Why You Should Visit The Incredible Isle of Ulva

Chances are that most people have never heard of the incredible Isle of Ulva. At only five miles long and a couple miles wide, it’s one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Hebrides, found off the west coast of Mull. That doesn’t mean there’s no point visiting Ulva though, this little place has something special to offer.

Since 2018, Ulva has been entirely community owned, with a plan to grow the population from a low of five and encourage new business on the island! I’ll be honest with you up front, there’s not a lot of modern conveniences here. You won’t find any shops, tourist offices or public transport during your visit to Ulva. You will, however, find open spaces, beautiful scenery and roaming herds of Highland Cows.

If a trip to Ulva sounds like something you’d like to do with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!

Arriving From Mull On The Ulva Ferry

Arriving on Ulva from the Isle of Mull is a little bit different than most ferry crossings. In fact, lots of people visit the Isle of Ulva purely so that they can use this novel system. It involves a wooden board, a very attentive ferry master and foot passengers only!

First off, don’t make the mistake of lining up at the modern, metal pontoon. It’s the concrete slipway you want to aim for. As you approach, on the left hand side you’ll see the board complete with instructions. Simply slide the panel across to show the red square and in no time at all, the Ulva Ferry will be coming across to get you.

With a card machine at the other side to pay for your return ticket, it couldn’t be easier! Just be aware that as a one man business, the timetable is limited to certain days and hours. Currently it doesn’t run on Saturdays but you had best check out the Isle of Ulva Ferry Facebook here to be sure.

A Brief History Of Ulva

The Isle of Ulva might be small, but it has a mighty history. It was inhabited at least 7000 years ago and you’ll find slightly more modern Neolithic standing stones from around 1500BC. Once part of the Kingdom of Dalriada, the island’s name Ulva probably comes from the Old Norse for Wolf Island revealing its Viking heritage.

The island would eventually become home to Clan Macquarrie and its most famous son became known as the Father of Australia. Lachlan Macqaurie was born on the island in 1762, going on to become governor of New South Wales. He rose from relatively low beginnings, his father being a carpenter who was cousin to the clan chief.

The Macquarries sold the island in 1777 and while it saw a small boom due to the increase in demand for kelp, it sadly wasn’t to last. Over the last 200 years, the population dwindled until just five people remained, but fortunately these were ambitious residents. The community buyout has ensured that the Isle of Ulva is on the up and its most exciting chapter may still be ahead.

Step Into Sheila’s Cottage

The first thing you’ll be handed after leaving the Ulva Ferry is a booklet of walking trails. However, don’t head off to explore Ulva without visiting Sheila’s Cottage first! This is a traditional, albeit restored, blackhouse that was last lived in by Sheila MacFadyen in the 1950s. Don’t be too frightened by Sheila’s likeness sitting in her front room, she doesn’t bite.

As well as giving you an idea of the type of homes that once filled the island, the cottage acts as the Ulva heritage centre. There are dozens of stories to find inside about local characters. My favourite was Archibald MacArthur, famed personal piper to Ranald MacDonald in the early 1800s.

In 1806, after coming second in an Edinburgh piping competition, Archibald turned down the substantial prize money, offended that he hadn’t won. His pride was his downfall and as well as missing out on £20, he was banned from future events!

It’s said that Sheila was strongly encouraged to move over to Mull in her old age by the owner of Ulva House. She wasn’t seen as fit enough to look after the old blackhouse on her own. Soon after, Ulva House burned down which Sheila apparently saw as justice for forcing her out of her own home!

Ulva Walking Routes

As incredible as the Isle of Ulva is, you’re going to need to embrace walking to get the most out of it. There are several different routes, ranging from a short loop to hiking the length of the island. You can even visit a second island called Gometra over a little bridge. Don’t expect to see everything on one trip though, you’re just going to need to plan repeat visits to Ulva!

Take the Livingstone walk to visit the cottage where famous explorer David Livingstone’s grandparents lived. You can also explore Livingstone’s cave where ongoing excavations are uncovering life on Ulva over 7000 years ago.

Head around the Woodland Walk for a gentle couple of hours and enjoy the peace that only an island off an island can offer. Or for a longer route, you can explore the abandoned townships. These clumps of now isolated buildings are all that’s left of Ulva’s once busy community. It couldn’t have been easy to leave somewhere so beautiful.

The Grand Ulva House

A short distance inland from the ferry, you’ll come across the largest building on the island – Ulva House. This is a 1955 reconstruction after a devastating fire destroyed the older Ulva House, largely unaltered and architecturally significant. Its early predecessor was the seat of Clan MacQuarrie and was where the father of Australia grew up.

The big house is currently empty although still looked after by the community, with discussions ongoing about how to best make use of this asset. To the front of the house you’ll find a lovely, well-maintained garden. It’s a great option for anybody who is unable or unwilling to walk far from the ferry while visiting Ulva.

Attending Ulva Church

If you were looking for a Sunday service at Ulva Church then you’ll be disappointed. It might seem odd to visit a church now only used for community meetings and selling £1 books, but there’s a very good reason. This was built by Thomas Telford in 1828 to accommodate almost 600 people listening to a weekly Gaelic service.

That makes it a poignant reminder of how large the community of Ulva once was as well as a monument to what happened to them. Less than 20 years after Ulva Church was built, the entire island was purchased by Francis William Clarke. Soon, the profitable kelp industry collapsed and by 1881 most of the population had been cleared from their land.

Ulva’s residents dropped from around 600 to 53 souls in just a few decades. A familiar story across the Highlands and Islands, but on such a small island, that impact feels heavy.

Eating At The Ulva Boathouse

If you only need one reason to visit Ulva then this is it. Eating at the Ulva Boathouse was one of the highlights of my year and I’m already craving a return visit. It might be the only place to eat on the island, but even if that wasn’t the case, you’d not want to go anywhere else.

Run by Mark and Brendan, the Ulva Boathouse has quickly gained a reputation as a seafood highlight to rival Oban. We enjoyed fresh, local langoustine and smoked Tobermory trout, followed by a Scottish cheese platter. With another diner asking for step by step instructions on their focaccia process, it’s safe to say this isn’t purely a seafood spot.

Don’t leave your order until too late in the day though. With seafood this fresh, once it’s gone – it’s gone for good! If you’re after a lighter bite or have a sweet tooth then I’d personally recommend the sticky gingerbread.

Where To Stay On Ulva?

There are a few options for where to stay on Ulva, but one is better known than the rest. The wee island recently shot to public attention thanks to the BBC programme “Designing the Hebrides” and Cragaig Bothy. This Ulva bothy received a makeover by designer Banjo Beale and is available to hire for those looking for remote, basic holiday accommodation!

If Cragaig is full then you have another Ulva Bothy option or the House of Ardalum Hostel. The hostel offers single bed dorms and private rooms as well the chance to hire the entire place. For something completely different to stay on Ulva, how about a Mongolian Yurt?

Wild camping is always a low-cost option anywhere in Scotland, but remember to be a responsible tourist. That doesn’t just mean cleaning up after yourself, it also means contributing to the local community

Can I Move To Ulva?

In the five years since the Ulva community buyout, the island has already undergone a transformation. The population has increased to 11, abandoned properties have been restored and there’s now a tenant farmer managing the livestock. Tourists visiting Ulva are a vital source of income, but you might want to do more than just visit.

This isn’t your average town or village, it’s a big commitment to move to Ulva. New residents need to be the right kind of people, ready to contribute to the island’s regeneration and settle in for the long term. While there aren’t many spaces, jobs and homes do occasionally pop up for applications.

If you keep your eyes on the Ulva Community Facebook, then any new job or housing opportunities are posted there. Maybe you can move to Ulva and help this very special place with its next chapter!

If you enjoyed reading about the Isle of Ulva, then you might enjoy reading about the much larger island of Islay!

If a trip to Ulva sounds like something you’d like to do with an experienced guide, then send me a message now about booking a Scotland’s Stories tour!

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