Visiting Shetland In Winter

I’ve wanted to explore Shetland for such a long time, but it takes a bit of effort to get there, so I knew I had to make any trip count. When Promote Shetland asked me about visiting Shetland in winter, I couldn’t believe my luck.

I’ll be honest, I had my concerns about miserable weather, lack of daylight hours and nothing actually being open. But after spending 5 days travelling all over Scotland’s most northerly islands in February, I’m a convert. It’s not the place to sun yourself on a lounger, but just like a visit to Orkney, that’s not why you’re coming to Shetland anyway!

Instead you’ll feel nature at it’s most awesome, explore ancient settlements without crowds and experience a unique island culture before settling down to enjoy exceptional local food, drink and stories. Those are just some of the reasons that visiting Shetland in winter is a good idea.

Where is Shetland?

Shetland is as far north in the UK as you can go, over 100 islands sitting far into the Northern Atlantic. At 60 degrees north, it has a unique history to explore with a combined Viking/Scottish heritage. You can either fly to Shetland or if you want access to your own car then take the Northlink Ferry from Aberdeen.

It’s an overnight trip but being able to just drive on and then wake up in Lerwick was ideal. Once you’ve arrived, don’t be afraid of using the inter-island ferries either. That’s the best way to experience everything that Shetland has to offer.

Arriving in Lerwick

Landing in Lerwick, I was full of anticipation for my first day in Shetland. Before I went anywhere though, I needed to fill my belly. Right by the harbour, I found the Peerie Shop Café and was soon stuffing my face with eggs on toast.

Then it was time to meet my guide for the day, Laurie Goodlad. This was the perfect way to start my trip, there aren’t many people who know more about visiting Shetland! While Laurie drove me around, I learned about history, culture and the benefits of visiting Shetland in winter. For example, this is when Shetland Ponies look their best!

St Ninian’s Isle

Our first stop was St Ninian’s Isle, available over a sandy causeway called a tombolo if you time it right. We were a little early so we couldn’t make it out to the island this time. Instead, we were treated to an incredible sight of waves crashing from both directions over the sand, meeting in the middle and then rolling down towards us like a watery zip.

St Ninian’s Isle is named after one of Scotland’s best loved saints and patron of the Shetland. During an archaeological dig in the 1958 a young boy found a cross marked slab. Underneath was a box containing a Pictish treasure horde from the 9^th Century, now in the National Museum in Edinburgh. The treasure was deliberately buried beneath the floor of an early chapel by somebody who never returned to reclaim it. Was this the moment Vikings arrived in Shetland?

Jarlshof

Of all the places in Shetland, our next stop was the one that blew me away. No matter what period of history interests you, Jarlshof has it covered. I was able to walk through 5000 years of Shetland habitation and see how life changed over time. These ancient stone walls were perfectly preserved throughout the centuries by tonnes of sand and turf.

In the late 1800s, a storm washed away part of the sandbank below Jarlshof and gave archaeologists a clue that something special was hiding beneath the ground. At that point the only known structure was the Medieval farmhouse named Jarlshof by Walter Scott.

As they dug down, they peeled away layers of time. Viking longhouses appeared, then late Iron Age wheelhouses and half a broch. Soon Bronze Age roundhouses were unearthed and finally at the very bottom, the scant remains of a simple Neolithic hut.

In the summer, the visitor centre is open but naturally this place is going to be busier. If you’re visiting Shetland in winter like me, then there’s a good chance you’ll have Jarlshof all to yourself. In the quiet, with only birds and waves to accompany your thoughts, it’s easy to travel back thousands of years.

Heading North Again

Just a short trip down the road from Jarlshof stands Sumburgh Head, the most southerly point on Shetland’s mainland. High up on the cliff you can stand next to the Stevenson built lighthouse and gaze south towards Fair Isle.

We still had one last stop of the day so time to head back north. I got chatting to the lovely people at Hoswick Visitor Centre over some local mackerel pate and salted beef bannocks. This isn’t simply a visitor centre though, it’s a community hub run by passionate locals.

They are more than happy to share knowledge of local heritage, stories and how to get the most out of your trip to Shetland. You’ll find year-round events here and everything combined allows the centre to stay open while other places might close off-season. This is a great place to stop in, even if it’s just for the excellent food.

Shetland Bus

The next day, I was in Scalloway in front of the Shetland Bus memorial. Not actually a bus, this was a top-secret operation for fuelling the Norwegian resistance during the war. Thousands had fled Norway in little fishing boats after the Nazis invaded in 1940, but many more were behind.

Young Norwegian fishermen who had landed in Shetland volunteered to be the link back to their homeland. Disguised in innocent looking fishing boats, they smuggled in weapons as well as agents to carry out sabotage. On the way back, they picked up more refugees to start a life in Shetland.

The brave sailors operated out of Scalloway during the long, dark Shetland winters. They might have been safer from enemy eyes, but these tiny vessels weren’t designed for the extreme North Atlantic winter. Sadly 44 of the volunteer crewmen lost their lives to storms or attack, their names marked on the memorial built out of stone from each of their hometowns.

Eventually, the Nazis were too suspicious of the fishing boats lurking around the shore so the Americans supplied small sub-chaser warships instead. The operation didn’t need to worry about stealth anymore. They soon carried out missions with such clockwork, it was just like a Shetland Bus to Norway.

Not a single life was lost after that, which just goes to show how dangerous those fishing boats really were. Poignant at any time of the year but after seeing what the weather can be like visiting Shetland in winter, I have extra respect for those sailors.

Smugglers Cave

Burra features one of the best little surprises in Shetland. Laurie had tipped me off about where to find Smugglers Cave and with a name like that, I couldn’t resist!

It’s not the easiest to find, but the hunt is part of the fun. I even stumbled upon a group of seals (or Selkies) enjoying the shaded side of the peninsula. Once you find the entrance, there’s a handy ladder down that took my substantial weight easily. Big enough to stand up in, the sound of the crashing waves are really amplified inside.

We don’t really know if Smuggler’s Cave was ever actually used for hiding illicit goods, but that’s what imaginations are for. Another theory is that boys used this to hide in when the press gang arrived. Thousands of men and boys were forced into service with the British Navy, so somewhere like this was perfect to lay low until they sailed off again.

Stanydale Temple

It took around 15 minutes to walk up to Stanydale Temple but once inside, I had travelled back 4000 years. We don’t know if it was ever actually used for worship or rituals but the name has stuck. It’s an unusual place since there were no burials inside like a tomb, but also no central hearth or collection of rubbish like a regular home.

The sheer size means that Stanydale must have been important. Your guess is just as good as mine but I was happy just to enjoy the beautiful stonework and imagine a peaceful life on this windswept hill.

Culswick Broch

The walk to Culswick Broch was one of my favourite activities and the perfect advert for visiting Shetland in winter. It’s around 2km out on a good path amongst high peat banks, past tiny lochs and the remains of settlements. The unmistakeable dome comes into view across a little causeway and then it’s just a short climb to the top.

This is where things got exciting though. The views from Culswick Broch are spectacular, with cliffs and sea stacks galore. I could watch the full power of the sea smashing against cliffs while the wind whistled past. All the while I had a 2000-year-old structure at my back.

Sure, some people like calm, sunny days. But if you want to experience mother nature at her best then walk up to Culswick Broch in February. I promise that’s something you won’t forget in a hurry.

Busta House Hotel

After a day embracing stormy weather, I was looking forward to sitting down to a few drams by a fire. I couldn’t have asked for a better spot than Busta House Hotel.

Busta House has stood since the 16th century although its most intriguing chapter took place in the 1700s. It was home to Thomas Gifford, his wife Lady Busta when they were struck by tragedy.

All four of the couple’s sons took a boat trip across the bay one night for drinks with friends. It was a regular trip for them and the evening was nice and calm. Somehow, they never made it home. The boat was found floating on its own and eventually, the body of the eldest son John was recovered.

The Giffords were now without a male heir. That’s when Lady Busta’s niece Barbara Pitcairn came forward claiming that she was carrying John’s child! Lady Busta wasn’t happy with the idea of being replaced as mistress of the house. She refused to acknowledge the pair had been secretly married but reluctantly allowed Barbara to stay and have her child at Busta.

Her son Gideon grew into a fine lad and Thomas Gifford soon made him heir to his entire estate. Lady Busta still hated Barbara though and when Gideon was 6, his mother was kicked out of the big house. The poor woman died in Lerwick 10 years later, having only ever seen her son one more time.

It’s said that Barbara’s ghost still wanders the rooms looking for her son. Thankfully, I was far too focused on the fresh Shetland seafood and enormous selection of whisky to notice any bumps in the night.

Travel to Unst

Day 3 saw me heading off the mainland and up to Unst the most northerly inhabited island in Shetland. It has the appropriate tagline “The island above all others”. I pre-booked my space on the ferry and it was really simple to just drive on and off again.

Keep your eyes open while you drive through Unst and you can’t miss the White Wife of Watlee. She’s often been seen wandering the area but has an even more terrifying habit. The White Wife has a tendency to appear in the passenger seat next to men driving alone.

The sculpture is terrifying if you pass it during the night. Even though it was daytime, I didn’t dare risk look in the seat next to me just in case….

Norwick Beach Clean

My first port of call on Unst was at Norwick to help with a beach clean-up organised by Saxavord Spaceport. You might not know that Unst is a proposed site for launching satellites into space! The island recently lost a large RAF base, so the locals I spoke to were looking forward to new faces.

The beach was beautiful, even on a mildly snowy day and with only the odd bit of fishing net to collect, the clean-up was over pretty quickly. Always happy to reward myself with food, I headed south to Victoria’s Vintage Tearooms. Here you’ll find great food, incredible cakes and a view worth fighting over a window table for.

Shetland Reel Distillery

Good thing I had lined my stomach because my next scheduled stop was at Shetland’s only distillery. Not whisky but Scotland’s other spirit – gin! I’ve been a fan of Shetland Reel Gin ever since I sampled some at a festival in Edinburgh, so this was a “reel” treat.

It’s a small operation with one man making all of the spirit, before bottling and labelling. Each version of Shetland Reel has a meaning to it and every bottle has a personal feel. Several samples later, it’s safe to say I was thoroughly enjoying my trip to Unst.

Wild Skies Shetland

Don’t worry, I wasn’t driving after the distillery visit. Instead, I was being shown around by Jane from Wild Skies Shetland who kindly made me dinner as well! Local food is front and centre here and after tasting the Shetland lamb and salmon, I could see why.

Once things were properly dark, I headed out with Jane and meteorite expert Fabien. Being so far north and with little light pollution, Unst is the perfect place to gaze at the sky. Unfortunately, I didn’t see the Northern Lights, missing them by just a few days but I’ve never seen the stars so clearly.

Visiting Shetland in the winter means long, dark nights and that’s just what you want when stargazing. The Wild Skies team have big plans in the pipeline but put simply, if you enjoy looking into the night sky then get yourself to Unst.

Muness Castle

Muness is the most northerly castle in the UK and a stark reminder of a nasty chapter in Shetland history. It was built in the 16th Century by a man called Laurence Bruce, the Sheriff of Shetland. Not a local but somebody who fled to Unst after causing a “disturbance” back in Perthshire.

Once set up in Unst, Laurence proceeded to run Shetland as his personal playground. He tampered with the official weights to increase taxes and helped himself to anything he fancied. Eventually, the Shetland landowners petitioned the crown to help but Laurence just blamed it on his boss Earl Robert Stewart.

After a slap on the wrist, he was sent back to Shetland but the Stewart Earls weren’t happy now. When Robert’s son Patrick took over, he turned out to be even more vile than the former Sheriff. Laurence knew he ws in danger so it’s no wonder he soon built Muness Castle. Patrick even attacked the small fortress in 1608 but his small army was called away at the last moment.

The castle is still in great condition, even thought the top floor has been used to build the surrounding wall. Free to enter with no key required, you’re almost guaranteed in the winter months to have Muness Castle to yourself! Just don’t forget to pick up a torch if you want to explore it fully.

Glansin Glass

Shetland has a great community of craftspeople and Glansin Glass is much more than just a shop. Surrounded by beautiful pieces of her own glassware, the owner Cheryl talked me through making my own glass coaster.

I’m not known for my artistic side but under her expert guidance I did my best. You can book a workshop like this and hopefully create something a little prettier than I achieved, or just browse Cheryl’s professionally made pieces!

Viking Unst

You just can’t escape Shetland’s Viking heritage although I’m not sure why you would even want to. There’s something special about Viking stories, so to be able to walk inside a replica longhouse and aboard a longship gave me goosebumps. I can imagine tales being told around the hearth inside the house and weapons lining the walls.

The ship is called Skidbladner and it’s nothing short of a work of art. It was actually built in Sweden and intended to sail to America but the crew got no further than Shetland! Exploring this and imagining what life was like for these iconic people is worth the ferry fare to Unst alone.

Up Helly Aa

I had to say goodbye to Unst and start my journey back to Lerwick for something extra special. Before long, I was standing outside the Lerwick Up Helly Aa galley shed. Unfortunately, this iconic festival has been cancelled the last 2 years due to Covid but taking place in January, this is the most common draw for people visiting Shetland in winter.

The festival has taken place since the late 19th century, after being brought in as a civilised way to celebrate during winter. Before this, locals were dragging burning tar barrels around the streets and causing more than a little trouble. Officials decided to take that pyromania and channel it into something safer.

Safer just happens to involve squads in full Viking style armour, with real swords and axes, marching through the streets before burning a replica longship. The Jarl leads Up Helly Aa and serves on the committee for 15 years before taking up the honour. He wears the traditional Jarl armour like those before him, but his selected squad have spent the years painstakingly making their own outfits.

The amount of time, money and pride that goes into them is astounding. They often feature a theme or character from one of the many Viking sagas along with lots of personal touches. From start to finish, Up Helly Aa lasts over 24 hours so I was told that the most important part is having comfortable shoes.

While thousands of people cram into Shetland to see Up Helly Aa every winter, it’s still a very local festival. This isn’t something just put on for tourists but an event that Shetlanders have real pride in. I will definitely be back to experience the full thing in the future.

Dinner @ No. 88

I managed to squeeze into No. 88 Lerwick for dinner on a busy Saturday night and I’m so glad I did. A map on my table showed me where the main ingredients in my dinner came from. Nothing was further than 6 miles away. I fully believe that food should be sustainable and that means eating local and eating seasonal. The freshly caught langoustine followed by beef with root vegetables has only convinced me further.

Exploring Lerwick

It was sadly the last day of my Shetland winter trip, but I still had time to cram in a little more. I stopped by the iconic Lodberrie to see what has now become known as Jimmy Perez’s house. The vastly popular BBC crime drama Shetland has made this beautiful little building famous. Even if you don’t watch the program, it’s a fascinating spot.

These houses were built as private piers to allow merchants to unload their wares directly into a warehouse. It also made things much easier for any smugglers doing their best to avoid declaring their wares. Tunnels lead under the street from some of these waterside doors, popping up further into the town.

Garths Croft – Bressay

Less than 10 minutes on the ferry, I was on Bressay and being picked up by Chris from Garths Croft. Chris is an archaeologist between the hours of 9-5 Monday to Friday, but a crofter the rest of the time. Like many others, I’m not sure I fully understood what crofting really entailed. It was just a word often thrown around when talking about the Highlands & Islands.

As somebody who came into this life as an outsider, Chris is a great person to explain crofting. He runs tours of Garths Croft and I would highly recommend a visit. I think we could have spent my entire 5 days chatting about everything from his beautiful heritage Shetland sheep to drystone walls and how he fits everything in around the dayjob.

Aside from the fascinating croft, Bressay has lots to offer and Chris is the man to tell you about it. Pictish stones, Viking longhouses, brochs, beautiful views and even enormous WWI gun emplacements. Bressay is so easy to get to that this should be an essential daytrip from Lerwick.

I Rest My Case

If you were worried about there being nothing to do when visiting Shetland in winter, then surely I’ve changed your mind. As you can see, I had a pretty packed schedule and still could have filled another 5 days! Many people will only come here during the long summer days but that just means busier roads, restaurants and ruins.

I loved being able to enjoy all of these fantastic places while barely seeing another soul. My trip coincided with the tail end of some freak storms but if anything that just enhanced the experience. Wrap up warm and watch the elements batter the landscape, safe in the knowledge that a cosy, well stocked bar and some fresh local food awaits you.

So, have I convinced you into a Shetland winter trip yet?

This article was part of a paid trip by Promote Shetland but all opinions are my own!

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