How To Find The Well Of The Seven Heads – Tobar nan Ceann
In the Scottish Highlands, a brutal historical episode is marked by a gory monument known as The Well of the Seven Heads or Tobar nan Ceann in Gaelic. Atop this tall obelisk on the banks of Loch Oich, a hand holds a dagger and seven decapitated heads.
Even without knowing the name, when you see something like that, you can tell there’s going to be a good story. The monument tells a tale of murder, betrayal and one man’s unwavering pursuit of justice for his kin. However, is this a stark reminder of brutal times or a noble memorial to Highland justice?
Here is how to find the Well of the Seven Heads for yourself and pay respects to an unbelievable story.
The Keppoch Murders
In 1663, Alexander and Ranald MacDonald of Keppoch, the young clan chief and his brother, were murdered by their cousins the MacDonalds of Inverlair. Like many 17th-century tales, there are different accounts of the Keppoch Murders taking place on the road or in the victim’s beds.
The pair had been educated in France so maybe they seemed a little too continental for the other Highlanders. Maybe it was just a simple struggle for control of a prominent branch of the clan. We’ll never know exactly where it took place or the reasons behind it, but we know how it ended.
Lord MacDonnell of Glengarry was responsible for dealing with crime in the area. If he had carried out his duty, then we would never have heard of the Well of the Seven Heads! However, he seemed unable or unwilling to punish the murderers. Both MacDonnell and the MacDonalds of Inverlair were hoping the incident would quietly blow over.
Iain Lom’s Revenge
Thankfully, one man refused to let the Keppoch Murders lie. The young chief’s uncle was the famous Gaelic bard Iain Lom MacDonald and he worked tirelessly to get justice. For two years, he petitioned the government and was eventually granted a Letter Of Fire & Sword. That gave him the right to seek revenge by whatever means necessary, without fear of reprisal.
With 50 men from the MacDonalds of Sleat, Iain hunted down the seven killers at Inverlair. There, he dealt out brutal Highland justice, but death wasn’t enough for him. Legend says that he cut the murderer’s heads off using the same dagger that had killed his clan chief. That’s not the end of the story though!
Iain held more than just the murderers responsible though, he felt that Lord MacDonnell should have done more to uphold the law. Time to make a statement and deliver the heads to Invergarry Castle. To make them more presentable, Iain washed them in what’s now known as the Well of the Seven Heads. I don’t have any record of MacDonnell’s face when the sack of heads was delivered…
Construction Of The Monument
The name Tobar nan Ceann or Well of the Seven Heads has stuck ever since Iain Lom’s exploits. The obelisk we see today was erected in 1812 directly above the natural spring. It was built by a descendant of Lord MacDonnell who clearly wanted to paint their ancestor in a better light.
The inscription, in English, Gaelic, French and Latin, reads:
“As a memorial of the ample and summary vengeance which in the swift course of feudal justice, inflicted by the orders of the Lord McDonnell and Aross, overtook the perpetrators of the foul murder of the Keppoch family, a branch of the powerful and illustrious clan, of which His Lordship was the chief. This monument is erected by Colonel McDonnell of Glengarry XVII. MacMhicAlaister his successor and representative in the year of our Lord 1812. The heads of the seven murderers were presented at the feet of the noble chief in Glengarry Castle, after having been washed in this spring: and ever since that event, which took place early in the sixteenth century, it has been known by the name of “Tobar-nan-Ceann”, or the Well of the Seven Heads.“
You might notice that there’s not even a mention of Iain Lom MacDonald!
It was around this time that an effort went in to proving the story was more than just a legend. A burial mound, said to be the resting place of the murderers, was opened up in Inverlair. Seven headless skeletons were found inside!
How To Find The Well Of The Seven Heads
You’ll find the Well of the Seven Heads across the busy A82 from a cafe that shares the same name. Be aware that it comes out of nowhere, slightly hidden by the trees. There’s a good sized layby to pull over but remember that this is a very busy road.
Once you’ve had a good look at the monument, take the stone steps on the left side down to loch level. There, you’ll find a short, dark tunnel that leads directly to the Tobar nan Ceann itself! Apparently there used to be a little ladle for drinking the spring water with but that’s long gone. I’m not sure if I’d be up for drinking it anyway knowing the story…
If you’re looking for other things to do near the Well, then have a look at the Jacobite History In Lochaber!
If you enjoyed the story of the Well of the Seven Heads, then you can find more like it in The Scotland’s Stories Book!
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