A Trip Around Skye

When I took a trip around Skye earlier this year, I was in a rush. My aim had been to gather as much content as possible to write about and share with everybody. The problem was that I was still working a fulltime job, so holidays were limited. I wondered if it was possible to see the Isle of Skye in just one day?

The short answer is a firm no.

Of course, it’s not essential to spend longer than one day on Skye. But to really enjoy everything the way that you should, you’re going to need much longer. There is a trend these days of bucket list tourism, probably encouraged by platforms like Instagram. What some people find important is to take a picture just to show that they have been somewhere and then move on.

I drove onto the island at around 8am and I left again 13 hours later. I stopped for 15 minutes for lunch, drank my coffee as I drove and still didn’t manage to see everything I wanted. My only real hike was a couple hours around the Old Man of Storr which meant I missed enough to justify another trip very soon.

Did I get a lot of content that I could write about for Scotland’s Stories? – Yes.

Did I enjoy everything properly and get to soak in these incredible sights? – Not even close.

If you had the time to dedicate a whole week to the Isle of Skye then you wouldn’t be bored. Time isn’t a luxury that everybody has though. One day I will break down each area into smaller, more detailed chunks to give a fuller itinerary. For now, these are my highlights for you to pick and choose from for your very own trip around Skye.

Sleat Peninsula & Armadale Castle

Whether you arrive by bridge or by ferry from Mallaig or Glenelg, the first place on your Skye journey is the Sleat Peninsula. If you have a few hours to spend then you could walk all the way to the lighthouse at the most southern point of the island and visit a slightly hidden, sandy beach. For this trip, we are going to visit the Armadale Castle Gardens & Museum instead.

The romantic castle ruin is from the 18th/19th centuries but has a beautiful view out across the water. The original castle was actually fired upon by Royal Navy Ships in 1690 during the first Jacobite rising. The MacDonalds claimed they chased off and slaughtered the soldiers that landed but the official Navy report disagrees. To this day nobody knows who to believe!

The gardens are beautiful but the highlight of Armadale is the museum. It tells the story of all things MacDonald from the 12th century Somerled to the present day. The building houses an incredible collection of artefacts but the real highlight for many is the archive and library. The staff are often able to help with your family research, especially if your ancestors were MacDonalds from the Isle of Skye!

Armadale Castle & Museum is open April to the end of October and costs £9 per Adult.

The Sligachan Bridge

It’s a bit of a drive to get to our next spot but take your time and enjoy the scenery. You’ll be heading through the little town of Broadford which is also a good place to stock up on supplies. We’re heading to one of my favourite views on the Isle of Skye, the Sligachan Bridge.

There is dedicated parking for the bridge on either side. If you’re going to make use of the Sligachan Hotel area then stop in for some food or drink. From the Old Bridge you get spectacular views of the Cuillin mountains and I love this beautiful story about them. You might also notice a statue nearby of Norman Collie and John Mackenzie. They were two hikers from very different walks of life who formed a lifelong friendship, climbing and mapping these mountains.

The true magic of the Sligachan Bridge though is the water that runs below it. Hundreds of years ago, Scotland’s greatest warrior Scáthach was battling the Irish demi-god Cú Chulainn in a fight to the death. Scáthach’s daughter came to this river and pled with the fairies to save her mother. The girl’s grief and the tears falling in the water convinced the fairy queen to help her. They enchanted the river to give her the wisdom she needed to end the battle.

When you visit, the ritual at the Sligachan Bridge is an essential activity. Kneel down by the river and lower you face into the water for a full 7 seconds. Don’t splash the water up otherwise it doesn’t count. Leave your face to dry naturally without wiping anything away and the fairies will grant you everlasting youth. You’ll also be feeling refreshed for the rest of the days journey around Skye.

The Fairy Pools

Another 20 minutes along the road and you’ll find one of the most popular walks on Skye. These are the fairy pools and they are a highlight in all weather conditions. On a hot, sunny day then the crystal clear water is perfect for a dip as long as you don’t mind watching crowds. On a misty, gloomy, sullen day then the waterfalls with their backdrop of mountains has a mysterious, moody feeling.

The name Fairy Pools comes from the colours and the atmosphere of the series of small waterfalls rather than any folk story. There is a brand new car park with toilet facilities to alleviate some of the pressure from so many visitors. It’s an easy, low-level walk along the river although you could hike all the way back to Sligachan if the mood takes you. Unfortunately, this is one of those spots on Skye that has become a victim of its own success. Try and visit on a nice summer day and you will find this magical spot absolutely swarming with people. The atmosphere is a little ruined.

Talisker Distillery & Bay

Skye’s oldest whisky distillery just happens to be one of my favourites – Talisker. A little smoky, a little sweet and a lot delicious. If you aren’t a whisky fan, then the distillery tour is still interesting and there is a great wee coffee hut outside called Caora Dubh Coffee. Don’t miss a quick stop round the corner at the Oyster Shed for some of the freshest seafood. Both ready to eat and fresh for you to cook later on!

Talisker Bay is a lovely walk to a sandy beach (if the tide is out) but it’s actually 15 minutes drive away from the distillery. There’s a waterfall as well as a mixture of black and white sand which creates beautiful patterns. It’s definitely worth the short journey to get here.

Dun Beag Broch

Back on the road north and we come to something much older than the pretty castles everybody is used to. This is the 2000 year old, Dun Beag Broch. We know very little about these Iron Age structures found all over the north of Scotland but some of them are in remarkably good condition.

It’s a short, steep walk up here, rewarding you with the chance to stand where people lived thousands of years ago. You can see the structure had two layered walls with a stair in between, like an old fashioned spiral staircase. The stone remains are impressive today but imagine what this would have looked out when it was a staggering 10 metres high.

Neist Point

It’s a long, winding, single track road to get to Neist Point. But the most westerly part of the island is also one of the most iconic views. This is halfway through our journey around Skye but if you are spending a few days on the island then there is nowhere better to experience sunset. Just make sure you’re comfortable driving back in darkness.

The iconic view of the lighthouse is the tiny little hill above the car park. If you have the time and energy then I recommend the walk down the steps onto the little peninsula. Climb up the slope halfway between the car park and the lighthouse for a full 360 degree viewpoint. Just be very, very careful around all of this area, especially when the wind picks up. Tragic accidents have happened.

Dunvegan Graveyard

The next stop we’re making gets very little attention. By the village of Dunvegan, there is a ruined church with a standing stone, looming high above. Take some time to wander around the gravestones and you’ll find the resting place of several chiefs of Clan MacLeod as well as an obelisk to mark the death of Simon “The Fox” Fraser’s father. The Duirinish Stone on the hill was raised by the local community to mark the year 2000.

The view from here towards the two flat topped hills known as MacLeod’s tables is incredible. Back in the 16th century, the Chief of MacLeod was visiting the Royal Court. He was sick of all the Lowland nobles showing off their riches and exclaimed that he had a table grander than anything they had shown. The nobles were all invited to Skye to see for themselves. MacLeod then made them hike up to the the top of Healabhal Mhòr where he had laid out a grand banquet on his mountain table.

You can hike up them yourself in around 4-6 hours but bring your own picnic, MacLeod doesn’t cater for everybody.

Dunvegan Castle

Rather than hilltops, Dunvegan Castle is where Clan MacLeod cater for most of their guests. Skye’s greatest castle has been occupied by the same family for 800 years and holds the clan’s most valuable treasures. Chief among these is the Fairy Flag, gifted to the clan by the fairy folk of Skye with miraculous powers when unfurled in a time of need.

The short version of the story is that the chief of Clan MacLeod fell in love with a fairy princess. Sadly, her father refused to allow the couple to marry. Instead, he let them have a year and a day together before he would come to collect his daughter at the fairy bridge. The couple wasted no time and when time was up, the fairy princess had given birth to a baby boy.

Forced to leave the baby at Dunvegan Castle, she asked her love to promise never to let their son cry. Soon after, the clan threw a party to cheer their chief up. The baby’s nurse couldn’t resist and abandoned her post to join the festivities. The baby started to cry and his mother slipped away from the fairy kingdom, to soothe him. She left behind the child wrapped in this flag and it has saved the clan on more than one occasion.

Dunvegan Castle is open until October and costs £14 per adult. The Fairy Bridge is just a little further along the bridge and free to park up and visit.

St Columba’s Isle

St Columba’s Isle is one of the best kept secrets on the Isle of Skye. This peaceful, little island in the middle of the river Snizort is well hidden by the trees. Watch your feet as you wander though. This is an ancient burial ground, filled with carved medieval warrior gravestones and several chiefs of Clan Nicolson. Formerly known as the Cathedral of the Bishop of the Isles, the site was eventually left to fall into ruin. Luckily, it has been cleared up for us all to enjoy.

The island isn’t easy to find but park at or around the Skeabost Memorial Hall and it’s a short walk. Turn right at the Old Bridge along a gravel track until you get to a wooden footbridge and you’re there. Keep in mind while you enjoy the lovely River Snizort that things weren’t always so calm here. Those pools once bobbed with the heads of MacLeod warriors after losing a small skirmish with their MacDonald enemies.

Fairy Glen

The Fairy Glen at Uig has become increasingly popular in recent years. This curious little geological feature is worth a short visit, especially for kids. There are no old Skye folk stories that give the Fairy Glen its name but it does look like a landscape for miniature people. Climb to the top of the oddly named Castle Ewen and enjoy the scenery but please don’t move stones into spirals or circles. The thousands of feet trudging shapes into the ground following these patterns is badly damaging the ground.

The Fairy Glen gets incredibly busy although they have just built a new car park to ease traffic problems. It doesn’t take long to see everything here and while it’s magical for children, if you’re Skye journey is on a tight timetable then this is one stop you could bypass. Some of Skye’s most incredible, largescale scenery is still to come.

Kilmuir Graveyard

Graveyards might not be your usual holiday activity and here I am, recommending a third one during a single trip to Skye. You could also stop in at the Skye Museum of Island Life with its thatched cottages on the way to Kilmuir Graveyard. There are three specific graves with interesting stories to tell.

Firstly, the unmissable, enormous celtic cross marking the grave of Flora MacDonald. She has been immortalised due to her role in helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape the clutches of government soldiers. He dressed up as Flora’s maid called Betty Burke and together, they took a boat over the sea to Skye. She was no Jacobite sympathiser but she has gone down as one of the greatest romantic legends. Her funeral here attracted 3000 mourners who drank 300 gallons of whisky.

Elsewhere in the graveyard you’ll find a carved warrior gravestone marking the resting place of Angus of the Winds. Legend states that he stole this gravestone from an old King on Iona and carried it up the hill here on his back. My favourite grave however is a simple slab with only half an inscription. Charles MacArthur’s son commissioned the stone to be carved to honour his father but died before it was completed. The stonemason realised he wasn’t going to get paid anymore so just abandoned the project halfway through.

Duntulm Castle

Not quite the furthest north point of Skye but not far away, the remains of Duntulm Castle are windswept and precarious. This was a MacDonald stronghold and has a very dark and tragic history befitting its atmosphere. Legend has it that the castle collected so many ghosts, the MacDonalds were forced to move out.

Hugh MacDonald tried and failed to seize control from his cousin and was imprisoned in the dungeon at Duntulm. To speed up his death, Hugh was given nothing to drink and only salted beef to eat. The rasping groans of his thirsty spirit still haunt the clifftop.

Margaret MacLeod has been seen weeping from her single eye amongst the stones of Duntulm. It was her mistreatment at the hands of the MacDonalds that started the War of the One Eyed Woman. Margaret’s spirit is clearly drawn back to the most miserable year of her unfortunate life. Donald Gorm is a much happier, although more aggressive ghost. He stomps around Duntulm in a loud, drunken manner trying to brawl with the other spirits.

The most upsetting ghost is that of a careless nursemaid who dropped the baby of the clan chief from a window ledge. It was an accident but the nurse was still killed as a punishment for her mistake. Her ghost haunts the castle ruins and the cliffs below desperately trying to find the child.

With so many ghosts, the signs warning you not to venture into the castle might have nothing to do with the long drop to the bottom.

Kilt Rock

Now on the east coast of Skye and probably the easiest viewpoint to reach. A few steps from the car park you will find the viewpoint for both the Mealt Falls and Kilt Rock.

Kilt Rock only takes a little bit of imagination for you to see the shape of a torso wearing a flowing kilt. If you happen to be wearing a kilt yourself then just make sure you hold it down, the wind can really pick up out here and you might scare the children. You’ll find a sign pointing you back along the road a little to a low down beach where children and adults alike can explore the stone for signs of prehistoric Dinosaur footprints!

Quiraing

One of the best views on Skye, the Quiraing doesn’t look real. This monumental landslip could be straight out of Lord of the Rings rather than one of Scotland’s islands. Starting at a high car park after driving the winding road up, the full walk isn’t too strenuous but gives you an incredible range of views. Just a short walk will get you away from the crowds just looking for the iconic picture and you have the opportunity to turn back around at any point you don’t feel comfortable with.

Not everybody will have the time or the energy to hike all the way out and see The Prison, Needle and Table amongst other features. If you only have the time for a single long walk then I would take in the majestic view from the small mound just across the road from the car park. The next stop is the walk that shouldn’t be missed.

Old Man of Storr

In my opinion, The Old Man of Storr is one of the must see locations on any visit to Skye. From the car park at the bottom of the hill, it doesn’t look so impressive while dwarfed by the cliffs behind it which is why the hike is so important. The walk up and around the Old Man is steep but it only takes a couple of hours round trip. The towering rock looks completely different from every direction and the stories of its forming range from a buried giant, some wicked fairies playing tricks and a friendly Brownie carving a memorial.

For most people, the walk around the Old Man, taking in views out to Rasaay and Applecross is enough. For the more adventurous, there is an extension that takes you even higher but is much more difficult. You can find the route here if you are feeling energetic and brave.

Portree

This is the end of our journey around Skye, the town of Portree. A short journey south will take you to the crossroads at the Sligachan Bridge and back towards home. If you’re looking for a good place to spend the night or get some fish and chips, then you’ll find it here.

There is so much more to see on the Isle of Skye, even this lengthy article couldn’t fit them all in. One day on Skye is nowhere near enough, a week would be a much fairer length of time here. If you’re planning a trip to this popular Scottish island then I hope you get a few good ideas here. I’ll certainly be back soon to explore even more of this incredible place.

If Skye seems a little too busy for you, then read about visiting the Isle of Bute – the perfect weekend escape?

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