A Wild Adventure To The Isle Of Jura In Winter
There’s something about visiting the Isle of Jura that feels like a real adventure. It might have something to do with taking two ferries to get there or the vast open space to roam when you arrive. Whatever the reason, if you want to add to that experience then you should visit Jura in winter.
To make things even more dramatic, my trip was shoehorned into what seemed to be a bright spell between two storms. The plan was to spend two nights on the Isle of Jura, hike to the north of the island and enjoy plenty of local food and drink along the way. By local drink, of course I mean whisky!
I’m a big advocate of travelling in the “off-season” including a winter trip to Shetland two years ago and another to Orkney in 2023. Things are far quieter than they are in the warmer months, but that doesn’t mean they always go to plan!
This article has some links that I may make a small commission from without any extra cost to yourself.
How To Get To Jura
The Isle of Jura is one of the Inner Hebrides, sitting just to the northeast of Islay and the only way to get there is by ferry. For anybody with a car, that means first taking the Calmac ferry from Kennacraig to Islay. That takes around 2 hours and should always be booked in advance. Dogs are welcome but need their own ticket and you won’t be able to take them in the cafe so bring snacks!
Once you arrive on Islay, you can jump on the short Jura ferry which putters back and forth from Port Askaig. That’s usually where the Islay ferry lands but occasional sailings do go to Port Ellen so don’t be caught out! If you have the time then I’d highly recommend spending a few days on Islay, there’s much more to see there than whisky distilleries!
We booked a return ticket in advance for the Jura Ferry but that doesn’t guarantee you a specific time. You just have to turn up before it leaves and wait in the queue. Due to a large flatbed lorry, there wasn’t space for us at first but the crew came right back to pick us up on a second run.
In the summer, you can actually get a Jura Passenger Ferry from Tayvallich on the mainland straight to Craighouse. It takes about an hour and costs ÂŁ25 each way so does save you a good bit of time. Sadly, if you’re visiting Jura in the winter then this isn’t an option for you.
Head To Craighouse
While Jura is one of the larger islands off Scotland’s west coast, it also has one of the smallest populations. Just over 200 people call this place home and they share it with over 6000 deer. No wonder then that the name Jura is Norse for Deer Island! The largest settlement is Craighouse and that’s where we were heading straight from the ferry.
After a straightforward drive, waving to dozens of deer as we passed, we arrived. You’ll find a community shop here, where you can pick up a good selection of essentials. Be warned, if you need to take out cash then you’ll need to visit in the morning while the Post Office is open.
A Short Visit To Jura Distillery
If there’s one thing that Jura is known for above all others then its delicious whisky. In Craighouse you’ll find the famous, white Jura Distillery looming large. It was founded in 1810 by Archibald Campbell, the Laird of Jura, although it would eventually close down. Thankfully, the distillery was revived in the middle of the 1900s and without it, the island population would no doubt be much smaller than it is today.
Any Jura trip worth its salt should involve a visit to the distillery, with daily tours and tastings to enjoy. Even without a tour, there’s a very well stocked shop for you to pick up a tasty token of your time on Jura. I’m lucky that a friend of mine works for the company that owns the distillery, so he left a bottle waiting for me as a gift!
If you’re looking for a special bottle then I’d highly recommend ordering the Jura 18!
Meeting The Locals In The Jura Hotel
I was on this winter trip to Jura with my friend Rob (from Rob Carr Tours) and somehow he had managed to find us a holiday cottage for the weekend! After checking in and toasting our adventure with a few drams, we descended on The Jura Hotel.
There aren’t many options for food on Jura in winter but fortunately the islands only pub was still open. With no reservations, we wandered in (the wrong door) and ordered the venison stew – what else would we have chosen on deer island? It’s just one example of the amazing selection of Scottish food that you can find all over the country.
While we had originally planned to have a couple of quiet drinks and an early night, the Jura Hotel had other plans for us. We were soon welcomed into a booth by the bar and a map spread out in front of us. Locals ran through the best route for our hike the next day, pointing out good spots to stop for lunch and spot wildlife.
In the end, not far from closing time, we stumbled back to our accommodation for some much needed rest. We’d even secured ourselves an invitation to the Jura Burns Supper the next evening as long as I promised to sing a song…
Hiking To See The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
The main reason we had decided to visit Jura in winter was to catch a glimpse of the Corryvreckan Whirlpool. Found between the north tip of the island and Scarba, it’s the third largest whirlpool in the world! I’ve been wanting to see it for years now, even if it was going to take a 22km hike.
That hike starts about an hour’s drive away from Craighouse, on a road that steadily deteriorates as you go. Towards the end, passing places are few and very far between so make sure you keep an eye out for other cars. Eventually, you’ll reach an old quarry with a sign telling you distances to Barnhill and the Corryvreckan.
For the most part, the hike is on a good, flat track through open space with sweeping views across to the mainland. Eventually, you’ll wander past old birch woods beside tiny bays and the picturesque Barnhill. Once we reached a final, remote farmhouse with a tiny “Gulf of Corryvreckan – 2 miles” sign, it was time to head uphill.
The biggest downside to hiking in winter on Jura, the boggy section that came next was at its very boggiest. After leaping over puddles, climbing two stiles, then some actual hillwalking we were sure we could hear it. The roar of the whirlpool. We raced to the edge of the cliff to look down into the Gulf and…nothing.
If you want the best chance of seeing the whirlpool, you need to visit during a Spring Tide and we were two days early. There was lots of turbulence below but we were going to have to make another trip to Jura if we wanted to see it in full flow.
The Story Of The Corryvreckan Whirlpool
While witnessing the Corryvreckan Whirlpool would be impressive, the real reason I wanted to see it was for the story behind it. It’s actually one of my favourite tales from the Scotland’s Stories book! You can listen to me read the full story straight from the book in the video below.
A Prince of Norway called Breckan wanted to marry the daughter of the chief of Jura, but the father set him a challenge to prove his love. He had to anchor his ship for 3 days in the middle of the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.
So with the advice of a wise woman, he made 3 ropes. One of wool, one of hemp and one of hair donated by the purest of Norwegian maidens! On day one, the wool rope snapped. On day two, the hemp rope gave way, but the real test would be the third line.
Just when Breckan thought he was safe, a single hair inside the rope snapped and the entire thing unravelled. It turned out that of those maidens wasn’t quite as pure as she’d let on…
The Norwegian Prince was swept to his doom, but he wouldn’t be forgotten. From then on, the whirlpool that took his life would be known as the Corryvreckan – the Cauldron of Breckan!
It’s just one of many stories around the whirlpool. Another says that the Cailleach, Scotland’s creator deity, washes her plaid here every winter until it’s white as snow before spreading it across the mountaintops.
Barnhill – George Orwell’s Jura Home
As I briefly mentioned before, on this Jura hike, you’ll pass a picturesque white house called Barnhill. This was where the author George Orwill wrote his dystopian novel Nineteen Eighty-Four! With visiting Jura even more difficult in those days, he referred to the island as a very un-get-atable place.
It’s an incredibly peaceful spot, as far away from any hustle and bustle as it’s possible to be. Jura is quiet by Hebridean island standards and Barnhill is quiet by Jura’s standards. lt doesn’t get many people walking past its doors, the nearest neighbours are wild goats, otters and plenty of deer.
That doesn’t mean Orwell’s time here was entirely uneventful. On one boat trip out in the Gulf of Corryvreckan, he was almost sucked into the whirlpool. Losing the boat to the cauldron, Orwell and his son managed to swim to a rock and were left there until rescued by a passing lobster fisherman!
A Mad Dash Home From Jura
Not seeing the whirlpool was disappointing but the real lowlight of our trip was what happened next. We received a message to say our ferry the next day had been brought forward to 7am due to the coming storm. That’s the biggest problem with visiting somewhere like Jura in winter!
I don’t mind getting up early but our issue was that the first ferry back to Islay wasn’t until 8.30am. We didn’t really have any choice but to pack up our things and rush to get off Jura that night. As we drove along the road in the dark, the headlights picked out a strange sight. Dozens of deer were inexplicably wading in the shallows on the beach.
Arriving at the ferry from Jura is a wee bit complicated since there’s practically no signs. When you arrive, don’t park in from of the ramp or you’ll get in everybody’s way. Instead, queue up across the road from the wee building, pointing back the way you came. I hope you have a better crossing than we did, being tossed around in the pitch black in terror…
Should You Adventure In Jura In Winter?
After a windy night sleeping in the back of cars, we did safely make the ferry from Islay back to the mainland. It was a rushed end to a wild weekend adventure, so would I really recommend visiting Jura in winter? Absolutely.
It was a trip that I won’t forget in a hurry. The seemingly hundreds of stags that we witnessed running across the heather were still in full antler. Waves crashing against the cliffs as we walked were at their most powerful. The Jura whisky we sipped to keep us going was even more warming than usual.
I’ll need to return to the Isle of Jura and bring you a more complete guide to the island. There are still three Paps that need climbed, a gin distillery to sample and a Skull Cave to explore. Not to mention the rest of the menu at the Jura Hotel to get through!
If this trip to Jura has caught your interest, how about visiting the island on a Scotland’s Stories Tour?
Just click this link to make an enquiry and book your private driving tour today!
0 Comments