible views over the harbour and a simple self check-in system in case you’re arriving late.

Harbour View – A small home with 2 bedrooms right beside the water, perfect for 3 people!

Stonefield House – A great value guest house within walking distance of the centre of Portree!

Harbour House – Hire a full house in Portree for up to six people and split the cost!

Trotternish Peninsula

Flodigarry Hotel – For a wee bit of luxury, try this country house hotel!

Garraidh Ghorm Pod – If in doubt, you can usually find a pod to stay in! Small, but with everything you need.

Monkstadt 1745 – This historic spot is tied closely to the Jacobite story and you’ve got rooms or unique lodges to choose from!

The Old Crofthouse – A house for six people with bags of character and close enough to get dinner in Portree!

If this guide to the Trotternish Peninsula has caught your interest, how about visiting on a Scotland’s Stories Tour?

Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!