Best Historical Things To Do In Moray Speyside
If you’re interested in Scottish heritage, beautiful coastlines, good food and local culture, there are plenty of amazing historical things to do in Moray Speyside. It’s not a huge region, but it packs a lot into a small area and doesn’t nearly get the recognition it deserves!
I’ve spent a lot of time here in the past, admiring historic castles, uncovering Pictish Stones and walking golden, sandy beaches. The Speyside area is already famous amongst whisky lovers, but there’s far more to discover on a trip to Moray Speyside than the bottom of a glass!
This post is part of a paid partnership with Visit Moray Speyside but all words and opinions are my own.
Where Is Moray Speyside?
Moray Speyside is found in Scotland’s northeast, tucked in to the east of Inverness and west of Aberdeenshire. It stretches right from the beaches of the Moray coast right to the Cairngorm mountains. There’s a number of large towns and pretty wee villages in the area, Elgin being the largest.
Top Things To Do In Moray Speyside
Visit The Historic Town of Forres
Of all the interesting places you’ll find while exploring Moray Speyside, there’s something very special about Forres. It’s an incredibly historic town and Molly and I were given a tour around some of the history hotspots by Forres Heritage. We started at the tolbooth, heart of the community for centuries, where talks are still held in the old courthouse on a regular basis.
The story of Forres goes back far further than this building though, shown by the towering Sueno’s Stone. It’s the tallest carved Pictish stone at 6.5m high, dated to the mid 800s to commemorate some unknown battle!
That’s just one stop on a tour of the town that included interesting local heritage like the “Witches Stone”. It’s said that during Scotland’s brutal witch hunting phase, accused locals were crammed into a spiked barrel and rolled down Cluny Hill. The stone is where one barrel came to rest and the victim subsequently burned.
If you’ve got a little energy, then it’s worth hiking to the top of that small hill to Nelson’s Tower. It was constructed to commemorate Admiral Horatio Nelson and his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Open daily from 2pm to 4pm, you know you can get inside if the Red Ensign is flying from the top!
Entry is by donation with funds helping keep it maintained and it’s dog friendly. Just make sure they’re able to manage all of the steps to the top! As you can see from the picture, the views across Forres and much of the Moray Coast are absolutely spectacular on a clear day.
Celebrate Grant Park’s Centenary
There’s no better way to finish a tour of Forres than a walk through Grant Park. This beautiful grassy space was gifted to the town 100 years ago by Sir Alexander Grant, the man who perfected McVitie’s Digestive Biscuits! He bought Forres House and tore down the 10ft walls around the private grounds.
The beautiful sunken gardens, kept pristine by Forres In Bloom, are where the house once stood. Grant Park has seen some momentous occasions, hosting the European Pipe Band Championships six times in a row!
A celebration of the Grant Park 100 Years is taking place on 24th August 2024!
Dive Into History At Duffus Castle
If you visit Moray Speyside then you have to take in a castle or two. There’s plenty to choose from but one of my favourites is Duffus Castle. It’s a 13th century stone motte and bailey, built on the site of an older wooden fortification. There aren’t many rooms to explore and half the place has tumbled down the hill, but it’s a very atmospheric spot.
History comes to life as you wander along the old stone road, through the once bustling bailey and up to the now ruined keep. The original castle was built by a man called Freskin who was the ancestor of both Clan Murray and Clan Sutherland!
A long time ago, this place would have been a hive of activity in one of Scotland’s most prosperous regions. The fields around Duffus are even said to be a haunt of the fairies. One laird of Duffus was whisked away by the wee folk to the cellar of the King of France…but that’s a story for another time.
It’s free to visit Duffus Castle and I’d highly recommend it as one of my favourite things to do in Moray Speyside. There’s even a great coffee and cake spot in the car park to keep you going!
Go Further Back At Burghead
Just a 10 minute drive brings you to an even older fortification, although you wouldn’t know it at first! Look past the 19th century streets of Burghead and you’ll find the remains of an ancient Pictish fort – the biggest ever built! It just goes to show how important Moray Speyside has been in Scottish history.
As the new village was being constructed, around 30 stones were uncovered with ornate bulls carved on them. Nobody knows exactly what they mean, but the Burghead Bulls were clearly important, possibly a cult or symbol of royalty!
You can learn more about the sheer size of this 3rd century fortification and its history at the Burghead Visitor Centre. You can also pick up the key for the Burghead Well, a mysterious pool with rock cut steps leading down into it…
If you think that Burghead sounds familiar and you’re not sure why, maybe it’s because of the Burning of the Clavie? It’s one of Scotland’s most impressive fire festivals, taking place on the 11th January every year. I went to experience it this year and as you can see in the video below, it’s well worth the trip!
Raise A Dram At The Glenlivet Distillery
I couldn’t miss out on having at least a dram or two while visiting Moray Speyside! Especially not when The Glenlivet are celebrating their 200th birthday this year…
There are a number of different experiences to book, from the original distillery tour to the more in depth “Reflection”. You’ll get to discover what it is that makes The Glenlivet special and sample a few of their many different drams. Don’t worry if you’re driving, takeaway packs are available!
Whisky is an important part of the history around Speyside, the sheer number of distilleries give that away. In 1824, Glenlivet was one of the first of the many illicit distillers to go legit and take advantage of more affordable licenses.
George Smith wasn’t popular among the other distillers for going straight though. He and his distillery were threatened so many times that he began travelling with a pair of loaded pistols to defend himself!
Even if you don’t book onto a tour, the visitor centre at Glenlivet is one of the most beautiful that I’ve ever seen. The bar are is open to taste some drams or even go modern and try a whisky cocktail!
Uncover The Inveravon Pictish Stones
Take a short detour off the main road and down a narrow, winding track to discover Inveravon Church. Suddenly, you’re met with a sense of peace and tranquility, like you’re completely removed from the modern world.
This wee spot is one of those places that feels far older than the 1800s building would have you believe. That feeling is well justified and the proof is hiding nearby!
The church has been rebuilt and replaced at least 3 times and a surprising discovery shows at least a 1300 year history. Under cover in a porch stand 3 early Pictish stones. They had originally been built into the boundary wall, so aren’t all in the best condition, but that doesn’t detract from them at all!
You’ll make out some of the traditional early Pictish symbols like a mirror & comb, crescent and v-rod. Slightly less common is the enormous bird that’s often said to be an eagle. The small stone in the alcove that looks like another bird’s head is actually part of a Pictish Beast!
Visit Moray Speyside’s Jewel – Elgin Cathedral
There’s no doubt that Elgin Cathedral is one of the most popular things to do in Moray Speyside. It’s one of the jewels in the region’s crown and it’s celebrating its 800th birthday this year! The Lantern of the North might be a ruin now, but it’s absolutely packed full of stories.
Established in 1224, it was one of Scotland’s largest and wealthiest church buildings. Another sign of Moray Speyside’s historical importance! It wasn’t immune to conflict though and was burned down in the 1300s by the Wolf of Badenoch. You can still see stone that was turned red by the flames…
Elgin Cathedral was rebuilt but eventually, after the Scottish reformation, it was no longer needed. The stained glass was smashed, lead stripped from the roof and the fine stone carvings left to crumble. Thankfully, lots of the carved stones survived and visitors to the cathedral can get up close to them, safely on display inside the remaining towers.
Amongst those historic carvings, effigies of bishops and Scotland’s tallest Gravestone, there’s a tiny room with a big story. An Elgin lady called Marjorie raised her son there 250 years ago, using an old stone sink as a crib. It’s an amazing tale of resilience in the face of great adversity and it had a very happy ending.
The boy was given a pauper’s place at the Grammar School, growing up to become Major General Andrew Anderson, making a fortune in the process. He left £70,000 to house and educate 50 children, giving them all the same chance in life that he’d been lucky enough to receive!
While there is an entrance fee to visit Elgin Cathedral, anybody with a Young Scot card gets into all Historic Scotland properties for just £1!
Dive Into Buckie Fishing & Heritage Centre
Visiting Moray Speyside heritage sites isn’t all about grand castles and cathedrals though. The rich fishing grounds of the Moray Firth has supported communities for centuries and their stories are just as fascinating.
The Buckie & District Fishing Heritage Centre is packed with information about those who risked their lives daily to provide for their families. Best of all, those tales of the sea came straight from the mouths of volunteers who lived it.
Marlene told me how generations of her female relations had been fishwives, including her mother & grandmother. Originally, these tough women had to carry their husbands out to their boats so they weren’t fishing all day with wet feet. The women would then gut and pack the fish before carry heavy baskets by foot around nearby towns to sell!
All the while, they had no idea if their men would be coming home. Even with a radio, Marlene’s father wasn’t technically allowed to put a message out on public radio waves, but the skippers would broadcast a secret code or a special whistle anyway to show they were safe.
There’s a wealth of local knowledge and interesting artefacts to discover in the heritage centre. It’s run entirely by volunteers who have endless passion for the area and I now consider it one of the essential things to do in Moray Speyside!
Enjoy The Cullen Skink Experience
Once you’ve learned about the people who caught the fish, it’s time to taste what they did with it! One of the many local delicacies is an amazing fish soup called Cullen Skink, a popular Scottish dish found on menus across the country. So I went to its birthplace to learn how its made with the The Cullen Skink Experience!
At the Seafield Arms, head chef Luke put me through my paces, creating the smoked haddock and potato cream soup in the kitchen. I’m pleased to say we had no kitchen accidents and it tasted as delicious as I’d hoped! It’s an important part of local culture and tying the heritage centre together with actually making the soup brings it all to life.
Anybody looking to enjoy the Cullen Skink Experience themselves should contact Liz Ashworth by email here – lizashworth@gmail.com
Before you leave Cullen, head to the heritage centre next door. Inside, you’ll find a showstopping model of Old Cullen, a village demolished by the Earl of Seafield around 200 years ago. The residents were all moved to the coast and only a few buildings like the old church remain!
Cross Craigellachie Bridge
One of Moray Speyside’s most iconic sites is the beautiful Craigellachie Bridge! Built by Thomas Telford 210 years ago, this distinctive cast iron design is now recognised as historically important. It’s slender metal arch crossing the River Spey shows that once upon a time, practical things could also be beautiful!
During the Great Flood of 1829, Telford’s design proved itself under duress. While lots of other bridges were swept away by the current, Craigellachie held strong and carried on being the main crossing point right up until the 1972!
Learn Weaving History At Knockando Woolmill
With all the sheep running about Moray Speyside, it’s no surprise weaving is a huge part of local heritage. Knockando Woolmill has been here since at least 1784 and is a rare example of a rural, district mill. A guided tour takes you through the mill’s history and every step of the process, from raw wool to finished cloth.
Local farmers brought their fleeces here to be spun, with the machinery becoming more complex as the industrial revolution advanced. The Victorian machinery is still in place, working away to create beautiful fabric the traditional way.
It’s like stepping back in time and Knockando’s survival depends on people visiting to learn about this amazing piece of Moray Speyside History. For those who like souvenirs, there are a whole range of woollen items to pick up while you’re there!
Enjoy A Moray Speyside Highland Games
Things don’t come much more Scottish than the Highland Games and fortunately, Moray Speyside has some great ones to enjoy. Molly and I visited the Gordon Castle Games and I was quickly tapping my feet to the large pipe bans performing throughout the day. The music doesn’t stop there, with solo piping competitions nearby highland dancers competing on the stage
Of course, everybody wants to watch the heavy events! From tossing the caber to putting the stone or throwing the heavy hammer, it’s an impressive display of strength. Centuries ago, it was a way of clans competing both amongst themselves and with their neighbours.
There’s more things to see at a Moray Speyside Highland Games than just music and sport though. You’re never short of delicious things to eat from the food stalls and you need that energy for exploring the market stalls. There’s classic cars and heritage tractors to admire and a main arena with displays like falconry or stunt bikes to keep you entertained!
As you can see, Highland Games are packed full of tradition and sporting competitions, but there’s something for everybody. They’re also very dog friendly!
There are still more Highland Games in Moray Speyside coming up, usually the same weekend every year:
Tomintoul & Strathavon – 20th July 2024
Aberlour Strathspey – 3rd August 2024
Where To Eat In Moray Speyside
It’s safe to say that I didn’t go hungry on my trip! Here were my favourite places to eat in Moray Speyside:
Cafe 1496 – Found in Forres near the Tolbooth, it was dog friendly with delicious food and great coffee. I was lucky that they had a Haggis Quesadilla on the specials!
Aberlour Hotel – Grab a bowl of championship winning Cullen Skink at the dog friendly Aberlour Hotel! They took the traditional smoked haddock, potato and cream soup and added a Black Pudding & bacon twist!
Seafield Arms Cullen – As I was making my own Cullen Skink in the kitchen, I got the chance to taste a few other delights in the Seafield Arms! It felt fancy inside, but a look at the menu showed very reasonable prices.
Bootleggers Hopeman – Although not dog friendly, I did enjoy a meal at Bootleggers. With an enviable position right on the seafront of Hopeman, it’s a popular local spot. The food comes out sharing style like a family dinner, so everybody can try a little bit of everything.
Crown & Anchor – A great traditional pub, full of locals at the bar and doing good pub food. Another dog friendly spot just a short walk from the sea in Findhorn!
Where To Stay In Moray Speyside
I spent my entire time in Moray Speyside staying at Mossyards Cottages and couldn’t recommend it highly enough! It wasn’t just dog tolerant, they were incredibly dog-friendly and Molly felt very welcome. Even if you don’t have your own pet, you might be lucky enough to meet the resident yellow lab!
There are two cottages to rent and even though you’re next door, it feels like you’re entirely on your own. Mossyards is surrounded by fields and countryside but just a short drive into Elgin, Forres, Lossiemouth or Burghead. It’s the perfect, comfortable location for a short stay while exploring Moray Speyside.
If this list of historic and cultural things to do in Moray Speyside has got you interested in finding out more, head to Visit Moray Speyside to start planning your own trip!
1 Comment
Claire Parks · June 26, 2024 at 2:47 pm
Such an incredible place! I am dying to see this cathedral and can’t stop thinking about the mother who somehow raised a child here…and a few remarkable child as well! She must have been a very strong and loving mother. This seems a great place to stay an entire week! Thank you for all the history and amazing pictures! It seems that sweet Molly was right at home and somehow knows how to be fetching in every photo….I loved seeing her here! Thank you again, Graeme. A real tour de force for our amusement and edification. I appreciate this and every post!